LGB 23390 RhB Bernina Railcar ABE4/4 33 in green

[Monty]

Thanks guys, I will look in the reprogramming angle further now as my initial advice was that it wouldn’t stick. The switch is as stated above, positions 1, 2 & 3 all the same, daft is the polite term, I would use something stronger....
On the same page under the Functions heading is a comment that ‘Volume can be changed for the sound effects’. On page 11 under the heading ‘Analogue Operation’ in the last line it says ‘The built in sound functions come from the factory inactive for analogue operation’ Typically vague and confused but will pursue further as above.
21390 has a volume control in the cab roof evidently but only on the digital model, not the other one. Why you would do that I wouldn’t know, sounds overly complicated. But I am discovering that is somewhat normal.
Thank you all for your comments.
Will post more if I find an answer

 

[phils2um]

I fully agree opening one of these up can be a challenge. Getting it back together is even worse. Here are some things I learned when adding sound and some additional passengers to a 21393.

1. The benches like to come loose. Especially in the first class compartment. The tabs holding them in place are not tight fitting. I had to use some built up double sided tape to keep them in place.

2. Make sure you put the body's compartment dividers and windows back correctly if you happen to remove them. The windows can be put in upside down and all will seem right but the body will not go back on the chassis. Don't force it. The knobs on windows should be at the top of the body.

3. Be careful with and note the routing of the headlight wires at the four corners of the chassis on disassembly and re-assembly. It is easy to get them pinched between the body and chassis on re-assembly. I used tweezers to tease them into their proper routing.

4. Speaking of wiring, be careful not to pinch the decoder and speaker wires by the compartment dividers, body shell and chassis when re-assembling. I made sure they were gingerly stuffed into the decoder compartment using tweezers before screwing the chassis to the body.

5. I used tabs of painter's tape to hold the sliding doors in place and in the open position in the body shell. This made it easy to assure they aligned with their retaining slots in the body and chassis on re-assembly.

6. If everything is in the correct position the chassis will easily mate to the body on re-assembly. Check again for pinched wires and check the doors if the chassis isn't completely seated.

Phil S.

 

[mike]

If you can get the volume altered by someone with a DCC system, by adjusting the relevant CV, then that should stay changed for DC operation too. Do you have contact with any other local G scalers, one of whom might have a suitable DCC system and be willing to help you make the adjustment?
It is unusual for an LGB sound-equipped loco not to have some sort of manual volume control, for exactly the reason you need it - easy adjustment when running on DC - very often they are quite well hidden (eg: under water tank fillers on steam locos), are you sure your railcar hasn't got one concealed somewhere?

Jon.

Not on all newer lgb marklin sound equided locos...none fitted to the green and cream bernia or green one...nor the E10...or the cheaper mfx sound equied locos...marklin cutting cost to save pennys? Or adding sound for pennys?

 

[Monty]

Success at last. Thanks Phil S for extra clues and to all the others for the previous comments. I managed to get a switch fitted as per picture below, added some more passengers and didn’t have any bits left over.