LGB 20140 Feldbahn steam engine

Gavin Sowry said:
I found that the big problem was the LGB points themselves. Often, the rail leading off from the back of the frog is not dead level, and what happens is that when the rear wheel is on the dead frog, the front wheel does not make contact with the rail, hence the stall.
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Yes I have experienced the same. I'm still trying to figure out what causes this... All rail parts on my points do have power, but this 'wobbling' or height difference in tracks sometimes causes an engine to stop running, especially at low speeds. And my track is CERTAINLY level!!! I spend utmost attention while laying the base for the track and while installing the track, even used a level to make sure!

But then, operating my line last sunday everything ran flawless. It was big fun!
 
I have it, too, with my 0-4-0 Playmobil locos but not on all points. In some cases I have resorted to gently sanding down the top of the plastic insulation on the points concerned as, watching the loco go over the points slowly, that seems to be the problem area.
 
Running at shows I like my trains to run smoothly. The biggest problem I found was the plastic frog on the R1points were too high lifting the complete loco off the track. A drastic attack with a file on the offending plastic to bring it down to brass track level sorted the problem out.
 
dutchelm said:
Running at shows I like my trains to run smoothly. The biggest problem I found was the plastic frog on the R1points were too high lifting the complete loco off the track. A drastic attack with a file on the offending plastic to bring it down to brass track level sorted the problem out.
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Which is a much clearer explanation of what I wrote in post 23 above, although I was able to solve the problem less drastically. ("Frog" was the word I was looking for.)
 
I have found the flange-way in some plastic frogs is not deep enough for the flanges.. This causes the loco to lift, and wobble, as there is also greater side-play..
 
PhilP said:
I have found the flange-way in some plastic frogs is not deep enough for the flanges.. This causes the loco to lift, and wobble, as there is also greater side-play..
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For deepening flangeways, same tool, flat file. Just use the edge.
 
Just lay it dead flat. the frog does seem to move upwards if laid loose in gravel.
 
I've ground out flangeways to cure this problem, with moderate success. The real problem is the rail itself, it is often not level with respect to the opposite running rail, thereby introducing what is known as twist. Now, of course, the Feldbahn stuff has no compensation (axles that rock and roll to cater for track irregularities). I have ballasted my way out of it, and it is a good indication that 'tamping' is required when something hiccups on the frog.
 
Zerogee said:
That is certainly an unusual one, Henri - either a repainted one-off or maybe a very short run of a special livery.... as you've spotted, a lot of the pipework that is normally bright plated on these is black on yours, and I've never seen that particular cab-side logo before (I googled "Lokomotivfabrik Drewitz" and it appears to be O&K's Berlin works, so the logo seems to be accurate).

Once again, like with your old Stainz and Elias, you seem to have accidentally acquired a rarity! ;)

Jon.
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Hello to all....

Just found on ebay.de the same locomotive for sell.... if someone is interested... the article nº is 222326794973

It finishes in 1 hour.....

Good Luck,

Sergio
 
So what is the difference between the old motors and the new ones on these locos ?
 
Not sure about the actual motor Dan but the gear mechanism is quite different and a lot stronger now.
The old mech. drove on one axle only and this was connected to the other with a toothed belt. The gear and belt where both prone to failure and perceived wisdom was not to overload them
 
Madman said:
So what is the difference between the old motors and the new ones on these locos ?
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Dan,
This pic shows (on left) an old-type Feldbahn mechanism (very stripped-down), and at right the new type.... you can see that the motors are quite different in shape (old type has flattened casing, new one is cylindrical and slightly shorter, so I don't think they are interchangeable). The new-type mechanism still only has direct motor drive to the rear axle, but it replaces the old rubber belt transmission with a new longitudinal driveshaft with bevel gears at each end, to transmit the drive to the front axle.
Interestingly, the new type motor is stamped "Maerklin" rather than Buhler, but it may well still be a Buhler-made unit....?

As far as I am aware, the entire power unit/chassis from a new type loco is a direct swap for the old type, even though the individual parts may not be.
Do note that the apparent size difference in the photo (eg: when looking at the cylinders) is entirely due to perspective - the stripped-down chassis is lying on the box-lid but the new version is a complete inverted loco, thus the working parts are much nearer the camera!

Feldbahn chassis.JPG

Jon.
 
Key issue here is, will the new motor fit the old chassis ? If not, are the old motors still available ?

My original Buhler motor is very tired (I actually have to bench run it to warm it up before it goes OK on the track). Some places are advertising motors, but, now you can't be sure if they are the right ones.
 
Gavin Sowry said:
Key issue here is, will the new motor fit the old chassis ? If not, are the old motors still available ?

My original Buhler motor is very tired (I actually have to bench run it to warm it up before it goes OK on the track). Some places are advertising motors, but, now you can't be sure if they are the right ones.
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Gavin,
Some time back in this or the Mad Forum there was a very good article on Servicing Buhler Motors. Sounds like yours may benefit from that process. As Bench Warming before running could indicate a build up of all sorts of horrors in the Motor.

Perhaps someone can Bookmark the link for Gavin.
JonD
 
Gavin Sowry said:
Key issue here is, will the new motor fit the old chassis ? If not, are the old motors still available ?

My original Buhler motor is very tired (I actually have to bench run it to warm it up before it goes OK on the track). Some places are advertising motors, but, now you can't be sure if they are the right ones.
Click to expand...


The old motors are still available, the belt also.

Motor: http://www.gardenrailoutlet.co.uk/lgb-motor-type-62209-light-railway-locos
Belt: http://www.gardenrailoutlet.co.uk/drive-belt

Let me know if you want me to quote you for shipping.
 
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Gavin Sowry said:
Key issue here is, will the new motor fit the old chassis ? If not, are the old motors still available ?

My original Buhler motor is very tired (I actually have to bench run it to warm it up before it goes OK on the track). Some places are advertising motors, but, now you can't be sure if they are the right ones.
Click to expand...

If a potential supplier shows a photo of the motor they're selling, then the difference will be obvious so you shouldn't get the wrong type. If the motor case has "flats" top and bottom, it is an old type, if completely cylindrical it is the new one.
I'm pretty sure that the new motor will not fit the old mechanism, at least not without some conversion work - for one thing, the old motor has its contact tabs at the same end as the output shaft, while the new motor is a more "conventional" layout with the terminals at the back end - hence the new type chassis has extended contact bars to carry the power to the back of the motor.

Jon.
 
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