OcCre tram Lisboa

oh well .. I took this Occre motor unit for San Francisco cable car as to replace my flickering and full wheeled engine.

motorization kit for s.francisco | Kreativity World

Acquista online l'articolo MOTORIZATION KIT FOR S.FRANCISCO ( OcCre - 55002 ) su Kreativity World, il sito di riferimento per appassionati di modellismo.
www.kreativity-world.com www.kreativity-world.com

Occre has stopped producing motor units, so the 55013 is already unavailable ..
I had to take what's available, the San Francisco cable car kit at least adds me 4 wheels for future projects.

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_1010517.jpg


_1010519.jpg


obviously I had to adapt the motor unit to the distance of the wheels of my tram.

_1010523.jpg


_1010528.jpg
 
wrighizilla said:
oh well .. I took this Occre motor unit for San Francisco cable car as to replace my flickering and full wheeled engine.

motorization kit for s.francisco | Kreativity World

Acquista online l'articolo MOTORIZATION KIT FOR S.FRANCISCO ( OcCre - 55002 ) su Kreativity World, il sito di riferimento per appassionati di modellismo.
www.kreativity-world.com www.kreativity-world.com

Occre has stopped producing motor units, so the 55013 is already unavailable ..
I had to take what's available, the San Francisco cable car kit at least adds me 4 wheels for future projects.

_1010514.jpg


_1010517.jpg


_1010519.jpg


obviously I had to adapt the motor unit to the distance of the wheels of my tram.

_1010523.jpg


_1010528.jpg
Click to expand...
That looks like a very suitable chassis kit for a small Bogie Railcar or Tram.
 
well, I found the solution.
my handmade motor unit is not so bad especially mixing the pieces with those of the Occre.
Compared to the motor unit Occre mine is a little lower and the tram is aesthetically better.

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1010575.jpg


_1010574.jpg


More than that I can't lower, the wheels almost touch in the floor.
to lower more difficult, should be make wheel arches inside the passenger compartment...

The Occre motor unit will be used for a heavy locomotive cleaner that I really need, nothing will go to waste.
 
Wow! I finally read through the whole of your project. I am truly amazed at your skills. Very impressive, especially all the extra work and detail - electrification, opening windows, glass, etc.. :clap:
 
Congratulations for the magnificent work,

I'm trying to make my version of this tram and I'm borrowing some of your improvements. They take the model to another level of realism!

How did you do the passenger door hinges? I've tried looking online for tiny hinges but they all look too big for the door frame, What have you used?

Thank you for your help W wrighizilla .

Pedro Carvalho
 
PedroCarvalho said:
Congratulations for the magnificent work,

I'm trying to make my version of this tram and I'm borrowing some of your improvements. They take the model to another level of realism!

How did you do the passenger door hinges? I've tried looking online for tiny hinges but they all look too big for the door frame, What have you used?

Thank you for your help W wrighizilla .

Pedro Carvalho
Click to expand...
Not sure what he has done to make hinges but scale ones are possible if fiddly. My Gauge Three loco shows how I made some. Link below will take you to the thread, you will need to navigate to post 33.
 
PedroCarvalho said:
Congratulations for the magnificent work,

I'm trying to make my version of this tram and I'm borrowing some of your improvements. They take the model to another level of realism!

How did you do the passenger door hinges? I've tried looking online for tiny hinges but they all look too big for the door frame, What have you used?

Thank you for your help W wrighizilla .

Pedro Carvalho
Click to expand...
Hello, many thanks.

I used 2 strips (4 x 2 doors) of white ripstop.
I had it at home left over from a sail boat model.
is a very thin synthetic fabric that is used to make kites but also waterproof ponchos, camping tent etc.
I chose the ripstop because it always remains elastic, is very thin and putty stick on it.
a stripe is exposed on the outside to achieve that movement.
the strip is long the same of door panels.
on the ripstop I then filled with a plastic putty and sanded except 1mm center line.
the part that remains soft is just the thin black 1mm line on which I write over with a black ballpoint pen.
the second strip disappears between the back of the door and the side of the tram.
sorry, I don't have a photo of the ristop glued on the door panels .
if you do not find this material think about something as thin as you can fold indefinitely with a sharp bend without breaking.
maybe work the same a cotton gauze or a latex glove.
however, test with 2 pieces of leftover wood before choosing, at least see if it glues, if it paints and if it works.
 
wrighizilla said:
Hello, many thanks.

I used 2 strips (4 x 2 doors) of white ripstop.
I had it at home left over from a sail boat model.
is a very thin synthetic fabric that is used to make kites but also waterproof ponchos, camping tent etc.
I chose the ripstop because it always remains elastic, is very thin and putty stick on it.
a stripe is exposed on the outside to achieve that movement.
the strip is long the same of door panels.
on the ripstop I then filled with a plastic putty and sanded except 1mm center line.
the part that remains soft is just the thin black 1mm line on which I write over with a black ballpoint pen.
the second strip disappears between the back of the door and the side of the tram.
sorry, I don't have a photo of the ristop glued on the door panels .
if you do not find this material think about something as thin as you can fold indefinitely with a sharp bend without breaking.
maybe work the same a cotton gauze or a latex glove.
however, test with 2 pieces of leftover wood before choosing, at least see if it glues, if it paints and if it works.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for the quick reply!

I've indeed thought about that solution but I was hoping that there would be some sort of microscopic hinges that I never came across that would do the trick. It would be easier!

Thanks also to dunnyrail dunnyrail for the reply. I've looked over the photos on your topic to see if I could get new ideas for my project.

Best regards to all!

Pedro Carvalho
 
PedroCarvalho said:
Thank you very much for the quick reply!

I've indeed thought about that solution but I was hoping that there would be some sort of microscopic hinges that I never came across that would do the trick. It would be easier!

Thanks also to dunnyrail dunnyrail for the reply. I've looked over the photos on your topic to see if I could get new ideas for my project.

Best regards to all!

Pedro Carvalho
Click to expand...
in theory you can also make hinges if you find a very thin tube. for example the needle of a syringe in which you pass through a fine guitar string.
needle must be cut with dremel cut disc.
I have do this kind of hinges many times.
2 short pieces of needle glued on top and bottom of one door thickness and a longer piece glued centered on the other door. fix the steel string with glue on the heads of the short needle sections, this way you made a hinge that is hardly visible.
however, you must remember to glue it not centeed on wood thickness but close to the outside face, otherwise the thickness of the wood section does not open the door.
pay lot of attention with ciano to do not glue inside the central part of the needle.
 
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Paul M said:
Getting syringes may be a problem though
Click to expand...
You can get 2ml syringes, and more importantly, blunt 'needles' from fibre-optic cabling (data cabling) supply houses..

We use them for 'injecting' adhesive into fibre-optic connectors, when field-terminating fibre.. :nerd::nerd::mask:

PhilP.
 
I would pop a couple in the post..

But how to fill-in the Customs declaration, post Brexit? :eek::rolleyes:
 
I don't know what problems you have in your countries but in Italy the 5ml syringes are sold at every supermarket.
I usually use them to dose small quantities of epoxy resin and polyurethane catalyzed colors.
 
wrighizilla said:
I don't know what problems you have in your countries but in Italy the 5ml syringes are sold at every supermarket.
I usually use them to dose small quantities of epoxy resin and polyurethane catalyzed colors.
Click to expand...
I don't think syringes are the problem, it's the sharp pointy bits that I would have thought to be difficult to obtain for a layman
 
the needle must be cut with the disc of the dremel, the sherp pointy must be cut.
to make a hinges you need 3 tubes: 2 short tubes to be placed at the bottom /top ends of the port 1 and a long one to be centered on the port 2.
just glued with really few ciano on the side.
if the syringe needle is large inside you pass a 0.08 (mi) guitar string and secure it with a dot of medium density ciano glue or vinyl at the ends.
if the needle is small, an electric copper wire enters in it.
I think it's the thinnest hinge you can get.
the other way is as I say a syntetic material like ripstop or something you can ply many times.

consider the hinge we are talking to must be fit here on the front side of this two doors.

1010453.jpg


and this is the result we want, just a thin black line.

in this photo you can see a short part where the ripstop is unglued on the yellow door side.

_1010502.jpg
 
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