More buildings ...

[trammayo]

Having sorted my track layout in the new yard, I started making preparations for the workshop building.

I had a section of Corflute sheet (ex-election poster) and a load of small off-cuts from the station project so I thought the floor of the new shed might well be made of this rot-proof material. I cut five parallel lengths and then glued on seperate pieces to allow for curves. The board had fixing holes in which were just hastily filled and the pieces were given two coverings of undercoat.

For fixing, I dug out all the small pieces and glued these to the edge of the sleepers, then glued the floor pieces on to them. I used some 15mm veneer pins , nailed into the sleeper ends, to keep everything in place whilst Pu adhesive set (its a rather 'slippy, slidy' material) and that worked.

Need some ballast and will use some cement to edge up the front of the floor. The depot/workshop building will not be the full length of the floor - the front part will form a short apron in front of the shed doors.

The shed will be timber framed and clad walls - with a corrugated roof (more beans for tea). I've been messing about for three days now but I feel I should be able to start building soon.

I've cut 150 actual feet of board (2.5mm x15mm approx.) which equates to over 3000 scale feet. All cut from scrap wood - not too bad on a 12" saw - just needs cutting to size and stray fibres sanding off.

 

[tramcar trev]

Looking very good.... And if I may be so bold as to suggest; a brilliant use for an election poster...

 

[trammayo]

Maximum effort there Mick IF you can find BAUFIX cement it sets in 3 mins!!..In a tub ex LIDL...that's it's trouble - - it sets quickly, although can be retarded I believe by added water....Indoor use and OUTDOOR.

You mean this stuff Ross? Did FIND it the other day looking for some adhesive - forgot I'd bought it - mind you buying stuff in case I need it doesn't always work out. Found the adhesive I was looking for but, having had it for so long, it was just one bucket shaped mass of solid latex

But now you've given me an idea for what I can use the rapid set stuff for

And thanks Trev - it's good quality stuff too - just waiting for the next election!

 

[trammayo]

Its a damp day here, but I thought I'd pose the two wall frames to see how they'd look. I've treated them on the outside faces with fence preservative, and I will do the exterior cladding the same. The inside will be painted white to represent whitewash.

The windows are some that I cast seven years ago - having used them on a couple of buildings these were the last. 1:24 windows are too small looking and even mine are nearly lost in the scheme of things. Clear height from railhead to underside of lintel will be 8.5 inches. ...

I used a nail gun with 30mm brads for the heavier wood and veneer pins (in pre-drilled holes) for the lighter sections supporting the windows.

The walls will sit on a dwarf (uPVC offcuts) wall which should stop the moisture creeping up - well that's the plan

 

[trammayo]

Moving on reasonably well with the sides - weatherboarded and treated - tested for clearance (loco reversing in on curve) and was able to trim 10mm off the "floor" which gives more outside space on the fosillised siding.

 

[trammayo]

Done a bit more - end wall made and fitted (still gables to do), then given a light coat of white and a smidgen of black to represent old whitewash. Also cut anf fitted fitted the timbers for the roof. Got the agles wrong even though I drew it out on paper. First piece cut was wrong - so I cut a second piece that was reasonable - then proceeded to use the second piece as a template. Only thing is, I picked the first piece! So, without using fingers, I count eight times wrong.

When the gables are done, it wont be noticed (at least not unless you get down to dog shelf level.

 

[trammayo]

Made the trusses look a bit more like trusses, completed both gable ends, infilled the corners and front to protect weatherboard, emptied the dregs of several spray cans to make the inside look better ......

Now just need to straighten out a couple of dozen corrugated tin cans ....

 

[nicebutdim]

Very nice and very effective I really do like that.

 

[tramcar trev]

If I may be so bold as to suggest visiting your local Pizza shop. They use tomato paste in 4 ltr corrugated sided cans...... I'm collecting some as we speak...,

 

[Don Gilham]

Enjoying this Trev - excellent

 

[trammayo]

If I may be so bold as to suggest visiting your local Pizza shop. They use tomato paste in 4 ltr corrugated sided cans...... I'm collecting some as we speak...,

There's not much local out here Trev. The wife makes her own pizzas - lovely (but banned for the old chorestrol). I've been saving the corrugated portions (making sure they're the same pitch) of our tins for quite some time. So have probably about 70% of what I need - just have to eat more beans I suppose!

And thanks for your comments all.

 

[tramcar trev]

just have to eat more beans I suppose!

And thanks for your comments all.

Hmm the old gas producers.... save natural gas pass wind into a jar....
Yes the pitch and amount of corrugation varies greatly from product to product. Another method is to find single sided corrugated card and then give it a thin coat of resin to solidify and weatherproof it then it can be cut and trimmed with a stanley knife. I'm experimenting with corrugated iron ( for my rotunda roof) and the card looks very promising it can be curved by wetting it, bending it over a form and allowing to dry before resin coating.

 

[trammayo]

I am used to straightening out the tins - although it is tedious! Nothing short of the real thing manages to survive the weather here - we're not many miles from the Atlantic, and the nearby Ox Mountains encourage rain! I was hoping to leave the building out all the time (with a coat of bitument on the roof). Treated weather-boarding seems to survive OK.

Here's a pic of a baked bean roof on a sawmill used on the trailer layout ...

 

[trammayo]

Before I put the roof on (I thought), should I install lighting?

I had purchased (from Poundland), a set of lights to go around a Parasol? Now a quiid for 20 grain of wheat bulbs and a 2 x AA battery holder wasn't bad although the parasol could only be the Victorian ladies type and not the garden variety as implied.

I well remember the green/white enamel shade type lights used in industrial building, but how to replicate those shades easily. I remembered I had some spring nails - ideal for fixing corrugated sheets and the like - and these had a dome washer on the end.

Said washer was eaily removed using a hammer, so that's what I'm going to use.

Here's a (usual quality) pic of lights as pulled from box with two batteries, plus the nails before beheading .....

Then a test a light before gluing and painting ....

Just need to make up a few more...

 

[trammayo]

Well, following some good advice from Ross, I've decided to use LEDs - so they are ordered. The bulbs are OK but, the leds will last a immeasurably longer (and the job won't need doing again - that factor alone captures my Yorkshire heart!).

Out into the shed now to bash the corrugated into shape.

 

[trammayo]

Well bashed (and bashed) the bean tins into something that looks like corrugated. Trouble is, I think a couple of extra purlins per roof side might have been better - the photos speak for themselves - no matter how hard you try they never really come out flat and there is some deflection.

I thought I might solder them - but this didn't work out as only one side (the outer of the tin) is virgin tinplate and the other is coated. I'll probably try some caulk to fill the little edge sags.

Ventilators and ridge pieces to make yet before I paint it.

 

[tramcar trev]

I think its a very realistic effect....

 

[mike]

it looks the part, nice job on it and the lights

 

[trammayo]

Thanks both for your comments - I reckon I've saved over £60 on commercially available metal sheeting but I should have put in more woodwork to nail to (air nailer and 15mm brads).

 

[trammayo]

I put a continuous ridge on the building for now, cut and formed from sheet lead and then nailed into position. Also bought some new ballast on Tuesday. My usual prefered, horticultural grit (Westland) was no longer available so ended up with one which was an entirely different colour and size - much smaller and too many fines - 3mm to dust. Anyway I mixed some cement in with the portion in front of the shed.

The roof had its first coat of paint - I was going to use bitumen but (as I have ventilator to fix to the roof) I decided that would be the last coat.

Door to make, tested for clearances for centre post (there will be two pairs of doors). Still awaiting delivery of Led's for lighting shed internally. Shed now outside on layout but not screwed down until all is finished.