beavercreek
Travel, Art, Theatre, Music, Photography, Trains
Luvly Jubbly!! 
More buildings ...
- Thread starter trammayo
- Start date
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Cheers Mike! Well after some thought (was going to make a louvred ridge ventilator) and a look at the link provided by Ray, I decided on the normal smoke hood type ventilators. I'm not going fitting the hoods inside you understand (you'd have to be at leprechaun height to view them) - just the pipes sticking above the roof.
Made from 20mm dowel, the process included 5 angled cuts (to be at the same pitch as the roof) and five right-angled cuts. Then the pieces were chucked in the late, a 40mm deep 3mm dia hole for the cut off spring nail (coolie cowl), and a 1.5mm hole in the angled end to take a steel dowel. The latter drilling had to be preceded by centre drilling to get a decent guide for the small drill bit.
The steel dowels are pop rivet shanks saved from the bridge building project. A line was pencilled on each side of the roof, the five locations marked using a auto-centre punch, and ten 1.5mm dia holes drilled (in the roof purlin of course).
The dowels, complete with their cowls and the "steel dowels", were tried for size and a smidgen of the Pu sealant applied to bed them down on. The sealant is akin to golden syrup - it strings out and gets everywhere! One correctly located, they were painted (1st coat) in black u/coat and a flashing apron painted on the roof surrounding them. Then it was a 2nd coat of the red oxide type paint (as used on barns etc - a glossy coat but excellent weather protection). I am now warming to the red and when I give it the third (and final) coat I'll just add some black for weathering.
So far ......
The Led's came in the post yesterday (not bad just a week in UK's and Ireland's postal systems!!!!) so I'll make the lights next hopefully if domestic chores don't get in the way.
Made from 20mm dowel, the process included 5 angled cuts (to be at the same pitch as the roof) and five right-angled cuts. Then the pieces were chucked in the late, a 40mm deep 3mm dia hole for the cut off spring nail (coolie cowl), and a 1.5mm hole in the angled end to take a steel dowel. The latter drilling had to be preceded by centre drilling to get a decent guide for the small drill bit.
The steel dowels are pop rivet shanks saved from the bridge building project. A line was pencilled on each side of the roof, the five locations marked using a auto-centre punch, and ten 1.5mm dia holes drilled (in the roof purlin of course).
The dowels, complete with their cowls and the "steel dowels", were tried for size and a smidgen of the Pu sealant applied to bed them down on. The sealant is akin to golden syrup - it strings out and gets everywhere! One correctly located, they were painted (1st coat) in black u/coat and a flashing apron painted on the roof surrounding them. Then it was a 2nd coat of the red oxide type paint (as used on barns etc - a glossy coat but excellent weather protection). I am now warming to the red and when I give it the third (and final) coat I'll just add some black for weathering.
So far ......
The Led's came in the post yesterday (not bad just a week in UK's and Ireland's postal systems!!!!) so I'll make the lights next hopefully if domestic chores don't get in the way.
garrymartin
My Family,Railways, Beer and the Seaside
Marvellous building Sir!
peterbunce
1880's Colorado Narrow gauge on 45mm track
Hi,
good looking work Mick, the gloss could soon be toned down by a covering from the weather so will not 'stand out' so much.
Your new loco shed looks well with the other building: are you going to make a plug door (not to scale) to close off the entrance and stop the bugs and such like, liking your 'new home' for them? Especially for the winter etc?
Yours Peter
good looking work Mick, the gloss could soon be toned down by a covering from the weather so will not 'stand out' so much.
Your new loco shed looks well with the other building: are you going to make a plug door (not to scale) to close off the entrance and stop the bugs and such like, liking your 'new home' for them? Especially for the winter etc?
Yours Peter
tramcar trev
all manner of mechanical apparatus...
Overall a most impressive structure...
beavercreek
Travel, Art, Theatre, Music, Photography, Trains
Really, really excellent Mick. The gloss on the roof will soon dull but if you wanted to accelerate the 'matting' I always use a coat of Testors Dulcote .
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Thanks for your kind words all.
Peter - I'm going to make scale doors (I've tested for clearances and its feasible - tongue in cheek!) as you say, we don't want non-paying guests!
And yes - David - we too have a cute critter (he's too cute for his own good).
Mike - the paint has now dulled after last night. I have some matt spray varnish but I don't know how it would stand up to the weather. Mind you I don't know how long the shed will last either
Peter - I'm going to make scale doors (I've tested for clearances and its feasible - tongue in cheek!) as you say, we don't want non-paying guests!
And yes - David - we too have a cute critter (he's too cute for his own good).
Mike - the paint has now dulled after last night. I have some matt spray varnish but I don't know how it would stand up to the weather. Mind you I don't know how long the shed will last either
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
In between doing lots of other things (non-railway stuff), I made up fifteen lamps using the warm light Leds.The method was as previously described, save for each "shade" was drilled out to 5mm to accept the short piece of plastic sleeve. All was superglued into position before painting.
I wanted pendant lights and ordered some wire and other bits. Having seen the wire (@ 1.6mm O.D) I decided they would look like pairs of 100amp S.W.A - way over scale!.
Anyway, I have vague memories of early lighting suspended on two seperate straight wires so this was my choice. The led tails were shoved through pre-drilled holes in the carrier wood and the ends bent over. I had some 0.5mm solid wire which I stripped the insulation off. The bare copper was laid under the bent over Led tails and soldered up.
I have only done one set so far (there will be three rows in the shed) but it works ok.
When I've soldered them all up, I will glue the naked wires and the tails to the wood. Also some more paint is required for the top of the shades because the light shines through the plastic sleeves,
I wanted pendant lights and ordered some wire and other bits. Having seen the wire (@ 1.6mm O.D) I decided they would look like pairs of 100amp S.W.A - way over scale!.
Anyway, I have vague memories of early lighting suspended on two seperate straight wires so this was my choice. The led tails were shoved through pre-drilled holes in the carrier wood and the ends bent over. I had some 0.5mm solid wire which I stripped the insulation off. The bare copper was laid under the bent over Led tails and soldered up.
I have only done one set so far (there will be three rows in the shed) but it works ok.
When I've soldered them all up, I will glue the naked wires and the tails to the wood. Also some more paint is required for the top of the shades because the light shines through the plastic sleeves,
beavercreek
Travel, Art, Theatre, Music, Photography, Trains
Fine job Mick. They really look the business. I do like the way that you have made the shades
tramcar trev
all manner of mechanical apparatus...
Oh they are gorgeous!
I had similar problems when I made my illuminated destination boxes that light escaped through the paint so I masked off all but where I wanted to see light and gave them a spray with cold galvanizing paint as an undercoat. That did the trick!
I had similar problems when I made my illuminated destination boxes that light escaped through the paint so I masked off all but where I wanted to see light and gave them a spray with cold galvanizing paint as an undercoat. That did the trick!
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Thank you again for your comments. I'm trying to get it finished before the really bad weather - and so I can move on to something else - so I gave the lampshades another coat of paint before installing them in the shed. I don't know if the light will shine through in the dark (which it nearly is now) or if the shed will still be there in the morning after the winds we are suffering at the moment.
Anyway a couple of pics (wish I knew how to use the camera ). The 15 lights are running off two AA's at the moment .....
Anyway a couple of pics (wish I knew how to use the camera
). The 15 lights are running off two AA's at the moment .....
beavercreek
Travel, Art, Theatre, Music, Photography, Trains
Superb Mick .....leds ..don't you just love em?
For any buildings that are light or very exposed to winds etc, I sink a couple of metal rods into the earth at the inside corners of buildings and fix them invisibly to the rods.
For any buildings that are light or very exposed to winds etc, I sink a couple of metal rods into the earth at the inside corners of buildings and fix them invisibly to the rods.
tramcar trev
all manner of mechanical apparatus...
Its a great engine shed!!! Love the lights too.
I found that the diffused lens leds provide a more "diffused" light for lighting where you want to create the impression of and incandescent bulb. I bought these and for internal lighting these are (pardon the pun) spot on... For headlights waterclear is better, though its all personal preference....
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50pcs-5m...ht-/130679699104?pt=US_Car_Lighting&hash=item
LED technology has come a long way, I'm looking at LED driving lights for my car super bright but super expensive atm but give it a few months.......
I found that the diffused lens leds provide a more "diffused" light for lighting where you want to create the impression of and incandescent bulb. I bought these and for internal lighting these are (pardon the pun) spot on... For headlights waterclear is better, though its all personal preference....
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/50pcs-5m...ht-/130679699104?pt=US_Car_Lighting&hash=item
LED technology has come a long way, I'm looking at LED driving lights for my car super bright but super expensive atm but give it a few months.......
beavercreek
Travel, Art, Theatre, Music, Photography, Trains
Good link Trevtramcar trev said:
I have roughed up the exterior of the 5,5 sized led bulbs (direct replacement for Pola tungsten screw type), to make them spread more light but still keep that 'cone of light' effect that the real shades would cast. But the ones that you linked too are a nice cheap alternative for when screw fitting is not available.
Again, excellent Mick!
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
beavercreek said:
Maybe a satin spray will do the job? I'm reasonably suited with the effect - they are a whole lot better than the ordinary white leds. Thanks for the link though Trev - I might have a look at getting some at that price!
Mike, the shed is on a a plywood base and I hope to screw it down (coming up throught the underside of the board) when I've finished mucking about with it.
Because of the limited clearance at the front, I'm thinking of making sliding bi-fold doors. I must emphasis the word 'thinking' - it all hinges on the hinges (so to speak)
Thanks for your comments all.