Meet Jane
- Thread starter hornbeam
- Start date
minimans said:
Pot boiler, so no need for a different boiler between alcohol and butane.
I actually mentioned these boilers on Facebook just today, these replacement ones are nice, the soft soldered ones from MSS/Mamod can fail under hotter fires, especially if you run the boiler dry.
Do you know if the guy who made your chimney is still in buisiness?
If I hadn't borght one I'd prob be bidding! Any tips as well?
Ron Bennett has a nice dome on his web site but safety valve goes trough it. I agree it's less realistic but seems more convienent. He also offers a taller chimney that may do the job.
If I hadn't borght one I'd prob be bidding! Any tips as well?
Ron Bennett has a nice dome on his web site but safety valve goes trough it. I agree it's less realistic but seems more convienent. He also offers a taller chimney that may do the job.
Ok,
Well I've started to strip her down (oh er). Will be stripping all the paint off.
i've sold on the 32mm wheels, burmer and cab. I decided on an open cab as I think they look better and cant live with the screw heads on the roof. Im thinking of waiting to get the PPS spoked wheels rather than the plain type. ive got some mamod ones I can test with, but they need to go back first. I got them as part of a gauge conversion set as cheaper than new cylinders but one bearing is fitted the wrong way around. MMS production had stopped for a while, mine were a fri afternoon job then!
ive sorted the chimey out- I have a copper dome from Roundhouse and after filing the lip of the chimney it fits and I think it looks ok? Ive never been keen on brass caps, or hand rails. So I think I will replace the handrails with some from brandbright. I will need to fill the holes up somehow as the Brandbright ones are shorter.
I have some nice whitemetal rank fillers to replace the brass basic ones but will these be ok or could they melt as its open firing?
Will also be changing the buffers, unsure with what as some of them look a bit to big, am thinking of a centre hook and a wodden home made dumb buffer.
Next stage is drilling for the new smokebox, side and extra tank hand rails and steps
ive also noted a few issues with the chassis- more on that later.
The gaskets supplied by MMS are very thick but shold be ok. Any tips on fitting them? I herd some people soak them in oil first? Also any tips on getting a good seal between the reverser and inside of the frames as no gasket is used?
Well I've started to strip her down (oh er). Will be stripping all the paint off.
i've sold on the 32mm wheels, burmer and cab. I decided on an open cab as I think they look better and cant live with the screw heads on the roof. Im thinking of waiting to get the PPS spoked wheels rather than the plain type. ive got some mamod ones I can test with, but they need to go back first. I got them as part of a gauge conversion set as cheaper than new cylinders but one bearing is fitted the wrong way around. MMS production had stopped for a while, mine were a fri afternoon job then!
ive sorted the chimey out- I have a copper dome from Roundhouse and after filing the lip of the chimney it fits and I think it looks ok? Ive never been keen on brass caps, or hand rails. So I think I will replace the handrails with some from brandbright. I will need to fill the holes up somehow as the Brandbright ones are shorter.
I have some nice whitemetal rank fillers to replace the brass basic ones but will these be ok or could they melt as its open firing?
Will also be changing the buffers, unsure with what as some of them look a bit to big, am thinking of a centre hook and a wodden home made dumb buffer.
Next stage is drilling for the new smokebox, side and extra tank hand rails and steps
ive also noted a few issues with the chassis- more on that later.
The gaskets supplied by MMS are very thick but shold be ok. Any tips on fitting them? I herd some people soak them in oil first? Also any tips on getting a good seal between the reverser and inside of the frames as no gasket is used?
MRail
16mm etc - Live steam, battery & trams
Sounds like a fairly comprehensive rebuild - any original left?hornbeam said:
Whitemetal? Things do get seriously hot, but hopefully not THAT hot.
The internal firebox should deflect most of the heat inwards (as itended).
The MSS gaskets are thick by design.
The Mamod cylinder blocks have plain backplates, the steam passages being in the gaskets.
PPS recommend using them on Jane - and it does help.
For 45mm, the gaskets are extra thick to move the cylinders outwards in line with the wheels.
I don't know about soaking in oil.
For sealing the reverser block (and the gaskets) I've used a blue gooey sealer from Loctite. (also on Ogwen).
Rob,
thinking about it that?s quite a list i've made. Only swapping the wheels for 45mm gauge, cab, buffers, burner and tank fillers.... oh and hand rails!
Bit of progress- smokebox handrails added, front sand boxes added and new somokebox dart ( makes a massive improvement) I just want her to look less toylike.
Also stripped all the paint off the body work, and primed it.
Will post some pics tomorrow
thinking about it that?s quite a list i've made. Only swapping the wheels for 45mm gauge, cab, buffers, burner and tank fillers.... oh and hand rails!
Bit of progress- smokebox handrails added, front sand boxes added and new somokebox dart ( makes a massive improvement) I just want her to look less toylike.
Also stripped all the paint off the body work, and primed it.
Will post some pics tomorrow
While sitting in my "little tile reading room" 8D today, I was reading a pre-Kalmbach issue of Garden Railways from the late 1990s. There was a vendor selling the PPS Janet, and another selling stock Mamods. The Janet was about $150 LESS than the Mamod.
Unfortunately, this is no longer the case today.
Unfortunately, this is no longer the case today.
Been a bit of work and the loco is now in bits. Ive removed the lip of the chimney and added a roundhouse copper dome think it looks the part.
Quite a lot done and once the camera is back at home I will post pics.
Decided I will paint the cylinders black.
I notice between the frames and reversing block there isnt a gaskit, I know this is normal; but anyone know why they are not used?
I ordered a gauge conversion kit for the cylinders and these are spacer blocks that fit behonf them. However these are to big when used with the thick gaskets. However, using three gaskets together packs out the cylinders enough. Would this work, worried that water will built up in the groves of them when cold. Filing that will make my own out of thin material, any tips on how to make hols in this material?
Quite a lot done and once the camera is back at home I will post pics.
Decided I will paint the cylinders black.
I notice between the frames and reversing block there isnt a gaskit, I know this is normal; but anyone know why they are not used?
I ordered a gauge conversion kit for the cylinders and these are spacer blocks that fit behonf them. However these are to big when used with the thick gaskets. However, using three gaskets together packs out the cylinders enough. Would this work, worried that water will built up in the groves of them when cold. Filing that will make my own out of thin material, any tips on how to make hols in this material?