Peco Flexi Track

[QUOTE="3 minutes of fame, post: 695542, member: ]

Eye protection is a must. It's not only if a disc was to fail - it can happen, but also the dust and metal filings that fly off during cutting.
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Absolutely. Putting on a pair of safety specs (correctly rated for impact protection) should be automatic. Hefty gloves too, for larger discs.
 
Northsider said:
[QUOTE="3 minutes of fame, post: 695542, member: ]

Eye protection is a must. It's not only if a disc was to fail - it can happen, but also the dust and metal filings that fly off during cutting.
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Absolutely. Putting on a pair of safety specs (correctly rated for impact protection) should be automatic. Hefty gloves too, for larger discs.
[/QUOTE]
Indeed so, Angle grinders are serious beasts and can have serious impacts if used incorrectly. Timely reminder Patrick.
 
These newer carbide disks from Dremel are fiberglas reinforced, never had one fly apart.

The older disks, of homogeneous carbide grit with no reinforcement would shatter and fly apart with regularity.

So these newer Dremel disks are safter, longer lasting, have the quick release mount, and larger diameter... is quite an improvement.
 
maxi-model said:
Slight overkill but what the heck. Will make short work of any flexi rail cutting jobs. Ideal if you are planning a very large layout from scratch.:D Max

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Does anyone have experience using one of these mini-chop saws, for track cutting or otherwise?
 
FatherMcD said:
Does anyone have experience using one of these mini-chop saws, for track cutting or otherwise?
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I have the last one on the list, it’s great, but not so mini.
 
The max thickness of the mini chop saw is 6mm for metal cutting.
I have used one of the larger ones to cut fishplates and rail at the 1:1 Cane Railway.
I also have a slide compound saw for use on timber, I used it to cut all my wood for my layout, for the steel and rail I used my angle grinder.
 
I don't quite understand the max thickness... to me it seems it would be the width of the material, i.e. how much of the blade is involved/engaged that would be the limiting factor
... but I'm looking at thickness as the distance from the center of the earth, width that fits in the clamp and length that what extends out of the unit.

anyway, I have not tried any carbide tipped blades (have not found any), and the carbide disks need speed and power.

Greg
 
I have a BnQ bought cop saw that I use for large and medium size timber, the blade is metal rated and cuts through nails quite happily with a suitable row. However I would not rate it for cutting track as the blade is too coarse for that job. Just what type of chop saws and blades have we been talking about here? No real clue from the adds that I could see. Plus at the cost of a chop saw definitely over the top compared to a mini hack saw at a sub £10 price.
 
dunnyrail said:
I found a Junior Hacksaw with a new blade works well. However it is also worthwhile to have some preasure on the rail to help. I have a short length of 2x1” timber with 45mm rail groves cut in to hold things steady when pressed down during cutting.
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Exactly the method I use - including the wooden block.

Rik
 
Greg Elmassian said:
I'm not demeaning the suggestion, but when i used a saw, even a small razor saw, it seemed to put undue stress on the "spikes", the plastic parts that hold the rail to the ties.

This has been my experience (also it takes a lot longer ha ha!)

greg
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Greg, regardless of modelling scale, I have always cut groves in a piece of wood to place over the rails when I cut them, that could be why I've not had any problems using the fret saw.
 
Andrew Smith said:
Hi, What's the best way to cut flexi track, are specific tools required?

Andrew
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I use the dremel max saw (current version is max ultra). It cuts up to 3/4" lumber, steel, tiles, etc. with different blades. I adjust blade cut to the depth of a rail. The saw is solid enough to give you a firm grip to allow in-situ cutting. Cuts very quickly so the rail doesn't heat too badly. Also a very handy saw for many home projects.
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Heat from an abrasive cut-off wheel could compromise plastic ties (sleepers) and is not particularly well suited for non-ferric metals. Saws, even fine-toothed saw present a different problem, one that has already been addressed in this thread. The problem is the torsional pressure against the spiked ties (sleepers.) As previously mentioned, a good solution would be using a tight-fitting rail jig that firmly holds the rail while cutting.
 
I use carbide cutoff wheels, and there is heat, but cuts so fast heat is not damaging ties.

The thin Dremel carbide cutoff wheels don't remove a lot of metal, so do not create a lot of heat.

John, have you ever actually used one of these to cut rails? Your post sounds theoretical rather than from direct experience.

Greg
 
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