LGB ICE gears and additional motor

Steven.T

Steven.T

16mm Scale NG
Hi guys, couple of questions about the LGB ICE train...
Firstly, one of the gears has stripped in the original bogie, anyone know if these are replaceable?
Also, I've bought and fitted the additional motor unit (lgb 66095). Now, this motor spins the wrong way. Like the polarity is wrong. When the front and original motor block is going forwards, this extra one tries to go backwards. I can't see any way to sort this short of butchery to reverse the motor polarity, any ideas?
Many thanks....
Steven
 
Steven,

The motor blocks are standard and the gear, wheels and axle assemblies are common to many other locos like the schoema Diesel etc. Modelland.de is a good source. The wheel/axles/gear assemblies just drop out and in once the bottom keeper plate is removed.

The backward running thing is weird! My guess is that at some time one of your motor blocks either has the connections between the wheels and the motor the wrong way round, or one motor has been rotated through 180 degrees. However I am not sure if motor rotation is possible without some butchery? I need to check.

My soloution is to find out which motor block is running correctly and then swap the wires over on the other one: On the top of the motor, in a recession there are four pegs - the outer two are from the picks ups and the inner two lead to the motor. Normally the connection is from the nearest pick up peg to the nearest motor peg. Swapping this relationship to the further peg will help.

As an alternative rolling the motor over 180 degrees will also acheieve the same, but this will involve taking the whole thing apart. I seem to recall that there is a spigot that should prevent it being put in the wrong way round - hence the suspicion of butchery. It has been ages since I have one in bits though.

Good luck.

James
 
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When I had my one of these (since disposed of) I arranger wiring through the unit to the sevond motor uniit, converting to run on either Battery on Track Power via a DPDT Switch. I think that the other Motor Unit was rewired during this process. It is entirely possible that gears may have been stripped due to the uneveness of working when the bogies are not connected IE one may stall and the other keeps working thus potentially damaging gear trains. I am sure that many will be saying that they have run in this fasion for years with no problems. But remember all LGB Double Motored Locs Motors are connected.

As for replacement Gears, they will be a standard set up and ought to be availabke from perhaps Glendale Junction, GRS, Champex Linden and others.
JonD
 
There may well be a 'collar' on the motor with a peg on it.. This will stop you just turning the motor over..

?? thought these blocks were very simple, so you could just turn the whole block 180 degrees and screw it back in??
A l-o-n-g time since I did one of these..
 
PhilP said:
?? thought these blocks were very simple, so you could just turn the whole block 180 degrees and screw it back in??
A l-o-n-g time since I did one of these..
Click to expand...
Sorry Phil you are thinking DCC, on 2 Rail Block will still run the same way!
JonD
 
dunnyrail said:
Sorry Phil you are thinking DCC, on 2 Rail Block will still run the same way!
JonD
Click to expand...

?? On DC, if you turn the block round, the pickup (and motor) connections will swap polarity, so the motor will run the other way??
 
dunnyrail said:
When I had my one of these (since disposed of) I arranger wiring through the unit to the sevond motor uniit, converting to run on either Battery on Track Power via a DPDT Switch. I think that the other Motor Unit was rewired during this process. It is entirely possible that gears may have been stripped due to the uneveness of working when the bogies are not connected IE one may stall and the other keeps working thus potentially damaging gear trains. I am sure that many will be saying that they have run in this fasion for years with no problems. But remember all LGB Double Motored Locs Motors are connected.

As for replacement Gears, they will be a standard set up and ought to be availabke from perhaps Glendale Junction, GRS, Champex Linden and others.
JonD
Click to expand...

Jon,

I agree with you there. My twin motor ICE has an umbilical, from one motor to the other, just as you describe. I have added similar connections to my Playmobil 2-4-0, my Bachmann Brassworks Fairlie (which also need the policarity reversing) and my kit Built K1 Garratt. It gives smoother running and causes less stress on the gears.

James
 
PhilP said:
?? On DC, if you turn the block round, the pickup (and motor) connections will swap polarity, so the motor will run the other way??
Click to expand...
No sorry Phil, the Motor is not polarity dependant. My usual way of describing DCC to older heads is to make the comparison between 2 Rail and the old Hornby 3 Rail.

2 Rail Loco running Chimney First IE Moving to the Right.
Pick the Loco up and Turn it round it will now run Tender or Bunker First, but still to the Right.

3 Rail Loco running Chimney First IE Moving to the Right.
Pick the Loco up and Turn it round it will now still run Chimney First now heading to the Left. The same is true with DCC

In both of these examples the controller is not changed in any way.
JonD
 
Sure we are all getting in a mess here..
I know what I mean, but it depends on whether we are talking DC or DCC for a start.. (which was not clear from the original post). I did say DC.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. I'll take a look on that LGB website for the spare gears, I had a google but couldn't find any spare lists! I'll give modelland a try aswell, thanks!

As for the motor running the wrong way, We are running normal DC. I have tried unclipping the whole motor block and turning it through 180 deg, still get the same fault. The original ICE motor block has all pre-done connections, theres no wiring as such its all done through like bus bars inside the block if you like. To be honest I had a look inside the extra motor block, but I can't rember what it was like under the cover, I think the outer two went to the pick ups, I'll have to strip it down and double check.
 
Did your new additional motor block come with a little wiring loom (all black cables) with a lamp bulb and four separate push-on spade connectors?

Jon.
 
Steven.T said:
Hi Jon, it did come with them yes. I put them on and the light seems to work ok?
Click to expand...

In that case you should be able to very easily reverse the motor direction (for a given track polarity) by simply swapping over the two INNER connectors, by doing this you are reversing the DC polarity to the motor.... actually you could equally well swap the two outer ones, the result would be exactly the same, just don't do both or you're back where you started.... ;)

Jon.
 
Well, I'd have never guessed that! So does that mean it wont run at all without the lights wired in? Good job I put them in, I might have been sending it back for not working at all! :D
 
Steven.T said:
Well, I'd have never guessed that! So does that mean it wont run at all without the lights wired in? Good job I put them in, I might have been sending it back for not working at all! :D
Click to expand...

Yep - a standard LGB motor block with the 4 pin connections won't run at all unless each outer pin is connected to its corresponding inner pin; this is because a 4-pin gearbox is DCC-ready (as indicated by the embossed "D" on the bottom plate of the unit) therefore the power feeds (the outer pins) are isolated from the motor connections (inner pins) so that you can fit a DCC decoder without having to go inside the gearbox and re-wire stuff.
Whenever I want to test a motor block on its own, I usually just bridge across each pair of pins with a croc clip, or of course you can just keep a couple of short loops of wire with a connector spade on each end specifically for this purpose. I will hold my hand up and say that I've forgotten this myself more than once, putting a motor block on the test rollers and thinking "why won't the bl**dy thing run?!" before having the "D'oh" moment and realising I haven't bridged the connector pins..... ;)

Jon.
 
Are the lights directional? If so then I reckon the following: if the lights are working as expected compared to the other end but the motor goes the wrong way then need to swap the motor connections. If the lights are also wrong then swap the track connections but leave the motor connections as-is.

I made my own LED lighting when I DCC'd my ICE, and ran a cable through the entire rake to run the lights from a single decoder (only one motor bogie)
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