Once Upon A Time I Had A Garratt

kedwards

kedwards

Caving, Garden Railways & more caving. Fan of TTTE
I purchased the Garratt from Martin of Martin's models several years ago. It was custom made from two Stainz starter set locos and it worked on the LGB MTS system. I really liked the loco and used it a lot but one sad day ...P1000096.jpg
... I broke it! The chassis (if that's what it's called) where the front pivot was attached broke. I glued it a couple of times and carried on using it but the the last time it fell apart I found a number of wires had got mixed up with the glue and they broke too. The loco has been languishing in a cupboard for the last 4/5 years.
I've now decided to dismantle the loco and see if I can repair it and also convert it too battery power and radio control.
IMG_0584.jpg
I've dismantled the cab and boiler and taken out of the the electronic bits and pieces so can now attempt a repair to the broken pivot. However I would rather not have to take any more of it apart so can anyone help me please? Each motor block has four wires going to it - pink, red, grey and black. Which two are connected to the motor and what are the other two for?
Also what voltage battery pack and capacity would be optimum for this loco bearing in mind it has two motors.
Any help would be really appreciated.
 
The recent colours are green, brown, white and yellow. You either have a previous version here or someone has already changed things. Are they older clam-shell gear boxes? or the more recent ones with a plate on the bottom - a photo might help.
In any event, the two stainz chassis are opposite ways round so the motor and pick up wires need to be mis-matched accordingly.i.e left from one chassis matched to the right from the other.
 
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Thanks Alan for the quick response.
You ask a very good question. I've no idea!
Here's a photo.
IMG_0588.jpg
I could take the four screws out and see what's inside but if I do are lots of things likely to fall out that I will not be able to get back in?

Keith
 
That is the more modern one.
I note that the skates are missing - no problem for your battery conversion but it may indicate that the wiring have indeed been altered.
If you can get to the top of the motor blocks, you will see 4 wires - these are connected to 4 metal posts that are integral with the motor block. (possibly only three - come back here and we can explain)
The outer two posts are connected to the motor - usually green and yellow.
The inner two posts are connected to the track - or battery - usually white and brown.

LGB do things different - the digital control standards say

Red and Grey are the rail connections
Orange and Black are the motor connections
These colours nearly match yours so I would give it a try. Substitute rail for battery.
 
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That's a later-version four-pin gearbox (distinguished from the three-pin type by the embossed "D" next to the sticky label), which is a good thing, and there should be no reason to take them apart if they are running OK. On the top of the motor block you will have four connector pins - the wiring colours you describe are not LGB standard, so you can either check them out with a multimeter or simply look at where they plug into the block; the INNER two pins are track power - marked br = braun (brown) and ws = weiss (white) - the OUTER pins are motor feeds marked gr = grun (green) and ge = gelb (yellow).

When pairing-up the wires from the two gearboxes, do take note of Alan's warning about one unit being reversed, so you'll need to swap polarities or you'll have a permanent short!

The Garratt is a lovely little model, good luck with getting her refurbished! :)

Jon.

Edit: Stockers posted at the same time I was writing mine, so apologies for duplicated info!

Further edit - Alan, just read your post carefully and I think you've got the track and motor connections swapped round? I'm sure it is brown/white = track power, yellow/green = motor....
 
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Thanks Alan, Jon and Dan

It all makes perfect sense even to a numpty like me so I now feel confident to proceed.
I agree, Jon - it is a nice looking model and I really do want to get it running again.
Dan, I will post some photos showing progress as I repair it and put it back together, and I was thinking of using a 14.4V battery pack which agrees with your advice.
Isn't GSC brilliant for sorting out this type of problem.
Thanks again everyone.

Keith
 
Thanks Jon - you picked up my little mistake - now corrected.
 
Since I last posted there's been a lot of head scratching. As well as repairing the front pivot I needed to find space for a battery pack, R/C receiver, motor controller, sound card and speaker.

Front Pivot
Front Pivot 1.jpg
This has been made from a 1.2mm thick piece of brass plate and will eventually be glued and screwed in place.
Front Pivot 2.jpg

Motor Controller and R/C Receiver
Finding space for the electronic components has been a real headache. I've bought the controller (URC11) and receiver (URX1) from Timpdon Electronics. The URC11 incorporates automatic control of directional forward and reverse lights. I've managed to shoehorn both these components in the front tank.
Front Weight.jpg
I was hoping to create more space by removing the lead weight from the bottom of the tank, but this made the front end far too light.
Ready for Packing.jpg
Not only has all this lot got to fit in the tank, also 7 cables need to be run to the main part of the loco - battery +ve and -ve, motor +ve and -ve, aux 1, aux 2 and cable to rear light. The thick white cable is 8-core. I obtained this from Maplin Electronics -it's burglar alarm cable.
Packed.jpg
It was a very close shave but all components and wiring are now in the front tank. I will paint the thick white cable matt black and hopefully it won't be very noticeable.
I've ordered a custom made 14.4V battery pack and sound card from Peter Spoerer. Finding room for these bits has been equally challenging. I'll post another update in a week or two.
 
The battery pack arrived yesterday and I temporarily wired up the motors and lights and it works. So for the first time in 5 years the loco moved under its own power. It's not a pretty sight be it does run.
P1000197.jpg

 
Good example of perseverance succeeding!

You might now like to consider removing stuff from inside the Boiler. From memory there is a big chunk of Lead (metal) inside. This should then give you space to shoehorn the rest of your Electrics inside that Boiler. Switch and Fuse Box could go beneath a Modified Coal Bin that is present just in front of the Cab (1 each side?). Then they would be accesible but pretty much invisible.
JonD
 
dunnyrail said:
You might now like to consider removing stuff from inside the Boiler. From memory there is a big chunk of Lead (metal) inside. This should then give you space to shoehorn the rest of your Electrics inside that Boiler. Switch and Fuse Box could go beneath a Modified Coal Bin that is present just in front of the Cab (1 each side?). Then they would be accesible but pretty much invisible.
JonD
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Thanks very much for your interest and advice.
There is indeed a big chuck of lead inside the boiler and this space was my first choice for the receiver and motor controller but the controller is wider than the boiler diameter. I've now fitted the fuse inside the rear tank with the battery pack. The sound card should fit in the boiler space and I'll investigate the coal bin area for the switch and charging socket.
 
Alarm wire is very lightweight. I trust your use will be fine but if you get unexpected electrical issues the power feeds might be on the limit.
Looking good - nice job.
 
stockers said:
Alarm wire is very lightweight. I trust your use will be fine but if you get unexpected electrical issues the power feeds might be on the limit.
Looking good - nice job.
Click to expand...
I agree and share your concern but motor the wiring I ripped out was of the same gauge so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I've now fitted the speaker (in the cab roof) and the sound card (in the boiler) but the smoke unit is only giving out a few vague wisps of smoke so I've sent for a replacement. I'm hoping to have it finished sometime next week.
 
It's all finally coming together. The loco is back in one piece and finishing touches are being added.

The front tank houses the motor controller and radio control receiver.
P1000216.jpg

Custom made battery pack and fuse in rear tank
P1000217.jpg

7 core cable from front tank disguised by matt black paint
P1000219.jpg

New number plate
P1000220.jpg

The sound card is in the boiler and the speaker in the cab roof.

Outside pictures will be added in a day or two.
 
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