My first attempt at G scale

If you want to avoid the complexities of reversing modules or change-over switches then that crossover has to go. You've got a dead short right now - if you pull apart the two points in the crossover you'll remove the short for now until you decide what to with these points. Unfortunately even fitting isolating joiners between the two points won't be enough, you'll still get a short when a loco runs through the crossover.

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You have another two reverse-loop configurations at the bottom of your diagram, they also need some isolating joiners and change-over mechanism
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If you feel you really need that crossover, then I think one of the suggestions is to move one of the points of your crossover so that you create a section of track long enough for your longest train? This section would need to be isolated on both rails at both ends, and be fed by a suitable changeover switch or reversing module.

The other section I've marked in red also needs to be similarly isolated and switched to avoid reverse-loop problems at the bottom of your diagram.

reverse loops.jpg
 
One thing - do not confuse the old LGB "reverse loop track set" that Dan mentioned (the 1015K/1015T tracks) with the electronic reverse loop modules from LGB and Massoth that we've been discussing in other posts. They are two very different solutions to the same problem. With the 1015 track set, diodes are used to prevent the short-circuit problems inherent in reverse loops, but it either needs automation in the form of an EPL switch attached to a point motor (as in Dan's posts), or it needs the controller knob to be manually reversed each time a train goes through the loop.
The reversing loop modules are electronically-controlled units with built-in relays that reverse the track polarity to avoid the short, and need no other switching either automated or manual:
http://www.gardenrailoutlet.co.uk/massoth-dimax-reverse-loop-module
Either solution will work, you just need to decide which best suits your needs.

Jon.
 
AddictiveBiscuit said:
Because I wouldn't be able to explain through text it I've quickly made this up on Paint of how I wanted it to work, the loco is red the brown is the freight train.
View attachment 211061


Looking at it them points might not be needed but I sort of did it this way to fit in with the EBT style of yard I was going for.. I'll have to have a think about it.
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That manoeuvre can be completed with the crossover points removed AND put the loco back on the train facing the correct way, just by continuing round the loop. and backing on to the waggons. Use the point for more sidings and shunting.
 
Fine I'll do what most of you want me to do! :rofl: If I removed the set of points and just used the loop that is marked in red could the old LGB isolating tracks be used on that with no problems? I'm to bothered about having the train stopping and having to change the controller speed as its going to be a yard for shunting etc.
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Remember Rule 8. It's your railway!

Having said that, good ideas can come form 'other eyes' too. If you really want it 'that' way, you have to work around the problems. It's where it's all at. :nod::nod: :D

Those points could make an exchange sidings in the top loop.
 
At the end of the day I want to just play with my trains ;) I can take it out and use that point later thankfully or that would have been £45 down the drain, would there be a short circuit anywhere else if I was to take it out.. The way the electrics work on G scale is very new to me and I don't understand a lot of it :rofl:
 
The biggest thing to remember about the electrics in G is that pretty much NOTHING is designed to be self-isolating. All rails will be live unless you put in deliberate isolating breaks. This includes points, crossovers, double-slips and anything else. Bear that in mind at all times, trace your +ve and -ve rails round the circuit and if the two ever meet, you've got a problem that you need to work around.
Oh, and points are never wasted - you can ALWAYS find somewhere for another siding! ;)

Jon.
 
Take out the crossover points and the only short you have left to worry about is the section you marked in red in your latest diagram.

I find one trick to identifying reverse loops is to look for "teardrop" shapes in your track plan with a point at the "sharp end", as illustrated by MadMan in post #16. That's a sure sign you've got a reverse loop. In your original diagram I can identify 4 potential teardrops!

The electrics aren't that different to the small scales, just that the points don't route power they simply pass it through on all rails, so you have to add isolation and switching yourself. as Jon says.
 
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All you need to solve your 'short' problem on the latest version of your diagram, is 4 insulating joiners, and a Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) electrical switch... you can get all of that for less than $10. Install the insulators on each rail, at both ends of the red section (in fact, extend the red section right back to the bottom points). This 'red section' will determine the maximum length of train you can 'reverse'. As for wiring, you connect the middle tabs of the switch to the red section, and the top and bottom tabs to the top and bottom tracks. By using the switch, you decide which section will be feeding power to the red section (I always select the section I'm coming from). When the train is wholly in the red section, stop the train, reverse direction on your controller, flick the reversing switch, and away you go. Just remember to have the switch in the direction of the track you are coming from, then switch it to the track you are going to. If your switch is 'centre off', you can hold a train on the red section while you run something else.

Good luck.
 
Gavin's idea is the absolute simplest and least costly way of doing what you initially intended. The only drawback, if you see it that way, is that you are continually operating your train. There's no sitting back and watching them run with this method.
 
Madman said:
Gavin's idea is the absolute simplest and least costly way of doing what you initially intended. The only drawback, if you see it that way, is that you are continually operating your train. There's no sitting back and watching them run with this method.
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Sorry Dan you are not quite right here, Gav's idea is just for the reversing section. The Dogbone Loop can be used for running Trains continuously.
JonD
 
Let's not try to complicate things here, but, in reality, once you have sent a train through the reverse loop, that's it. You will, of course, then be trailing through the points that access that loop. Then you start thinking about how to introduce a second reversing loop, just as I have done. In this case, I'd connect the top of the right hand straight, with curved track at the top right. Insulate just after each of the frogs on the main lines, and again in the middle of the 'new' reversing section. Take the power feed from one of the 'main lines' through the DPDT switch to the big curve.
 
Keep it simple. Just remove the cross over and return loop and get playing trains. Once you have established a layout and learned a bit from experience, by all means start playing with the problem.
 
I'd insulate one end of your crossover and look into the massoth reverser, works well with DC. There's plenty of people to help you through the installation. As I remember, you make a short insulated section just before the "reversing" part, and that short section alerts the massoth unit to reverse.

I'd leave the track the way you want it, there are many solutions, since you already have the track down.

Greg
 
Now that I have read about the Massoth reverse lop module, I would agree with Greg. That makes things so much simpler than any of the belt and suspender solutions.
 
Think I'll keep it simple for now and just work on getting trains running, I'll find a use for them points elsewhere.
 
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