Planning for a station
- Thread starter trammayo
- Start date
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Cheers Mike & Nico. Well, I didn't do anything else on the station site yesterday but I did collect the Tongue Depressor Sticks ordered off ebay (ready for when I eventually get to the roof
).
This morning, with the prospect of yet another dry day, I set to with the platform area of the new station.
I had some strips of timber cut from a pallet plank, so I utilised to make the edge shuttering ....
I had to notch it (using a chop saw) to make it follow the curve of the nine. The timber is set below the heoght of the rails ....
Part of the edge formwork was fastened down to mortar and the other is fastened to timber - so I had a selection of nails from Lidl which are slim enough for wood yet strong enough to act as masonry nails (so two for the price of one - yipee).....
After this I mixed the mortar/concrete - 3 to 1 mix, with some added lime (make it a bit creamier and holds the moisure better). Before trowelling the stuff in, I sprayed with water using an old domestic Dettol spray bottle. The water helps stop the mortar drying out too quick.....
Because the platforms are only around 20mm thick, I decided to use an offcut of the plastic strawberry netting (not that we grow plastic strawberries you understand) for strength ......
And job done (I hope) - onwards and upwards
).This morning, with the prospect of yet another dry day, I set to with the platform area of the new station.
I had some strips of timber cut from a pallet plank, so I utilised to make the edge shuttering ....
I had to notch it (using a chop saw) to make it follow the curve of the nine. The timber is set below the heoght of the rails ....
Part of the edge formwork was fastened down to mortar and the other is fastened to timber - so I had a selection of nails from Lidl which are slim enough for wood yet strong enough to act as masonry nails (so two for the price of one - yipee
).....
After this I mixed the mortar/concrete - 3 to 1 mix, with some added lime (make it a bit creamier and holds the moisure better). Before trowelling the stuff in, I sprayed with water using an old domestic Dettol spray bottle. The water helps stop the mortar drying out too quick.....
Because the platforms are only around 20mm thick, I decided to use an offcut of the plastic strawberry netting (not that we grow plastic strawberries you understand) for strength ......
And job done (I hope) - onwards and upwards
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
mike said:
Thoughts? I have plenty of thoughts, although its a pity I don't always apply them to what I'm doing
Well I spent a couple of hours (or so) this morning mixing and laying mortar for my lighthouse 'hill' - so I thought I'd get on with the station this afternoon. I took a couple of locos out to test clearances and to gauge the height of the overhanging roof (as it will be).
Cut the "ex-election poster" corroflute sheet up to make the two long walls and tried them for size. The wind was steadily increasing in strength so that didn't work out, then I noticed that the cowcatcher was damaged on the V&T loco so I repaired that and then put the locos away.
Tomorrow maybe.
steven large
USA G SCALES OF 30 TO 50S THEMES.ASLO KIT BASHING
wowooooooooooooooooooow..awesome mate..loves it...cool idea..
p.s.does masorney paint will work on my upside down fish fibre glass pond..?
p.s.does masorney paint will work on my upside down fish fibre glass pond..?
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Hi Steven - I'd be tempted to get some coarse glass paper and scour the surface and maybe use an oil-based undercoat first. You can get oil-based masonry paint but most of the stuff on sale is water-based (emulsion) type which won't stick to smooth plastic for long (even oil-based paints might wear off over time). Paint it and maintain it!
steven large
USA G SCALES OF 30 TO 50S THEMES.ASLO KIT BASHING
HI AGian..yes u are rite so does acyilla work as well....coz i did paint a small area to see if it work..it workin but what abt raining soon..lol..
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Further to yesterday's post above, I have been asked what adhesive I used and can say that I used a construction adhesive (Lidl's finest). However, I find that although it is good for many materials it does tick the box in this instance!
It can be prised off the plastic so, with the weather (rain and wind) it might cause the joints to split away. Any thoughts of using it for gluing the cladding on with it have also been abandoned.
I have a test piece (cladding and plastic) waiting for destructive tests (bucket of water) and I used Evostik. I know others have used this glue (their buildings providing great inspiration) but I want something that is virtually bomb proof that can - in certain locations - be left out permanently. Buildings in vulnerable ares will have to be brought in for the winter of course.
Anyway, a little research suggests Polyurethane Sealant/Adhesive is the thing for Corflute type sheets so I have ordered a couple of cartridges from a Dublin firm and they should be here early next week. So, until then, construction is suspended!
It can be prised off the plastic so, with the weather (rain and wind) it might cause the joints to split away. Any thoughts of using it for gluing the cladding on with it have also been abandoned.
I have a test piece (cladding and plastic) waiting for destructive tests (bucket of water) and I used Evostik. I know others have used this glue (their buildings providing great inspiration) but I want something that is virtually bomb proof that can - in certain locations - be left out permanently. Buildings in vulnerable ares will have to be brought in for the winter of course.
Anyway, a little research suggests Polyurethane Sealant/Adhesive is the thing for Corflute type sheets so I have ordered a couple of cartridges from a Dublin firm and they should be here early next week. So, until then, construction is suspended!
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Well, there were problems with delivery on the glue cartridges (badly damaged) but, I am happy to say, the problem was resolved in 24 hours! Two new cartridges arrived Frday and I tested the adhesive yesterday afternoon. So the project restarts now!
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Well.... other jobs keep getting in the way but I have managed to do a little. First three pics show the "skeleton" of the building completed ready for cladding ......
The first wooden constructions were the freight depot doors - plain planks on battens, framed with some square timber. They are inward opening so virtually all the door furniture is hidden from sight. I sprayed the back of the door with acrylic varnish as the outside will be painted - this balances the protective coating and should prevent warping (he hopes). The glue used was the yellow (waterproof) alphatic PVA. .....
The glue for applying all the woodwork is a polyurethane sealant adhesive with 25% elasticity, it comes in metal tubes for use in a caulking gun ....
I had doubts about cladding overall because of the high humidity which can cause problems. However the glue will give and allow the wood (coffee stirrers) to expand and contract without becoming detached from the Correx board. Well that's the plan
I did experiment with weatherboarding, using the coffee stirrers and Evo-stik, but felt that the narrowness of the stirrers made the boarding look a finished scale representing 4". I bought a pack of lolly sticks which would certainly look right but their thickness was too great.
Pic of experiment - the coffee stirrers are tapered at each end which doesn't help ....
Using the Pu glue, I started on the end wall (Freight depot end). I tried weatherboard effect but the glue is rather squidgy initially and the "planks kept moving as I tried to overlay more of them. In the end I said "s+d it" and went for (fairly) close boarding. One result of the slideability of the glue was it squeezed up between the joints. It is overpaintable so I'll just live with it ....
Anyway, I persevered and finished the cladding of the gable end. The glue takes about forty minutes to cure but I think its better after a couple of hours. I glued the doors on this morning so I'll soon be able to get on with a bit more.....
The first wooden constructions were the freight depot doors - plain planks on battens, framed with some square timber. They are inward opening so virtually all the door furniture is hidden from sight. I sprayed the back of the door with acrylic varnish as the outside will be painted - this balances the protective coating and should prevent warping (he hopes). The glue used was the yellow (waterproof) alphatic PVA. .....
The glue for applying all the woodwork is a polyurethane sealant adhesive with 25% elasticity, it comes in metal tubes for use in a caulking gun ....
I had doubts about cladding overall because of the high humidity which can cause problems. However the glue will give and allow the wood (coffee stirrers) to expand and contract without becoming detached from the Correx board. Well that's the plan
I did experiment with weatherboarding, using the coffee stirrers and Evo-stik, but felt that the narrowness of the stirrers made the boarding look a finished scale representing 4". I bought a pack of lolly sticks which would certainly look right but their thickness was too great.
Pic of experiment - the coffee stirrers are tapered at each end which doesn't help ....
Using the Pu glue, I started on the end wall (Freight depot end). I tried weatherboard effect but the glue is rather squidgy initially and the "planks kept moving as I tried to overlay more of them. In the end I said "s+d it" and went for (fairly) close boarding. One result of the slideability of the glue was it squeezed up between the joints. It is overpaintable so I'll just live with it ....
Anyway, I persevered and finished the cladding of the gable end. The glue takes about forty minutes to cure but I think its better after a couple of hours. I glued the doors on this morning so I'll soon be able to get on with a bit more.....
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Whilst I have been busy over the past few days, I have not had much time to devote to the station. However, with the odd hour here and there, things are taking shape.
I don't know how anybody else cuts their lollipop sticks - having tried razor saws, Exacto knife, and Stanley - I tried the secateurs. Works a treat! We have a three or four pairs but the 12-year old Wickes seem to be the best.
I measure out one piece of stick (making sure that, in movimg up the vertical, the distance - or width - between openings is the same top and bottom. I then select my next piece (having checked that it isn't propellor or banana shaped), lay the cut piece over the top making sure the ends are in line and then just move the secateurs up to the cut piece which acts as a stop. Then cut!
and a pile of fairly reasonable (to size) pieces mount up. It is not an exact science - my fingers are no longer (or were they ever?) precision tools - but irregular or short boards do not matter as the end will be covered by architraves and other construction detailing
I have tried applying the adhesive in different ways ....
as a ribbon for one pece of wood
and up and down and round about for several pieces
Both methods works OK. When finished with a glueing session, I cap the end of the nozzle. A day (or two) later, unscrew the cap and there is just a small plug of cured adhesive to pull out. An old rag to wipe the nozzle on is good for excess glue. I use meths to remove it from my fingers as the glueing wood is quite slideable and squishes out sometimes between the joins.
Clamps (plastic clothes pegs -spring type are useful) or weights need to be utilised sometimes because a stick migh decide to warp or bend!
The Pu Sealant/Adhesive cures and you have a waterproof glue which allows the wood to expand and contract. It isn't for prolonged immersion in water so I wouldn't make a sunken galleon out of it unless I wanted a pile of driftwood a few days later.
And finally, a trio of shots showing progress so far.
I don't know how anybody else cuts their lollipop sticks - having tried razor saws, Exacto knife, and Stanley - I tried the secateurs. Works a treat! We have a three or four pairs but the 12-year old Wickes seem to be the best.
I measure out one piece of stick (making sure that, in movimg up the vertical, the distance - or width - between openings is the same top and bottom. I then select my next piece (having checked that it isn't propellor or banana shaped), lay the cut piece over the top making sure the ends are in line and then just move the secateurs up to the cut piece which acts as a stop. Then cut!
and a pile of fairly reasonable (to size) pieces mount up. It is not an exact science - my fingers are no longer (or were they ever?) precision tools - but irregular or short boards do not matter as the end will be covered by architraves and other construction detailing
I have tried applying the adhesive in different ways ....
as a ribbon for one pece of wood
and up and down and round about for several pieces
Both methods works OK. When finished with a glueing session, I cap the end of the nozzle. A day (or two) later, unscrew the cap and there is just a small plug of cured adhesive to pull out. An old rag to wipe the nozzle on is good for excess glue. I use meths to remove it from my fingers as the glueing wood is quite slideable and squishes out sometimes between the joins.
Clamps (plastic clothes pegs -spring type are useful) or weights need to be utilised sometimes because a stick migh decide to warp or bend!
The Pu Sealant/Adhesive cures and you have a waterproof glue which allows the wood to expand and contract. It isn't for prolonged immersion in water so I wouldn't make a sunken galleon out of it unless I wanted a pile of driftwood a few days later.
And finally, a trio of shots showing progress so far.
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
The cladding is almost done but, before I can complete it, I need to make the roof. Before I do the roof, I need to sort out the lighting and, before that I need to make the windows! This last task is a little time consuming and delicate but I'll get there I suppose
The missing cladding is on the tower - after I do the roof it needs the flashing and then I can cut the boards to suit.
The lights - well I have a timed 12 volt DC supply for the Lighthouse with (many watts to spare) so I looked at the 12v prewired LEDS - described as white (with the blueish hue) and I dipped a few in glass paint which then gives a the yellow paint a slight green tinge Neither light looks too bad but then I remembered I had some 5w push-in bulbs.
I'll probably use a mixture of all three - a couple of 5watts in the main building, yellow LEDs in the tower and the white behind the clock faces.
I intend to make the glazing semi transparent - which will hide the fact that the internal concrete nearly comes up to sill height - and act as a diffuser for the lights.
I've started making the linings for the window openings and they will be a gentle push-fit into those spaces. There are 15 apertures comprising four different sizes - 5,5,3 and 2 off.
It is intended they will represent sash windows but they will be fixed of course with just one piece of glazing material. The effect of sashes will come from the top window glazing bars and frame being deeper that the bottom half. Well that's the thinking
The missing cladding is on the tower - after I do the roof it needs the flashing and then I can cut the boards to suit.
The lights - well I have a timed 12 volt DC supply for the Lighthouse with (many watts to spare) so I looked at the 12v prewired LEDS - described as white (with the blueish hue) and I dipped a few in glass paint which then gives a the yellow paint a slight green tinge
Neither light looks too bad but then I remembered I had some 5w push-in bulbs.I'll probably use a mixture of all three - a couple of 5watts in the main building, yellow LEDs in the tower and the white behind the clock faces.
I intend to make the glazing semi transparent - which will hide the fact that the internal concrete nearly comes up to sill height - and act as a diffuser for the lights.
I've started making the linings for the window openings and they will be a gentle push-fit into those spaces. There are 15 apertures comprising four different sizes - 5,5,3 and 2 off.
It is intended they will represent sash windows but they will be fixed of course with just one piece of glazing material. The effect of sashes will come from the top window glazing bars and frame being deeper that the bottom half. Well that's the thinking
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
I haven't had chance to progress over the last two weeks but I managed to make one glazed window up yesterday (before I had a visitor) and this morning after shopping, I painted it, fitted it and stuck on the architrave. Only fourteen more to go.
It takes seven matchsticks and two pieces of thinner wood (for the vertical glazing bars) - all stuck to a piece of CD case. Not brilliant mitres on the architrave but a bit more practise?
Right, need to cut the hedge (well I don't need to really - just have to!) ....
It takes seven matchsticks and two pieces of thinner wood (for the vertical glazing bars) - all stuck to a piece of CD case. Not brilliant mitres on the architrave but a bit more practise?
Right, need to cut the hedge (well I don't need to really - just have to!) ....
beavercreek
Travel, Art, Theatre, Music, Photography, Trains
Mick, this is simply superb. It looks magnificent already and will look so good when finished in the site that you have chosen
nicebutdim
Registered
Looks very good to me 