LGB points (turnouts) causing derailing issue.

It's a bit of an irony that a large proportion of people in the UK who use the larger radius points, tend to use locos without skates.

It may have something to do with longer wheelbases / more wheels for current collection :rolleyes:
Never heard that one before - and I have to disagree with you.
 
The looseness of the skate leg lets it tilt backward making the leading edge lower. The locomotive front driver has also just ramped off the flange bearing frog making the skate front tilt down even further, it's edge digging into the gutter. My Stainz skate sits further to the outside already riding on the closest gaurd rail at this position. That may also indicate a back to back issue being too narrow. Checking back to back and reshaping the skates is a probably good place to start. That's if you still wish to use skates.

149266_f68b454a8980f62b7dc127f4be2cb0fa.jpeg
 
OK, probably another wrong theory of mine - our own bubble is sometimes too small :confused:
So I may be skating on thin ice here, but those skates are on the locomotives for a reason. That reason is to pick up power on possibly less than perfectly clean track.
 
Okay, I’ve had a play without any skates and as Stocker said the skates do make a significant difference. At least on my track.

When I examined the skates I found 4 of the 6 I removed needed a bit of ‘tweaking’ to enable them to pass freely over the frog (forwards & reverse).

Having refitted them everything is running as it should so it’s back to trying to complete the track, which as I’m sure you’re all aware probably won’t happen!

Thanks once again for all of your suggestions.
Regards,
Les.
 
Thanks for posting the photos. The interesting takeaway I learned a while ago, that while "larger number" switches, like R5 are more "gentle" in terms of curvature, the more "gentle angle" of the frog, means the throat (the open area swallowing your skates) is a bigger "hole"..

This is because since it is longer, that open area is longer. Combined with the typical lax tolerances of LGB and other "toy like" wheels and track means you have this issue.

Tighter tolerances, like the G1MRA or NMRA (not the toy train standard) minimize this issue. Also as mentioned before, a "flange bearing" design helps stop the WHEELS from dropping into the frog throat.

BUT, there's little to help the skates, which have no flanges to stop them from dropping below rail head height.

That's another reason I remove skates whenever I can.

Greg
 
I know this is a old thread however I am experiencing the same issue. I am leaning to a wheel flange / frog depth issue. My reasons are that I own a LGB Track cleaning machine and it is a heavy locomotive because of the track cleaning counter rotating wheels. Now that being said, I have noticed that the flanges of the counter rotating wheels have cut the plastic frog where the cleaning wheel flanges run over them. also I run a combination of cars, LGB, Bachmann, Pico, USA Trains... I also do not run a particular scale example narrow, standard scratch built. So in conclusion has anyone wver cut the frog flanges deeper? If so, how?

Thank you for your time

Old Focker Columbia SC "My wife's name for me on the AT"

Steven
 
I know this is a old thread however I am experiencing the same issue. I am leaning to a wheel flange / frog depth issue. My reasons are that I own a LGB Track cleaning machine and it is a heavy locomotive because of the track cleaning counter rotating wheels. Now that being said, I have noticed that the flanges of the counter rotating wheels have cut the plastic frog where the cleaning wheel flanges run over them. also I run a combination of cars, LGB, Bachmann, Pico, USA Trains... I also do not run a particular scale example narrow, standard scratch built. So in conclusion has anyone wver cut the frog flanges deeper? If so, how?

Thank you for your time

Old Focker Columbia SC "My wife's name for me on the AT"

Steven
Your track is LGB. We did have a few problems with the LGB track cleaner grinding frogs on Aristo Switches but not LGB if the Track Cleaner Wheels were in good condition, leave them on too long and the flanges tend to wear to a shallower depth thus possibly causing issues. As for deepening the frog flanges, there may be a bit if ‘meat’ to loose but not much before weakening the switch. You could use a file end on that is slightly smaller than the gap if you must.
 
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You don't say what radius turnout, you have?

Is it just at one place? - Points to track geometry.
Presumably, just the cleaning loco? - Could be time to change the cleaning wheels.
Have you tried running through in the opposite direction? - It may just make your problem go away.

Check levels of the track, where you are having the problem. Especially across the track.
Do you have a reverse-curve, at this point? - Perhaps put a short straight, between the two curves.

PhilP.
 
I know this is a old thread however I am experiencing the same issue. I am leaning to a wheel flange / frog depth issue. My reasons are that I own a LGB Track cleaning machine and it is a heavy locomotive because of the track cleaning counter rotating wheels. Now that being said, I have noticed that the flanges of the counter rotating wheels have cut the plastic frog where the cleaning wheel flanges run over them. also I run a combination of cars, LGB, Bachmann, Pico, USA Trains... I also do not run a particular scale example narrow, standard scratch built. So in conclusion has anyone wver cut the frog flanges deeper? If so, how?

Thank you for your time

Old Focker Columbia SC "My wife's name for me on the AT"

Steven
I do have a turnout (R3)) the will often cause a derailment with one particular, loco in one direction, the issue is a combination of things (in my case) wear in the frog, poor check rail, narrow flange on the wheel, not enough weight on the pony. I have done what I can and it only rarely now it happens, and that is caused by subsidence in the ballast.
 
Hello all, I have a problem with a set of LGB 18150 points (radius 5, left hand manual point) in that any loco attempting to cross it is derailed. I've tried various weight locos and they all come to grief.
I've removed the offending points from the layout to have a closer look and found that the wheel flanges are 'bottoming out' when crossing the frog. The problem is worse when travelling from left
View attachment 264980
to right. The biggest culprit is the mainline and to a lesser extent the turning. Before I strip it down does anyone have a cure or suggestion for this? The points are only a week or so old and purchased new. I really didn't expect this from LGB.
The check rails look a bit short and ideally should be longer than the crossing/ frog
I’d experiment with a strip of metal or plastic heavily blue tacked in place to effectively extend them
 
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