Playmobil 27 mhz RC Electric Train (4010) Conversion

PhilP said:
The Rx45 is a 3-6V 500mA device.
I think you would exceed this limit if you were to stall the loco. - I believe you have both R1 and grades on your line?
It is also a tiny device, so you would probably have to decide what you wanted before ordering, so that it could be supplied pre-wired?

If you want sound, you are going to need a higher supply voltage for the sound card, so you would be fitting within the body, and space should not be at a premium.
The MR001a has pins for connection, giving you flexibility to experiment, without resorting to the soldering iron.
The ESC would give you the flexibility to swap to a bigger battery, if this proved necessary. - Tight curves, grades, a larger loco, and sound. All will add to the current draw, reducing your running time.

PhilP
Click to expand...
Phil, many thanks for the explanation, makes sense.
 
There is an error in the LED wiring on the right.

Lights will only be on when lok is running. - Possibly a good thing, if this is mainly for the Grandkids?
 
PhilP said:
There is an error in the LED wiring on the right.

Lights will only be on when lok is running. - Possibly a good thing, if this is mainly for the Grandkids?
Click to expand...
Phil, error spotted (ta :)), blue LED wire needs to go to motor blue wire :eek:, and yes mainly for the grandkids so LEDs will be off when stationary, I find with my other locos they come on almost as soon as power is applied, and often before the loco moves, and allows use of bi-colour LEDs without complicated wiring.
 
IF you should want directional lights on all the time, and are using two-wire LED's, then it is possible from the Rx.
I can see why you would not want this though..
 
You could save your batteries from unnecessary discharges with lights linked to receiver power rather than motor power. When a train is not in use and you can easily see that the power is on because of stationary lights, then it's less likely that you'd accidentally forget the the power is on. You'd be able to notice if a kid secretly turned on and left on the power without your knowledge.

The worst was when a non-lighted train on a table secretly had it's power turned on, and it shared a receiver crystal frequency with another train on the track... Someone goes to run the train on the track, and the one on the table drives off the edge receiving damage.
 
-bbbb said:
The worst was when a non-lighted train on a table secretly had it's power turned on, and it shared a receiver crystal frequency with another train on the track... Someone goes to run the train on the track, and the one on the table drives off the edge receiving damage.
Click to expand...
sounds like one of those “how did I know that moments”.
 
-bbbb said:
You could save your batteries from unnecessary discharges with lights linked to receiver power rather than motor power. When a train is not in use and you can easily see that the power is on because of stationary lights, then it's less likely that you'd accidentally forget the the power is on. You'd be able to notice if a kid secretly turned on and left on the power without your knowledge.

The worst was when a non-lighted train on a table secretly had it's power turned on, and it shared a receiver crystal frequency with another train on the track... Someone goes to run the train on the track, and the one on the table drives off the edge receiving damage.
Click to expand...
With a sound card on board, it is easy the hear when power is still applied, which is how I manage my other battery RC locos :)
 
Forgot to mention, when you open the loco, there are large body supports inside.

when you remove the bogies they are visible from underneath,

just don’t order any batteries until you’ve opened the loco up and checked the space.

Dan
 
Hi, this project is not progressing as well as expected, and I was wondering is anybody could provide me the specs for the motor. Although the design of the Loco is for 4 X 1.2 volt batteries (4.8 volts nominal), I was hoping somebody may have specific detail on the motor, i.e. volts/watts/amps ratings. :):):):):):):)
 
After few hiccups the conversion is finished, it seems the 2.4 gHz RC did not like the standard 4 X NiMH batteries, and in the end 2 X Li-Ion batteries were used. A more thorough test run has been carried out, but a short clip of the test, with engine sound set to "Taurus", which Mrs B says is "quite annoying" :)


P.S. The full account of the work carried for this conversion will go on my blog this weekend, so those of you that are interested can view it, link to follow.
 
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