tramcar trev
all manner of mechanical apparatus...
Despite the heat work must go on?. It?s also a good excuse for a quenching Cider at the end of the day.
I have laid 99% of the guttering and have discovered that I will need to get more stone blocks to allow me to finish the Curbs i.e. the vertical bit behind the flat bit. I have loose laid a bit of curbing to inspire me to carry on. Also I have been playing around aka experimenting with filling in what will be eventually the road surface. It?s a flexible cement based render and I did try and follow the instructions and mixed it with water and tried toweling it on, WHAT AN EXERCISE!!!! Then it occurred to me that I should be using the ?Schmidt? technique, a method developed by Gunter Schmidt at the CCAE way back in the 70?s. Herr Schmidt consulted me re tile grouting (using the normal method is time consuming and no fun at all) and I explained the procedure mix the grout with water, then squeegee it into the gaps, wait till it is looking dryish then buff the tiles up?. Gunter said ?Ya zat is vat ze man said to do but I chust svept ze powder into ze joints and schprayed wasser on it??.. Hmmm thinks I?. So I was asked to give my opinion on the finished job and it was not good, it was superb!!! Just don?t try this method on vertical surfaces!
I tried doing this and success was not immediate as the dry render actually does not soak up the water, I tried again using some rinse aid as a ?wetting agent? and success was mine?.. I found it best to do the job in layers no more than 5mm thick other wise the water doesn?t seem to penetrate. This is really the easy way to do it as the first layer is just applied with the flour sifter over dampened substrate then sprayed with the water mix and allowed to set, but not dry. The topcoat is then applied and finished of with a dry plastering trowel and can be worked and tweaked while dry then misted with water?.
Fiberglass mesh tape has been applied over the joints in the Hardie Panel substrate so hopefully the finished road will not crack along the joint lines, the bitumen paint and sand should disguise any hairline cracks, if it does end up looking like the F3 I?ll simply erect a few signs saying that the cracking is due to mine subsidence?. Of course real roads of the period did not crack or split up as they were actually paved with wooden blocks and then bitumen was sprayed over the top of that simply to give the steel ?tires? on horse drawn vehicles some traction, imagine how slippery hardwood end grain and steel wagon tires would be with some rain as a lubricant?..
A picture or 8 is worth a 100 words. Note the profiled scraper to remove a small wedge of ?road? on the outside of the rail. This is to prevent the road becoming higher than the rail after the coat of bitumen paint and grey sand. The gutter stones were protected by masking tape?.. Between the rails will be paved with 'setts', Oh Joy Oh rapture....
I have laid 99% of the guttering and have discovered that I will need to get more stone blocks to allow me to finish the Curbs i.e. the vertical bit behind the flat bit. I have loose laid a bit of curbing to inspire me to carry on. Also I have been playing around aka experimenting with filling in what will be eventually the road surface. It?s a flexible cement based render and I did try and follow the instructions and mixed it with water and tried toweling it on, WHAT AN EXERCISE!!!! Then it occurred to me that I should be using the ?Schmidt? technique, a method developed by Gunter Schmidt at the CCAE way back in the 70?s. Herr Schmidt consulted me re tile grouting (using the normal method is time consuming and no fun at all) and I explained the procedure mix the grout with water, then squeegee it into the gaps, wait till it is looking dryish then buff the tiles up?. Gunter said ?Ya zat is vat ze man said to do but I chust svept ze powder into ze joints and schprayed wasser on it??.. Hmmm thinks I?. So I was asked to give my opinion on the finished job and it was not good, it was superb!!! Just don?t try this method on vertical surfaces!
I tried doing this and success was not immediate as the dry render actually does not soak up the water, I tried again using some rinse aid as a ?wetting agent? and success was mine?.. I found it best to do the job in layers no more than 5mm thick other wise the water doesn?t seem to penetrate. This is really the easy way to do it as the first layer is just applied with the flour sifter over dampened substrate then sprayed with the water mix and allowed to set, but not dry. The topcoat is then applied and finished of with a dry plastering trowel and can be worked and tweaked while dry then misted with water?.
Fiberglass mesh tape has been applied over the joints in the Hardie Panel substrate so hopefully the finished road will not crack along the joint lines, the bitumen paint and sand should disguise any hairline cracks, if it does end up looking like the F3 I?ll simply erect a few signs saying that the cracking is due to mine subsidence?. Of course real roads of the period did not crack or split up as they were actually paved with wooden blocks and then bitumen was sprayed over the top of that simply to give the steel ?tires? on horse drawn vehicles some traction, imagine how slippery hardwood end grain and steel wagon tires would be with some rain as a lubricant?..
A picture or 8 is worth a 100 words. Note the profiled scraper to remove a small wedge of ?road? on the outside of the rail. This is to prevent the road becoming higher than the rail after the coat of bitumen paint and grey sand. The gutter stones were protected by masking tape?.. Between the rails will be paved with 'setts', Oh Joy Oh rapture....
