I've been planning the garden track . . .

Handsomerob

Handsomerob

Catching the fever
O.k. So I`ve been designing some possible layouts with AnyRail (track design software) and I think I might do this one, it would be a mountain style layout with various elevations and bridge work to make it visually appealing and will allow for a water feature that I`ve been wanting to add to the yard.

Let me know what you all think!

Possible1.jpg
 
I like the double figure eight, as it gives you the most milage in a limited space.
 
A nice scenic layout, good to sit and watch the trains go round. The only major addition I'd make is to add a passing loop down the long straight to the right of the plan, to allow you to park up a second train - especially if you're going to start with analogue DC power. Similarly a couple of sidings fitted in somewhere would be very useful both for storage of rolling stock during a running session, and to add "operating" interest.

Jon.
 
In due course, you might want to add sidings etc. But the main concept looks good. Pictures PLEASE as you progress.... ;D ;D ;D
 
That should work well. :D
A Siding would be good, as suggested above, and leave space for a loop and more sidings as time (and money) allow.
The gradients are workable but a bit on the steep side. Are you using R1s, (600mm radius) here
You could ease the gradient on the outer curve by extending the slope along the right side straight, allowing longer trains to run - albeit in one direction only.
If you add a couple of straights either side of the lower pond on the inner curve you can ease that gradient too.
Magic - look forward to seeing it grow.
 
And, which side will be your main viewing side?
probably best to have higher tracks towards the rear. i would suggest your plan is best viewed from the right. If your viewing from the left you could consider lifting the back straight higher and coming down slope more to the top of your diagram.
 
The larger loops are Piko R5 and th smaller loops are Piko R3, I`ll try to attach a picture that better positions the track.

track-more.jpg
 
Did my Info on the stainz 2010D help you
 
sparky230 said:
Did my Info on the stainz 2010D help you
Click to expand...
I think that info will be of use to all of us..
What is the reference book you are referring to?
 
There are 2 Main Reference books the Italian Lok book and the Greenburg Guide, The Greenburg guides are now out of print, but were a reference to the production of locos, sets, rolling stock, they werent always 100% right but a good start

I've also done research on the 50 odd Stainz I have as some of mine are not documented, As Lgb would build Stainz locos for customers as specials or promotions and often these were built up from anything that was lying about, I've got a Green No2 cab loco that has a early 1970's cab with round vent and early whistle but has late boiler, late cab glasses, late lamps and sitting on a sandwich mech chassis. So nothing in LGB History is black or white.
 
:o Not wishing to put the dampener on your thoughts, but, those two tracks come too close to each other on the lower right, and 4% grade is really going to limit your enjoyment of the layout as time goes on.

Just some honest advice. Good luck with your endeavours. 8)
 
I have been using Anyrail 5 to do my designs and with the Piko track sections that's how close they show the tracks, also I know the 4% slope is rough but to get the height in the space I needed to have some sever slopes. From what I read though 4% is in the acceptable range but far from the .8 - 1.8 %recommended slope.
 
A good way to experiment with slopes is to get a long board and put some track on it. Elevate one end to a know gradient and see what your loco can pull up it. play around with different gradient. Remember that the curved track will add to the resistance of the gradient as well.
 
I echo the comments noted here?

Tracks too close together where I have arrowed in red, but easily remedied by adding a straight where I have marked in yellow and moving the loop slightly to the left....
 

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I wouldn't worry too much about the closeness of the tracks on the computer-drawn plan - what the design program doesn't allow for is the fact that any layout of LGB (or Piko, or whatever) track is remarkably "flexible" until you actually fix it down - when you lay the track out, I'm sure you will just be able to gently shift the loop a couple of inches over so that you get enough clearance with the outside track...... ;)

The things that WILL fix the position of the track are bridges and the like, so make sure everything is aligned to your satisfaction before you install anything like that permanently.

Jon.
 
Zerogee said:
track is remarkably "flexible" until you actually fix it down

Jon.
Click to expand...

My track has been down for over ten years and hasn't been fixed down yet. The ballast holds it in pace.
 
Handsomerob said:
I have been using Anyrail 5 to do my designs and with the Piko track sections that's how close they show the tracks, also I know the 4% slope is rough but to get the height in the space I needed to have some sever slopes. From what I read though 4% is in the acceptable range but far from the .8 - 1.8 %recommended slope.
Click to expand...
Remember, that if you start from a slightly raised level, you can go down as well as up, thus halving your 4% grade :nod::nod:
 
Doesn't work on a spiral though, and that is what we have here - you sill need to clear the lower track by something a little over 8 inches.
 
stockers said:
Doesn't work on a spiral though, and that is what we have here - you sill need to clear the lower track by something a little over 8 inches.
Click to expand...
So, one of my better ideas blown out of the water :mad::mad::mad:

OK, so you need more room, gotta extend the garden I suppose - Stockers has good experience :rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
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