(LGB point motors and switches) Didnt know where to post this...so....
- Thread starter steves
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minimans
Trains, Planes, Automobiles & Shooting
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idnt know where to post this...so....
Blimey if it makes things easier I'll sell you a good used box for $35.00 + shipping at $30 priority mail from the peoples republic of California.................................Then all you need is a small A/C transformer (starter set transformers are good) and your good to go..................
idnt know where to post this...so....Blimey if it makes things easier I'll sell you a good used box for $35.00 + shipping at $30 priority mail from the peoples republic of California.................................Then all you need is a small A/C transformer (starter set transformers are good) and your good to go..................
korm kormsen
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the whole point of using AC instead of DC is to protect the expensive turnoutmotors.
the switchbox is nearly empty inside.
if you use a cheap rockerswitch (like those used for opening and closing car windows) and two diodes (one forward and one backward at the out connections of that rockerswitch), you have copied the LGB switchbox at a fraction of the price.
both, the original and the copy will give you an "intermittend" DC current, that can't burn the turnout motors.
the most expensive part (and i strongly recommend to use it!) would be a used LGB-transformer from a starterpack.
(the black and the white connectors are 16V AC. white goes to the rockerswitch, black goes to the turnout. staying with LGB-colours, orange is connected BEHIND THE DIODES to BOTH outlets of the rockerswitch and goes to the turnout.)
as you don't need permanent current, one small transformer can be used for dozens of turnouts.
but do not hook more than two (at the most three) turnoutmotors on one rockerswitch. (if too many, some might not switch over the whole way)
edit: i know, i am the only one so far to recommend AC, but the difference what you need to use the safer AC are just two diodes. (if you would use a starter powerpack anyhow)
idnt know where to post this...so....the whole point of using AC instead of DC is to protect the expensive turnoutmotors.
the switchbox is nearly empty inside.
if you use a cheap rockerswitch (like those used for opening and closing car windows) and two diodes (one forward and one backward at the out connections of that rockerswitch), you have copied the LGB switchbox at a fraction of the price.
both, the original and the copy will give you an "intermittend" DC current, that can't burn the turnout motors.
the most expensive part (and i strongly recommend to use it!) would be a used LGB-transformer from a starterpack.
(the black and the white connectors are 16V AC. white goes to the rockerswitch, black goes to the turnout. staying with LGB-colours, orange is connected BEHIND THE DIODES to BOTH outlets of the rockerswitch and goes to the turnout.)
as you don't need permanent current, one small transformer can be used for dozens of turnouts.
but do not hook more than two (at the most three) turnoutmotors on one rockerswitch. (if too many, some might not switch over the whole way)
edit: i know, i am the only one so far to recommend AC, but the difference what you need to use the safer AC are just two diodes. (if you would use a starter powerpack anyhow)
Reidnt know where to post this...so....
Steve
When i started to mess with electric points i had a hard
time getting my head round it too.
A very kind old chap lent me an LGb switch box and a Playmobile
power pack 12v i think, we wired the box to the Playmo AC out let
and It worked fine
I have since picked up 2 Playmobile power units, one of E-bay
£12.75 + £3p&p The other at a show for £10,
I have also obtained (second hand) 5 LGb switch boxes from
various source and the most expensive was £25, cheapest £3 (but no lid)
So not to expensive compared to burning out a motor at £15-£20
a piece.
With the 5 switch boxes i easily run 16 sets of points and a couple
of electric uncouplers using one power pack (but only change one point
at a time)
The switch boxes are also water proof so can be left out side
The only problem and i think its due to the low 12v supply is a far set
of points if not used for a few weeks can be a bit stiff at first.
idnt know where to post this...so....Steve
When i started to mess with electric points i had a hard
time getting my head round it too.
A very kind old chap lent me an LGb switch box and a Playmobile
power pack 12v i think, we wired the box to the Playmo AC out let
and It worked fine
I have since picked up 2 Playmobile power units, one of E-bay
£12.75 + £3p&p The other at a show for £10,
I have also obtained (second hand) 5 LGb switch boxes from
various source and the most expensive was £25, cheapest £3 (but no lid)
So not to expensive compared to burning out a motor at £15-£20
a piece.
With the 5 switch boxes i easily run 16 sets of points and a couple
of electric uncouplers using one power pack (but only change one point
at a time)
The switch boxes are also water proof so can be left out side
The only problem and i think its due to the low 12v supply is a far set
of points if not used for a few weeks can be a bit stiff at first.
Eaglecliff
Registered
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Of course, in the US they seem to be very keen on using compressed air to change points...
idnt know where to post this...so....Of course, in the US they seem to be very keen on using compressed air to change points...
Neil Robinson
Registered
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The electric pencil method, as mentioned in the link below may be worth consideration.
http://www.gscalecentral.net/m65994
idnt know where to post this...so....The electric pencil method, as mentioned in the link below may be worth consideration.
http://www.gscalecentral.net/m65994
Madman
Registered
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I must agree with those that have pointed out the case for using AC power. At first, like Rob S. I had a very difficult time understanding how the EPL System operated. Then one day, in an epiphany, it came to me. Forget about everything you think you know about simple electricity. In other words, Black to Black, White to White and Payday is Friday. I picked up the book, "The World of LGB". From that time on, the EPL System has made good sense to me. My locos are equpped with switching magnets that trip turnout positions and operate signals. If a loco happens to stop over a 17100 track contact (reed switch) you will not burn the switch drive motors out.
Whom ever invented the EPL System certainly made life alot easier and stress free for the garden railway hobbiest.
idnt know where to post this...so....I must agree with those that have pointed out the case for using AC power. At first, like Rob S. I had a very difficult time understanding how the EPL System operated. Then one day, in an epiphany, it came to me. Forget about everything you think you know about simple electricity. In other words, Black to Black, White to White and Payday is Friday. I picked up the book, "The World of LGB". From that time on, the EPL System has made good sense to me. My locos are equpped with switching magnets that trip turnout positions and operate signals. If a loco happens to stop over a 17100 track contact (reed switch) you will not burn the switch drive motors out.
Whom ever invented the EPL System certainly made life alot easier and stress free for the garden railway hobbiest.
korm kormsen
Registered
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for those, who are interested, i have a copy of that book online.
it is a .pdf, so easy to download.
on my site (link in the signature) scroll down, it is the last link on the left side, called "copy of lgb manual".
idnt know where to post this...so....Madman said:
for those, who are interested, i have a copy of that book online.
it is a .pdf, so easy to download.
on my site (link in the signature) scroll down, it is the last link on the left side, called "copy of lgb manual".
bobg
Registered
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Underneath the dotted line Steve
http://kormsen.info/ < Link To Korm's Southern & Gulf RR
idnt know where to post this...so....Underneath the dotted line Steve
http://kormsen.info/ < Link To Korm's Southern & Gulf RR
Reidnt know where to post this...so....
it would appear that if you are accidentally in "mobile" mode you do not see the signiture. Just changed to "normal" mode and alas, i can now see the site below the dotted line, before, there was no dotted line let alone anything below it, lol
idnt know where to post this...so....it would appear that if you are accidentally in "mobile" mode you do not see the signiture. Just changed to "normal" mode and alas, i can now see the site below the dotted line, before, there was no dotted line let alone anything below it, lol
Hi Steves,
Just had a look on GRS website, and they have a second hand LGB transformer LGB No, 51080 18Volt A/C £15-00. I have been using one of these for about 10 years, wired up as in Neil`s diagram. I have 11 point motors working from it. I live in Cambridgeshire. Send me a PM if you want to contact.
Cheers.
Just had a look on GRS website, and they have a second hand LGB transformer LGB No, 51080 18Volt A/C £15-00. I have been using one of these for about 10 years, wired up as in Neil`s diagram. I have 11 point motors working from it. I live in Cambridgeshire. Send me a PM if you want to contact.
Cheers.
peterexmouth
Registered
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Just to make things a bit clearer, the 2 contact LGB point motor operates on DC. If you have a 12 to 18 volt dc supply or battery and connect it to the point motor it will move to one position (if it is not already there). If you reverse the supply it will go to the other position. You only need a momentary contact to make this happen. If you leave the supply connected to the point motor, then it will get hot and not like that very much, but up to about 20 seconds won't hurt. The motor has a resistance of about 22 ohms, so if you operate it with 15 volts you are heating it with 10 watts. The dc supply can be obtained from half wave or fullwave rectified AC , or a battery, and the current drawn will be about 0.7 amps.
Peter
idnt know where to post this...so....Just to make things a bit clearer, the 2 contact LGB point motor operates on DC. If you have a 12 to 18 volt dc supply or battery and connect it to the point motor it will move to one position (if it is not already there). If you reverse the supply it will go to the other position. You only need a momentary contact to make this happen. If you leave the supply connected to the point motor, then it will get hot and not like that very much, but up to about 20 seconds won't hurt. The motor has a resistance of about 22 ohms, so if you operate it with 15 volts you are heating it with 10 watts. The dc supply can be obtained from half wave or fullwave rectified AC , or a battery, and the current drawn will be about 0.7 amps.
Peter
peterexmouth
Registered
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Half Wave rectified is fine, but you still only need a momentary contact. I think you would have to use a transformer with a 15 volt output if you are using half wave rectification. You get a peak output of about 20 volts DC by half wave rectyfing 15 volts AC, but the average will be about 10 volts.
Peter
idnt know where to post this...so....Half Wave rectified is fine, but you still only need a momentary contact. I think you would have to use a transformer with a 15 volt output if you are using half wave rectification. You get a peak output of about 20 volts DC by half wave rectyfing 15 volts AC, but the average will be about 10 volts.
Peter
korm kormsen
Registered
Reidnt know where to post this...so....
yes.
that is AC output plus a diode.
idnt know where to post this...so....steves said:
yes.
that is AC output plus a diode.
bobg
Registered
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Think of the a.c. current this way. A stream of, pos, neg, pos, neg, pos, flowing down the wire.
Fit a diode in the wire and it will block one of them, so you now get - pos, nothing, pos, nothing, pos.
Now take the diode out and turn it round the other way and it will block the other one, so you will now get - nothing, neg, nothing, neg, nothing, neg.
[style="color: #000000;"]So you see if you now put a diode in each wire, facing opposite ways, you get a sort of d.c. (half-wave).
idnt know where to post this...so....Think of the a.c. current this way. A stream of, pos, neg, pos, neg, pos, flowing down the wire.
Fit a diode in the wire and it will block one of them, so you now get - pos, nothing, pos, nothing, pos.
Now take the diode out and turn it round the other way and it will block the other one, so you will now get - nothing, neg, nothing, neg, nothing, neg.
[style="color: #000000;"]So you see if you now put a diode in each wire, facing opposite ways, you get a sort of d.c. (half-wave).
Reidnt know where to post this...so....
I am now trying to work out the electric point control on my layout. I understand from the original post above howthey are controlled. What size are the Diodes how do I find out if I wish to make my own control box?
Mr B.
idnt know where to post this...so....Neil Robinson said:
I am now trying to work out the electric point control on my layout. I understand from the original post above howthey are controlled. What size are the Diodes how do I find out if I wish to make my own control box?
Mr B.