Is LGB 2046 DC or DCC?

[Airbuspilot]

Might I suggest the ZIMO MX696N non-sound decoder and LOKPL96KS screw terminal lok interface board, about €116 at Grootspoor.com. I think these will work together but not I'm sure. Perhaps one of the experienced ZIMO users out there (Greg?) will confirm. Or even the MX696KS sound decoder package for around €155 also at Grootspoor.com. You may even get the 17% VAT removed being in Cyprus.

Seems like you are hardly the neophyte you claim as to understanding CVs, etc. given your N scale experience and what you've already accomplished puttering around in G. A ZIMO decoder will give you a good chance to experiment with the ZIMO programming software. I don't believe you need to purchase the ZIMO programming module to use the software as you have the MX10. Again, perhaps an experienced ZIMO user can confirm.

Speaking from personal experience I found the ESU LokProgrammer very daunting at first. It took quite an effort to understand even basic operation. Principally because the english translation of the manual was not so good. It turned out to be pretty straight forward once I actually tried using the ESU programming software on a real decoder. It just required going back and forth to the manual. I'm hardly an expert now but I was able to actually load a custom sound on an ESU decoder after using the LokProgrammer a bit. You really can't break the decoder unless it is incorrectly wired in the first place. The decoder reset is your "get out of jail free" card.

Hi Phil

Again thanks for your advice, I have had several inputs from this and other sources and I think you and the others are correct regarding a sound board as a start. We haven't started the purchase process yet so I will think it over during the next few days, we meet again on Monday morning we can make a decision then. I would like to go the screw terminal route but a soldering iron isn't a problem if pushed.

At the very least you gave me the push I needed to try the conversion.

Robin

 

[Dan]

For the price of the Zimo 696 you can get the MX645P22 and have sound but no screw terminals. Also there is a 16 bit sound version MS450. These are single motor decoders with lots of features.

 

[phils2um]

I think I'd stick with a "2-motor" decoder for this loco. Take a look at a comparison of the motors in a 2046 type cog-loco on the left, compared to the typical LBG motor on the right. This loco is designed to haul itself and at least two 4-axle bogie wagons up grades reaching 25% (1 in 4). I'm sure this requires significantly more power (current) than the typical LGB single motor loco if pushed to the max.

 

[Airbuspilot]

I think I'd stick with a "2-motor" decoder for this loco. Take a look at a comparison of the motors in a 2046 type cog-loco on the left, compared to the typical LBG motor on the right. This loco is designed to haul itself and at least two 4-axle bogie wagons up grades reaching 25% (1 in 4). I'm sure this requires significantly more power (current) than the typical LGB single motor loco if pushed to the max.

View attachment 308618

My friend, who is the owner of our railway, is building a Swiss mountain in order to utilise the rack and pinion properly so I guess a load is to be expected.
Also I have been convinced to go for sound, with a rack and pinion it would be sacrilege not to hear it.
Robin

 

[phils2um]

MLGB did release a sound version a couple of years ago, No. 23461. So, they do have a sound project available that could probably be loaded on the No. 55029 retrofit sound decoder. This is highly unlikely to be based on the original though as these locos were retired long before model train sound decoders were conceived! The sounds could maybe be based on a Zugspitze Bahn loco or maybe the FO HGe 4/4 similar to the ESU sound project.

In any case I think I would recommend the ESU Loksound 5 XL with the FO HGe 4/4 sound project for your sound conversion. You might even get by with the LokSound 5 L which is rated for 3 amps continuous motor current. However it has less audio power (1.5 watts) and a smaller onboard keep-alive.

It's not clear in the exploded diagram for the 23461 how the speaker is mounted. Märklin Onlineshop. The diagram looks almost identical to that for the original 2046. My guess would be that MLGB modified the roof molding to mount the speaker under the square vents (dynamic brake?) at the rear of the roof. That's where I'd put the speaker knowing the model's construction.

Edited to correct LokPilot 5 L to LokSound 5 L

 

[dunnyrail]

MLGB did release a sound version a couple of years ago, No. 23461. So, they do have a sound project available that could probably be loaded on the No. 55029 retrofit sound decoder. This is highly unlikely to be based on the original though as these locos were retired long before model train sound decoders were conceived! The sounds could maybe be based on a Zugspitze Bahn loco or maybe the FO HGe 4/4 similar to the ESU sound project.

In any case I think I would recommend the ESU Loksound 5 XL with the FO HGe 4/4 sound project for your sound conversion.

It's not clear in the exploded diagram for the 23461 how the speaker is mounted. Märklin Onlineshop. The diagram looks almost identical to that for the original 2046. My guess would be that MLGB modified the roof molding to mount the speaker under the square vents (dynamic brake?) at the rear of the roof. That's where I'd put the speaker knowing the model's construction.

Well that has passed me by completely a programmable LGB sound decoder that you can add library or even your own sounds. Looks worth a look at.

Retrofit Sound Decoder | LGB Websites

Now 32 functions. Max. 10 amps total current. Improved coasting behavior. Volume of the sounds can be set individually. Calibration function for adapting m

www.lgb.com

 

[Andrew_au]

For smaller locos (single engine up to 1A), you can get away with the Zimo MS450 series. They are quite tiny, but easy enough to use if you (say) combine an MS450P22 with an ADAPLU board. I converted one of my locos using this and the other using an MS950. Worth noting that the Zimo large scale decoders come with built-in keepalive capacitors.

 

[Airbuspilot]

Yes, this is exactly how I wired mine. There are 3-conductor (green,brown, and white) cables that go to the front and rear lights. I don't recall which is which but one conductor is a common return, one feeds the lower right and the other feeds the lower left and upper center lights. The front and rear lower left and upper center light feeds go to the front and rear decoder light connections. Both front and rear lower right light feeds are tied together and I connected them to Aux1 which is configured to come on with the headlight function in both loco directions (Swiss lighting). I've got the single cab light hooked up to the decoder Aux2. The commons for all the lights go to the U+ decoder connection. Note that U+ is often labelled D+ or +24V on other brand decoders. The power pickup wire coming from the pantograph can be removed or its connector insulated so it can't short anything. It is no longer needed.

I thought about adding a light to the motor compartment but have not got around to it yet. This would be connected to another "reinforced" decoder output, Aux3 in my case.

I did do more disassembly beyond just removing the roof for the conversion. It just made getting at things easier. I only mentioned taking the roof off because it is an easy way to get a peek inside. Also note the underside of the roof is labelled with a "1" that goes towards the front.

You could use any decoder that can handle at least 3 amps motor current and at least 100 mA to the lights, Aux1 and Aux2. The hookup will be the same as shown in the LokPilot manual.

If you decide to remove the original analog board like I did be sure to remember to decrease the power output to the light, Aux1 and Aux2 decoder functions so you don't burn out the 5V bulbs. Set the dimming CVs to about 1/4 of the maximum allowable range. Another option is to replace the 5V bulbs with 19V or 24V bulbs so you don't have to worry about blowing them.

Hi Phil

I have a ZIMO MX 699 decoder and made the conversion as you suggested, which was really straight forward as you said. I have reprogrammed CV 1 to 21 for this Loco and it runs as expected. It is a sound decoder and makes sounds which I believe to be diesel but thats for another day, at least I have sound.

My problem is the lights. The bulbs are filament types and run on 5V, the decoder has a 5V pin so I should be able to run them from that. There are 3 wires as you say above, green, brown, and white but I don't understand the logic. The brown wire doesn't appear to do anything, if I put a +5v on the green and -v to the white all three lights come on. If I put a -5V on the Green and +v to the white only the one light comes on. The lights are on a board which I have not yet removed, from your description above it seems you may have removed the lighting board and or rewired it?

I assumed I could connect the front light to the +5V pin (green wire) and the front light pin (white wire) then same for the rear lights. Presumably this will make all lights work in forward / same in reverse but the single light will not work.

The only way I can see to make it work like you say above would be to rewire the lighting board, do you remember if this is what you did?

Robin