LGB new to this DCC help?

walkerart said:
Hi Craig,

Thanks for getting back so quick.
Yes I’m in Cheshire uk and that’s my loco. I know it’s crap in LGB world but it’s a great start base to make my mistakes.

Brilliant advise on the cable I will try the repair first as shown it today I did think I bet that’s able to open and re plug. My loco is with a chap but I suspect his a little older on these subjects but lovely chap.

Great info on the 55021 plug in but Walton may dels have sadly closed down so no link.
Also I read that this decoder doesn’t support sound which I may like to add later.?

Feel free to call 07768068563 if it makes it easier but I am in the dark as to which way to go as now we have control from iPhones etc
But with the MTS I managed to get for £100 I may as well give it a go so long as the decoder then will transfer in use to another command station.... if that makes sense?

Thanks Chris
Click to expand...
Welcome to the forum all of the advice you have been getting is good stuff and if you follow it you should have no issues. As for your DCC system it is clearly a Parallel system which whilst somewhat out of date is ideal for where you are as a beginner. If you but any more handsets or controllers look for that ‘P’ sticker. Sound can be added to your loco as is with an ‘LGB Sound Box USA sound’ whilst not the best of things they do have pretty good sound cost around £180 but you may get a second hand one cheeper.

A bit of helpful advice, please do not post your phone number in the open forum. If you wish to use phone conversation click on the users name to the left then ‘start chat’ which keeps things between you and the named person. I have deleted your number from the post for you.
 
walkerart said:
What is SPROG .? Sorry

Also I was told about Sound traxx being very good to come neroli from your phone..... is this something that negates the MTS system?
And does it also work with any decoder I eventually get in my little loco ?
Click to expand...
Sprogs are a Marmite sort of thing. You can carry out limited Cv updates with a P Loco Remote the one on the right of your picture with the Right Left arrows instead of the control knob. Tis a bit tricky, you should only have 1 loco in the track when you do it as all locomotives on the track would be updated at the same time, you will hear talk of ‘Programming Track’ and this can be wired separately if you have the right system available, a sprog would likely need this.

But carry on as you are for a while till you get more competent with what you have, so easy to spend big and dive in deep to get very lost and confused.

You asked about powering buildings from the track, best to use a separate 12v transformer one if those just plug in mains variable things will do adequately so long as it is not drawing too much power. LED lights are very low in power needs but may need resisters to get the voltage correct but if you can supply the correct voltage via that transformer no problem.
www.switchelectronics.co.uk

1A Variable Voltage 3-12V Plugtop Power Supply 3-Pin UK 12WDefault Title

12W plugtop power supply featuring a variable voltage output from 3V to 12V. The power supply features a 1.2m cable length and is terminated with a range of DC plugs. The power supply is suitable for a wide range of applications including lighting, equipment, appliances, CCTV and various others...
www.switchelectronics.co.uk www.switchelectronics.co.uk
 
pugwash said:
Sorry, I missed that bit. The plugs are not specific to garden model railways so a general search should find them. Wait until @PhilP wanders along, he might be able to point you towards a source in the UK.
Click to expand...
That’s great … if I can get a point to the right decoder will be great.
I see another chap was saying the MTS has running problems eek… does that apply if I’m only running two locos with lights and two turnouts ( as the yanks say)
I wouldn’t be against selling this MTS on if there is a better way to go… just don’t really want to spend £1000 just for the control bit? I’m not tight or am I
 
Paul M said:
Welcome to the forum, a bit more advice, beware of the humour
Click to expand...
Thanks Paul… it’s great so far only my first day but getting some great points in from clever folk… as I have been a bit lost with so many options to go for.
Had hopped my local rail shop would know but he is also a bit confused as he’s not a digital dude.
 
craigwrdouglas2 said:
Hi I assume this is the loco and that you live in the UK.

View attachment 341315


Hello and welcome - on the 2 points:

1 cable - you may be able to repair this if you pop the connector apart, cut the wire straight and recrimp
otherwise you can get a replacement here:
champex-linden.de

Verbindungskabel Flachstecker, 5-polig, 2 Stück

Fertig konfektionierte Verbindungskabel (5-polig) mit Flachsteckern und Kabel. Passende Steckdosen (CL60043) sind separat erhältlich. 2 Stück im…
champex-linden.de champex-linden.de

View attachment 341317


2 The direct decoder interface logo doesn't mean 6 pin because there are 6 dots it's not an NEM 651- you just plug in the decoder board into the sockets - it only fits one way, then you can either tie up the wires if there is room or cut them off.


1742081535547.png



The guide below is for the stainz, but shows the 55021 decoder being plugged in on top of the board and suggestions for the dips if you have them in your loco, though your manual may provide better guidance on those.

WaltonsModels.co.uk
Click to expand...
Hi happy Easter, sorry what does decoder GND mean?
Sorry for what must seem as basic questions I will get there.

Such a shame Walton models has closed they were to be my next port of call as it’s only about five miles away.
 
walkerart said:
That’s great … if I can get a point to the right decoder will be great.
I see another chap was saying the MTS has running problems eek… does that apply if I’m only running two locos with lights and two turnouts ( as the yanks say)
I wouldn’t be against selling this MTS on if there is a better way to go… just don’t really want to spend £1000 just for the control bit? I’m not tight or am I
Click to expand...
Hey pugwash is there an app for this forum so I don’t have to go via my log in to see your advice.
Oh and happy Easter
 
craigwrdouglas2 said:
Hi I assume this is the loco and that you live in the UK.

View attachment 341315


Hello and welcome - on the 2 points:

1 cable - you may be able to repair this if you pop the connector apart, cut the wire straight and recrimp
otherwise you can get a replacement here:
champex-linden.de

Verbindungskabel Flachstecker, 5-polig, 2 Stück

Fertig konfektionierte Verbindungskabel (5-polig) mit Flachsteckern und Kabel. Passende Steckdosen (CL60043) sind separat erhältlich. 2 Stück im…
champex-linden.de champex-linden.de

View attachment 341317


2 The direct decoder interface logo doesn't mean 6 pin because there are 6 dots it's not an NEM 651- you just plug in the decoder board into the sockets - it only fits one way, then you can either tie up the wires if there is room or cut them off.


1742081535547.png



The guide below is for the stainz, but shows the 55021 decoder being plugged in on top of the board and suggestions for the dips if you have them in your loco, though your manual may provide better guidance on those.

WaltonsModels.co.uk
Click to expand...
Oh also what are dips please?
 
Software Tools said:
That is a bit better, but they will still have all the other MTS2 limitations.
Click to expand...
Hi Mr Tools,
Ok well “p” is good what are the type of limitations you mean?
I sort of feel if can get going with the right decoder I will learn.
Once I find out from one of you chaps which decoder will it work on a iPhone type device if I then upgrade ?
 
walkerart said:
Hi happy Easter, sorry what does decoder GND mean?
Click to expand...
GND= Ground=Earth
walkerart said:
Hey pugwash is there an app for this forum so I don’t have to go via my log in to see your advice.
Click to expand...
Administrator

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Goto the web site on a browser on your phone and click the menu icon (burger bar)
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walkerart said:
The site you sent is in German do I order from them or find a uk supplier?
Click to expand...
There are several German and German speaking members who can help with translation. Note that not all German suppliers will post to the UK anymore so check their P&P section first.
 
walkerart said:
Oh also what are dips please?
Click to expand...
Dip Switches, they are very small switches on circuit boards that need to be turned OFF when a chip is added. In your second picture at the top can be seen some red switches at the top of the picture, they are the dips which if you look will be set to on.
 
dunnyrail said:
Sprogs are a Marmite sort of thing. You can carry out limited Cv updates with a P Loco Remote the one on the right of your picture with the Right Left arrows instead of the control knob. Tis a bit tricky, you should only have 1 loco in the track when you do it as all locomotives on the track would be updated at the same time, you will hear talk of ‘Programming Track’ and this can be wired separately if you have the right system available, a sprog would likely need this.

But carry on as you are for a while till you get more competent with what you have, so easy to spend big and dive in deep to get very lost and confused.

You asked about powering buildings from the track, best to use a separate 12v transformer one if those just plug in mains variable things will do adequately so long as it is not drawing too much power. LED lights are very low in power needs but may need resisters to get the voltage correct but if you can supply the correct voltage via that transformer no problem.
www.switchelectronics.co.uk

1A Variable Voltage 3-12V Plugtop Power Supply 3-Pin UK 12WDefault Title

12W plugtop power supply featuring a variable voltage output from 3V to 12V. The power supply features a 1.2m cable length and is terminated with a range of DC plugs. The power supply is suitable for a wide range of applications including lighting, equipment, appliances, CCTV and various others...
www.switchelectronics.co.uk www.switchelectronics.co.uk
Click to expand...
Hi Dunny
Happy Easter.
This is a great response I agree to just give this MTS a go and learn or as you say you can spend big and go down the rabbit hole.
I suppose I can program the loco if it’s on its own on the track. As I only have one at the moment that will be the case
My question is when I get told the best decoder for my cheap o loco…. Will that decoder still work when I upgrade the control thing?
I’m excited about SoundTraxx as you can run items from your iPad … not sure what it costs but will look as I do want to use my current old MTS and at some point upgrade.

I’m already lost and confused
But these guys are teaching me lots.

Lights to buildings you sent a transformer link that can vary power so that’s great. I will be using LED as it’s versatile. So I’m guessing it will have to be switch plug on job as opposed to a digital thing. But that’s ok.
If I have to wire in resistors that will at this point be a little beyond my skill set but I’m willing to learn.
Hope you are having a lovely day suns out. Maybe running your trains with a glass of something
Chris
 
walkerart said:
That’s interesting.
So being me... no decoders in ... bought the MTS for only £100... if I go SoundTraxx is that much more than getting the right decoder for my first loco?
With SoundTraxx does that give the sound at the same time,..as the tender on my loco requires the sound to be added.

Sorry dumb questions I’m just wanting to take the right path from the get go.

In terms of my end goal I only need two locos, would love the carriage lights the loco lights and tail red lamps to stayon even when it stops and if possible the sound of the bell as it pulls in to the station cowboy steal....

But I can live without it as I have been told sound units may be £250.....

Also random question....I am aiming at recreating the film 3 :10 to Yuma,..so building the station and Indian teepees.

Found a company called Schlich that make the right scale figures for G in terms of cowboys etc.

But if I needed to feed lights in the station or the Indian camp can I, or should I feed from the track and could I do this from a point controller you know the one that does x4 turnouts / points.?

Just want some LED lights on buildings when the trains going.



Sorry it’s late I’m so interested in this to get it right.

Thanks
Chris
Click to expand...

I'm not sure I fully understand the question

If you get a soundtraxx decoder and fit it and a speaker and connect the mts central and transformer you should then be able to operate the loco with your phone. you may also be able to operate it with the mts2 controller, but you'll need to check this with soundtraxx, You'll also need to check that whatever sound chip you go for has a suitable sound profile for your locomotive. I don't know Soundtraxx chips or their costs, so you'll need to find a suitable dealer. also you'll need to disconnect any other sound system if present.

Train lights and tail lights can stay on all the time with any digital system - even if you go with the Bluetooth loco decoders you'll still need something to power the track e.g. your mts system.

You could take power from the track or run a separate power bus for your buildings. The transformer is 5.5A and more than enough for 2 trains.

If you want to switch the lights on buildings on and off with the controller then the Massoth point decoder (8156101 Switch Decoder 4K II – Massoth Elektronik GmbH ) will do that, but there is probably better options including chopping up a cheap set of Christmas tree lights which will probably come with some light pattern options.

Schleich figures are nice but the cost would add up.
have a look at 2.5 or 3 inch plastic figure sets like these ones
they'd probably need either repainting or at least a coat of antishine varnish, but would be a relatively cheap source of parts that you can customise.
 
dunnyrail said:
Welcome to the forum all of the advice you have been getting is good stuff and if you follow it you should have no issues. As for your DCC system it is clearly a Parallel system which whilst somewhat out of date is ideal for where you are as a beginner. If you but any more handsets or controllers look for that ‘P’ sticker. Sound can be added to your loco as is with an ‘LGB Sound Box USA sound’ whilst not the best of things they do have pretty good sound cost around £180 but you may get a second hand one cheeper.

A bit of helpful advice, please do not post your phone number in the open forum. If you wish to use phone conversation click on the users name to the left then ‘start chat’ which keeps things between you and the named person. I have deleted your number from the post for you.
Click to expand...
Thanks Craig rookie mistake
 
craigwrdouglas2 said:
I'm not sure I fully understand the question

If you get a soundtraxx decoder and fit it and a speaker and connect the mts central and transformer you should then be able to operate the loco with your phone. you may also be able to operate it with the mts2 controller, but you'll need to check this with soundtraxx, You'll also need to check that whatever sound chip you go for has a suitable sound profile for your locomotive. I don't know Soundtraxx chips or their costs, so you'll need to find a suitable dealer. also you'll need to disconnect any other sound system if present.

Train lights and tail lights can stay on all the time with any digital system - even if you go with the Bluetooth loco decoders you'll still need something to power the track e.g. your mts system.

You could take power from the track or run a separate power bus for your buildings. The transformer is 5.5A and more than enough for 2 trains.

If you want to switch the lights on buildings on and off with the controller then the Massoth point decoder (8156101 Switch Decoder 4K II – Massoth Elektronik GmbH ) will do that, but there is probably better options including chopping up a cheap set of Christmas tree lights which will probably come with some light pattern options.

Schleich figures are nice but the cost would add up.
have a look at 2.5 or 3 inch plastic figure sets like these ones
they'd probably need either repainting or at least a coat of antishine varnish, but would be a relatively cheap source of parts that you can customise.
Click to expand...
I already have a fair few figures by Schleich and yes they aren’t cheap but they are 75mm high so good for scale… thanks for the link I will try and find a size.

Another chap sent a link re a seperate transformer you can vary power on for the buildings once I jump the railway herdal
 
walkerart said:
That’s great … if I can get a point to the right decoder will be great.
I see another chap was saying the MTS has running problems eek… does that apply if I’m only running two locos with lights and two turnouts ( as the yanks say)
I wouldn’t be against selling this MTS on if there is a better way to go… just don’t really want to spend £1000 just for the control bit? I’m not tight or am I
Click to expand...

on the MTS2 problems, it can do either:
14 speed steps and a 23 locomotives limit numbered 0-22 with 0 being the analogue locomotive.
or
128 speed steps, long locomotive addresses (up to 9999) but directional lighting doesn't work.

As far as I as I can see you planning to have 2 locomotives and the one that you do have doesn't have lights, so it probably won't affect you much if at all.
 
A further option might be a Hornby HM7000 decoder.

pros would be that it's Bluetooth and easy to change the sound profile through the Hornby App , it's a 1A-1.5A decoder so it will drive a single motor LGB loco just fine and Hornby are widely supported in the UK.

Hornby have started to create sound profiles for international locomotives, the first of which is due Q2 2025, for an Italian E656, but Rivarossi also do some US outline steam and of course a Big Boy sound profile in LGB starter set locomotive would likely be epic :sunglasses:

Downside would be that you may need to go with a UK sound profile for the short-medium term, compatibility between Hornby and lgb would need to be checked or you could just use the 4A/15V power pack that Hornby provide and plug it straight into the track and set aside the MTS system.

I would add that I've only used the HM7000 decoder in TT so there may be scaleup issues that I haven't seen.
 
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