More buildings ...

Hi Trev - I have some of the Doll's house type (but not enough) and the peg type would be too large for the material I'm using (3mm ply, battended with coffee stirrers).

I have reverted to plan A and the two pairs of doors. The doors are cut and scribed on a piece of scrap ply from a flush ply door. As it was previously painted, I think it has a distressed look about it which suits what I'm doing.

The hinges are going to be "crooks and bands" and I've made them from some angle flattened out. Trouble is, they need in total 48 holes of 1mm dia. It's hard work using an Archimedes type drill, so I have resorted to the battery drill. Then broke a 1mm bit, then decided on 1.5mm as it was stronger, then snapped that (but enough left to fit back in the chuck), then the battery went flat ..... I'm using pins, cut to length to fasten the bands and then clenched them over on the back of the door. The battens will cover this effective, but crude, work.

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Mmmmm nice bit of work there Mick
The hinges look good as well as functioning well. This is becoming quite a work of art mate. I think that I will go and look at my scratch building efforts and look where I was lazy and took shortcuts! I bow to your skills and, as in the drill scenario, your perseverance.
 
Your too kind Mike and selling yourself short! Your line as an ambience and eye for detail which I could never emulate. And it's the likes of your line (and others on this forum) that made me sit up and think I should be doing more. So I'm having a go and it takes my mind off other things as well.

I managed, with a little difficulty, to hang the doors this morning - then promptly removed them!

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The difficulty was hanging them on the crooks (hooks) within the constraints of the doors being inset in the door portals.

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Then the need to remove them was brought about by the requirement to seal them from the weather (as well as adding the batten framework).

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Anyway, I need to make make drop bolts and other fastenings so it will take some time before I can re-hang them.
 
Inbetween other 'jobs', I managed to finish and paint the doors (and rehang them).
Still need to make drop bolts etc., but the doors are staying on because the cat got in yesterday. I'm not worried about the shed, it's just that he may destroy the lights!

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Those hinges as just so right for the job, Must remember the technique....
So we are not talking "Cat in the Hat", rather Cat in the shed. To keep the cat out of the shed secret a block of camphor or moth balls somewhere inside. It will repel Spiders and Cats. I personally think Camphor adds a more "eastern" fragrance....
 
Inspirational stuff! I like the way you have mirrored full-scale construction techniques - thanks for keeping us updated.

Rik
 
tramcar trev said:
Those hinges as just so right for the job, Must remember the technique....
So we are not talking "Cat in the Hat", rather Cat in the shed. To keep the cat out of the shed secret a block of camphor or moth balls somewhere inside. It will repel Spiders and Cats. I personally think Camphor adds a more "eastern" fragrance....
Click to expand...

:rolf::rolf: Don't know about moth balls but he'll be losing his in a month's time! I haven't seen camphor (or smelled it) for many years now.
 
ge_rik said:
Inspirational stuff! I like the way you have mirrored full-scale construction techniques - thanks for keeping us updated.

Rik
Click to expand...

Thanks Rik.

Anyway, I got stuck in after lunch and made the bolts and the door bars. The bolts are made from brass tube and rod - the tube being soldered to a piece of galv strip and six holes drilled in. They were fastened to the doors using 4.5 x 1mm (ex 6x1) brass pins shoved in with pliers and crimpe up using water pump pliers.

The door bars are 8x1.5mm M/S strip cut to 80mm long, with a hole drilled in at 45mm from one end (to weight the bar so it will fall one way. The 'keeps' for the bars are the same galv metal as the hinges and bolt plates. Drilled and bent to shape, then fastened with 0.5mm dia pins cut to length and clenched over using the pump pliers (these allow for a good depth of material in the jaws).

Need to make some door stays and then that part of the building should be finished. 12v lighting to be made for the outside, some details required for the inside and then a mall corrugated lean-to annex on part of the fossilised sidibg.

Usual caveat about my pics ....

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Mick, this build (and of course the station too) is a real credit to you. I just love those doors. I am not sure if you said that you would be leaving the building out all the time or not. I built my decking some 9 years back and it has a complex understructure due to the lie of the land and some small stub walls etc. As it took me on my own some effort I decided that it would never rot! I use cuprinal 5* fluid. It is clear, doesn't affect the nice 'aged' grey patina or stained finish, is spirit based so it soaks in really well and really protects it.

As it worked so well, I have used it as a single coat on my wooden buildings as they stay out all year round. It is really effective at stopping any rot that may occur from damp 'wicking' up from the bottom of walls. Even though the building may be mounted on a waterproof base, this 'wicking' always occurs and is where I have seen model buildings first beginning to rot.

Just an idea as a lovely structure like yours should be helped to last for as long as it needs
 
Cuprinol #5 I think is a 5% solution of Copper Napthanate. From my experience with wooden ship hulls if it had been around 150 years ago we would still be useing timber to build boat hulls. It has no peer as a wood preservative. It can be obtained as a water based product and to apply its best if you can pour it into a container and soak the timber in it which for model building is entirely practical. I have used it on outdoor furniture with total success, I made up a "tank" out of PVC pipe and left my timber out in the sun to warm up expanding the air in the cells, while still hot plunge it into the copper and as it cools its sucked into the grain, lift it out after an hour and let the excess drain then allow to dry. Once it's dry toxicity is minimal as the copper dosen't seem to leach out of the timber.
 
outstanding ... 5 star and more jobby ,, trulley a master class in buildings..well done mick
 
tramcar trev said:
Camphor is still widely used in Pagan, Wican rituals so your local Druid supplier should stock it. Maybe just hang out at Stonehenge during a Druid Festival and scrounge some.... If all else fails its available on the internet, Viz: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Camphor-...ltDomain_0&hash=item3cbcf7456a#ht_3795wt_1135
Click to expand...
Its amazing what you can get on evilbay. Do you remember Camphorated Oil? No longer available on the shelves here. Wanted some Liquid Parafin (to try and get the older cat to spit out - or otherwise - its fur balls. Not available other than by asking the pharmacist over the counter. No prob - they still use it at the Children's Hospital in Dublin so it should be OK:rolf::rolf::rolf:

But its worth a try Trev - think it should work for the wood lice (who love damp dark places and wood)?
 
Thanks Mike. I have used a wood preservative but I take in what you say about Cuprinol. I have some original Ensele which is ideal for treating the ends of tanalised timber.

And Trev - good idea for drying the timber out first! I use a smidgen of washing up liquid in the Ensele and that also allows the treatment to penetrate down into the wood. This in lieu of the sunshine!

And Mike D - thank you. I've a long way to go yet but I'm enjoying it. Observing others and their lines is always a source of inspiration for me (to get out there and do something)1
 
Yesterday was a little like the curate's egg - good in parts! Inspired by the odd spell of sunshine, I set to and started on a lean-to for the shed. Made from the timber left over (and a couple of weeks collecting more tin cans), It was soon knocked up using the nailer.

The frame is chunky so that it takes the nails and, hopefully lasts a little longer. It has been treated and will have the same uPVC plinth wall as the shed. The door ply is inset into the timber so that the corrugated goes over the edges. Suitable stripwood will be glued in to represent the door frame. Bargeboards need making and then plenty of protection (I'm thinking of bitumen for the walls).

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A light will be added (really getting in to using Leds!) to shine out of the little window. A section of the 'old' siding will be removed to accomodate the new structure.

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Whilst using an air nailer saves a huge amount of time (saving the drilling of several hundred holes), it does have certain drawbacks - like punching the (brad) nail head right through the tinplate - although reducing the air pressure helps to overcome this. It has been one of the most useful tools I've ever bought.
 
Painted my new lean-to. Black bitumen for the walls, and red oxide barn paint for the roof. Stovepipe made from 8mm solid, cowl made from sheet metal (supports) and a slice of plastic from a widget (cowl top).

Siding shortened and ballast dug out to accomodate the building.

From the trackside (well over the top of the trestle) ...

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Stovepipe .....

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Shortened siding ....

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Now going to have a go at some 'yard' detailing (I hope).
 
with the skill and ingunity shown here..im looking for ward to it
 
Your too kind Mike! Anyway, I knocked this up yesterday afternoon (I've done a small thread on it in the Scratch Building section).

Just a couple of pics on the siding .....

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Very nifti. Of course if I was doing this I would have to have "Malcolm's Tram" on the disused siding....
 
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