Lgb 10560 Uncoupler Track

idlemarvel

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I am thinking of getting an LGB 10560 automatic uncoupler track. My experience with OO scale uncouplers is that you need a length of straight track before and after the uncoupler so that the coupling hooks are central between the tracks. Is that the case with g-scale or is it more forgiving? I want to place it just after an R1 or possible R2 curve. If anyone who has one of these can offer any practical experience I would be grateful. Thanks, Dave
 
I should add that the LGB manual for 10560 shows them in position immediately before and after an R1 curve (see extract below), but I would still prefer if someone could confirm.
uncoupler.jpg
 
If your rolling stock has a hook and loop at each end, then I think you will also need a manual uncoupler to uncouple both hooks.
 
Both right, but the LGB 10560 electric uncoupler comes built into its own short section of track, if you use LGB (and pretty well anyone else with the same system) stock fitted with a hook at one end only then it isn't a problem. However if like me and a lot of others who fit hooks to both ends of their stock to avoid accidental uncoupling of the train, then you need to fit an LGB 10520 mechanical uncoupler immediately before or after the electric uncoupler in order to lift both hooks at the same time and that only fits into straight track.
 
Both right, but the LGB 10560 electric uncoupler comes built into its own short section of track, if you use LGB (and pretty well anyone else with the same system) stock fitted with a hook at one end only then it isn't a problem. However if like me and a lot of others who fit hooks to both ends of their stock to avoid accidental uncoupling of the train, then you need to fit an LGB 10520 mechanical uncoupler immediately before or after the electric uncoupler in order to lift both hooks at the same time and that only fits into straight track.
I concur....
 
Is your railway outdoors ? I tried these uncouplers a few years ago. Got tired of having to get the grit and other foreign matter out of the mechanism every time I wanted to run trains, which is pretty much every day in garden railroading season.
 
Thanks Dan but no these are for a small indoor layout I'm planning to while away the winter hours. I don't attempt any uncoupling outdoors, even manual.
 
I recently visited the Garden Railway in Werinigerode. There the Automatic Operation relies on the LGB Auto Uncoupler probably 10520. They have at least 4 in place to ensure correct uncoupling but presumably to allow for different Stock etc. When I saw it running, the loco came to its Auto Stop and uncoupling with 2 Hooks worked to perfection. First time I have ever seen it work at all. I guess with the Harz 2-10-2 involved they had tested Auto Stop Location and placed Uncoupler appropriately.

Just as an aside I recently bought a WHR Battery Funkey with just LGB Loops that lift using a Servo at each end. As all my stock has Hooks at both ends this is my normal mode, have to say it works very well and is great for a Train that you just need to Run Round at the end of a Trip. Also good as a Banking Engine as it can Uncouple when the Train has reached the Summit and drop back down the Bank.
JonD
 
If you are only going to run a small number of different locos on the indoor layout, Dave, have you considered equipping those that you will use with Massoth powered uncouplers? Not the cheapest solution by a long way, BUT it has the big advantage that you can uncouple when and where ever you wish, rather than just at fixed points on the layout....?

Jon.
 
Thanks Jon, I had thought about that, problem as you hint at is the cost. One track uncoupler will work with any number of locos, whereas each loco would need a massoth decoupler. But worth considering.
 
Thanks Dan but no these are for a small indoor layout I'm planning to while away the winter hours. I don't attempt any uncoupling outdoors, even manual.

After i gave up on the auto-uncouplers, I made a stick with a credit card sized piece of metal on the end. It works better than any other method I have tried, including my pseudo duo loco that I cobbled together from an LGB Kof and the uncoupling mechanism from a real Duo uncoupling loco.
 
For "Hand of God" manual uncoupling, I use what is referred to in these 'ere parts as a "GizTool" (because it was Gizzy from this forum who came up with this particular design) - it is simply a long plastic plant label blagged from a garden centre, the kind that they write their prices on, with the big flat sign part cut away and the end trimmed down - the particular version here is my modified version of it, the "GizTool 2.0" if you like, with a little more shaping to the business end. Apologies for the terrible photos, I took them some time ago in poor light with insufficient flash - but I think they still show the principles!

Works in exactly the same way as the "credit card on a stick" method - insert flat end between the two coupler loops, gently push down and twist at the same time - depresses single or double hooks and gently separates the wagons.....

GizTool in use.jpg

GizTool use.2.jpg
GizTool length.jpg

GizTools.jpg

Last pic shows GizTool 1.0 which has simply had the label bit cut off, and the 2.0 version with the cunningly shaped tip.....

The pointed bit on the other end is very useful at shows for poking annoying rivet counters, errant children and anything else that gets in the way.... :devil:


Jon.
 
The pointed bit on the other end is very useful at shows for poking annoying rivet counters, errant children
and anything else that gets in the way.... :devil:

And for picking up pies without getting your fingers greasy.....

David
 
I got an LGB auto-uncoupler and tried it with my stock. It seems to work very well.


For the recoupling I found that it does help to have some straight track before and after the uncoupler otherwise the hook can miss the loop and cause derailment of the rolling stock being pushed. Or at least if not straight track at least not R1 curves.

I also found that if you leave the uncoupler in the up position the dropped hook can catch hard in one direction, hard enough to stop a loco attempting to move the rolling stock right to left. See picture. Is this deliberate design or do I need to make some adjustment to the hook? It doesn't apply in the other direction.

2016-04-26 16.48.56.jpg
 
That hook in your photo is a very old-style one, Dave - that must be a VERY old LGB wagon.... those hooks were only used in the 60s/70s (not sure exactly when they changed, I'm sure someone will tell us), if you look at any more recent piece of LGB stock you will see that the hook now has a rounded end rather than the sharp triangular "point", which should mean that the situation in your pic cannot occur - indeed this may well be one of the reasons they changed the hook profile!
Unfortunately if you have early rolling stock with the old type hook, you can't easily change it for the more modern type without changing the whole bogie units (which you can do, of course, but it will cost a few quid per wagon), as the way the hook mounts is completely different.

Jon.
 
Unfortunately if you have early rolling stock with the old type hook, you can't easily change it for the more modern type without changing the whole bogie units (which you can do, of course, but it will cost a few quid per wagon), as the way the hook mounts is completely different.

Jon.
I've had to do this with quite a few of my older wagons and coaches, especially as I like to have hooks on both loops. Along with fitting metal wheels it's worth doing IMO....
 
That hook in your photo is a very old-style one, Dave - that must be a VERY old LGB wagon.... those hooks were only used in the 60s/70s (not sure exactly when they changed, I'm sure someone will tell us)
Thanks Jon, but it's actually a new LGB 4063 OBB wagon. At least it was bought as new from grootspoor last month! But I take your point, the designs are different on other wagons.
 
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