Andrew Smith
Registered
Hi, What's the best way to cut flexi track, are specific tools required?
Andrew
Andrew
Peco Flexi Track
- Thread starter Andrew Smith
- Start date
Greg Elmassian
Guest
I use a carbide cutoff wheel on a hand tool "Dremel", makes a clean, controllable cut and does not distort the rail.
An extremely useful tool to have. In fact almost a must really. Not only is it very good for cutting and drilling, there's so many attachments for its enhancement.
The only thing is, it's a bit difficult to cut the track en situ as you may find the body hits the ground before the cut is complete
The only thing is, it's a bit difficult to cut the track en situ as you may find the body hits the ground before the cut is complete
Greg Elmassian
Guest
Notice the new cutoff disks are large in diameter, so you can cut the rail by lying the tool on the track.. you can also get an even thinner extension to make this easier:
DafyddElvy
1:22.5 & 15mm Scale Trams, , NG Steam Railways
I use a wee fret saw to cut the rails.
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
Junior hacksaw. Rotary tool or a fine flat miniature file to clean up the ends, if nessesary.
As Paul says a rotary tool is a bit awkward to use "in the field" but anyway I never cut in-situ (my line is ground based). While I have a drill stand, flexible dive and 100 watt rotary tool its not an application I have put them to. Cut off wheels, even the reinforced type are slow, prone to break if not used with care. They also have tendency to "catch" causing all sorts of mayhem. Max
As Paul says a rotary tool is a bit awkward to use "in the field" but anyway I never cut in-situ (my line is ground based). While I have a drill stand, flexible dive and 100 watt rotary tool its not an application I have put them to. Cut off wheels, even the reinforced type are slow, prone to break if not used with care. They also have tendency to "catch" causing all sorts of mayhem. Max
Greg Elmassian
Guest
I'm not demeaning the suggestion, but when i used a saw, even a small razor saw, it seemed to put undue stress on the "spikes", the plastic parts that hold the rail to the ties.
This has been my experience (also it takes a lot longer ha ha!)
greg
This has been my experience (also it takes a lot longer ha ha!)
greg
A fine toothed hacksaw, use a pair of pliers to hold the rail, push down to hold the rail from moving about and cutting against the pliers is easier than trying to cut to a mark.
As others have hinted don't use a 'dremal' type tool with a cutting wheel as that is liable to shatter, and cause damage to you.
David
As others have hinted don't use a 'dremal' type tool with a cutting wheel as that is liable to shatter, and cause damage to you.
David
GAP
G Scale Model Trains, 1:1 Sugar Cane Trains
I use a 5" angle grinder with an ultra thin ceramic cut off wheel (1mm thick), the track is anchored by timber between the rails held by G clamps or screwed down.
www.pferd.com.au
PFERD Tools
www.pferd.com.au
I found a Junior Hacksaw with a new blade works well. However it is also worthwhile to have some preasure on the rail to help. I have a short length of 2x1” timber with 45mm rail groves cut in to hold things steady when pressed down during cutting.
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
I should have added where the track is in position
Cutting track before fitting, a good vice and a 32 tpi hacksaw.
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
No offence taken. The picture below may illustrate the issue I have with cut off wheels. OK for trimming or "facing" the ends but yet to find one that is large enough, or that does not wear down too quickly, to make a perpendicular cut practicable further in.
Hacksaw can do both rails at same time and get the ends level. Not noticed any broken chairs using this method. Different strokes for different folks I suppose
Max
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
I was just about to say that - the normal Dremel cutting tool doesn't have a large enough diameter to get a nice cut.Notice the new cutoff disks are large in diameter, so you can cut the rail by lying the tool on the track.. you can also get an even thinner extension to make this easier:
I've always relied on a hacksaw.
The point is that you don't need a perfect cut, nor a perfect rail joint. As I frequently re-affirm, I am an expert in badly laid track, and have very few derailments, none of which are due to may appalling track, with one exception, the Yeti doesn't like to take a certain 8ft curve in one direction, but it does have extremely fine flanges and quite a long wheelbase.
This video is quite instructive, although not everything in the 1:1 world translates into our 1:20 world.
maxi-model
UK/US/ROW steam narrow gauge railways 1:1
I could be tempted Dremel SC690 Cutting Accessory Set 10 Pcs - Screwfix
However, these types of disc wear down quickly. There are better prices by Screwfix are just down the road. I don't do Prime. Max
However, these types of disc wear down quickly. There are better prices by Screwfix are just down the road. I don't do Prime. Max
Arthur Dawson
Registered
Hi Andrew, I use a dremmel with a cutting disk for the rail and sleepers. Just need to file the rail ends after.
3 minutes of fame
3d printing, electronics and trams
The Range sell a very acceptable Dremel alternative. I use Cliff Barker stainless steel track, so the only thing that will cut it well is the mini cutting discs.
Eye protection is a must. It's not only if a disc was to fail - it can happen, but also the dust and metal filings that fly off during cutting.
Eye protection is a must. It's not only if a disc was to fail - it can happen, but also the dust and metal filings that fly off during cutting.
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
I have a twin pack, and I find then quite long lasting and very durable.