LGB starter set Stainz issue

It could also be one of your pieces of rolling stock is binding as it enters the curve further back.. Try gently pushing the stock round that part of your track without the Stainz on the front.
 
You are right!

The loco alone runs fine in each direction. This particular section is like an S curve. I was hauling 3 Playmobil wagons behind the loco. When I pulled the wagons with my "finger" as loco ;) I discovered that a point the resistance is noticeably more (which I could feel myself).
 
Glad you have found it!
An 's' or reverse-curve causes the most rolling resistance to a formation of stock..

Well remember a trip on a narrow gauge line in the UK where they had to reverse-out and come in again to a section known as the S's..
 
My Playmobil 5258 loco runs fine hauling same rolling stocks on same track!
May be its two traction tyres have something to do with it.
 
Maximum I can run behind a Single Stainz is 4 4 wheel coaches and a 4 wheel box car or postwagen

All my Stainz are pre 91 units with metal rods, some spit chassis some d chassis

My Original 1968 Units Cant Manage more than 3 Coaches
 
The fact that one loco can handle it and the other can't with identical cosists points to the "S" bend being the root cause (using R1's ?) It's then down to how each loco is set up as to which has the best adhesion to cope with the track conditions.

Basic track configurations, lesson 1 - avoid reverse curves (S bends) like the plague. Got rid or the one in my layout, to circumnavigate a rose bush, within a year. Re-positioned the rose bush.... and a few other plants to acheive ideal layout. L-o-o-n-g-g l-a-a-z-z-y S bends can be ok so long as your stock are shorties.
Max.
 
Just came across this.

My Stainz is also from a starter set, a Marklin, so newish.  I added weight to get it up to 1.9kg, which transformed its performance. (I haven`t removed the tyre, simply because it is performing so well, so I thought, leave well alone). Here it is right now,  as I speak, hauling three 4 axle coaches (albeit with ball bearing metal wheels, which are expensive but give a beautiful ride). I have two moderate gradients, and one S-Bend - R3 - and the Stainz is happily running around the circuit on analogue throttle notch 2. Which just increase my exasperation with my Rugen (per my other thread) for which I bought these coaches!
 

Attachments

  • photo.JPG
    photo.JPG
    142.8 KB · Views: 44
Two pieces of lead. Must admit I did not do it myself - which says more about me than about the difficulty of the process. But I believe the lead sits under each pannier. The Stainzmeister would be a much better adviser. Having said that, the effect on my loco was dramatic. When I bought it and first ran it, I was disappointed. Seemed like Otto with slightly dodgy sound effects. Couldn't understand the legend cult around these locos. Once it had weight, the performance was transformed, and I fell in love with it. The performance is out of all proportion to its size, and as Paul says, out of proportion to the capabilities of the actual real life loco.
 
Roofer, Builder,

Building supplies place, Some Scrapyards
 
I don't know if this helps in G-Scale, probably too fine. Good thing is you stick it in place so doesn't move about, bad thing is you stick it in place so not easy to remove :)

https://www.google.co.uk/#q=liquid+gravity

Phil
 
Mobi said:
Where do I get lead from? :-\
Click to expand...

There's also the self-adhesive weights used by tyre fitters for wheel balancing - the flat type that stick onto the inside of the wheelrim as opposed to the curved ones that are hammered into place on the edge of the rim.

Jon.
 
To make traveling over plastic frogs better and over all running I always have either a powered tender electrically tied to my engine, or a car behind the engine with pickups feedig the engine.
On the 2-4-0 with the 69232 style tender I added the 63193 kit (modified one half to fit the smaller wheel) to the rear truck (front truck has the reed assembly).
Made a big difference in running.
 
I have filled up the cab with pebbles (up to window sills) and I can see that the additional weight has improved traction! The Stainz used to spin wheels momentarily in part of track at notch 2 but now it is lulling there happily. :)

I also attached a heavy padlock via rubber brands at front of loco, which improved traction even further but I had to take it out as it looked like an eyesore (and bit unstable too).

I am now thinking of hanging couple of AA batteries via rubber bands on sides of boiler.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom