Pola 330911 Double Track Loco Shed

I have this mad idea of fitting sprung bumpers onto the back walls of the loco shed and installing micro switches. One switch to toggle a red green LED maybe on a small post just before the shed to show that a loco is in and at the end of the track and a second to isolate the track section in the shed to stop the little engine drivers (grandkids) recreating that scene of a loco hanging over the edge of the track :D
 
Wea
Graham said:
I think the weathered look is moulded in and not painted on. If the glue used has the correct solvent base the mating parts are quite solidly joined and should not come apart.
Click to expand...
Weathered effects, where applied, on Piko and Pola kits are a paint "wash". It's a bit like not cleaning up metals properly when soldering....Yes, they hold together but the joint will fail sooner rather than later. Solvent only "melts the plastic, residue of paint if still there will contaminate or stop the solvent doing its job altogether. Built any kits with "chrome" plating, same problem.
 
The Pola Auto Door Closing System I have is mechanical. It is opened by the loco hitting the doors to open them as the loco leaves the shed. As the loco enters the shed it hits the closure at the back of the shed and pulls the doors closed behind it. Use the Pola glue. Pola buildings are hard plastic and solvent is useless so i would use Pola or Bison hard plastic glue most of my Pola buildings have bean built 15 years and are still in one piece in my garden.
 
I have two of these.
My experience:
The door hinges are relatively delicate. Despite care, they can break.

They can be replaced with doll house brass, or small stainless.

The clerestory roof, and the main roof,are vulnerable to warping in really strong sun. These roofs are nowhere as thick as most Pola roofs.

Silver or white paint might help. It didnt here in mile high denver.
Alu foil or some other buffer is better. I have used the latter, and it works. Looks....better , ahem, after it gathers some dust. Felt, wood shingles, etc too.

If you must, i Suggest track stops ( yellow lgb) as opposed to buffer to use less space inside.

The auto close...imho... Is a pita and rarely works properly. At least not on my roundhouse building.

Its been years since ive requested any, but faller used to supply replacements parts gratis. Send in the build diagram with needed parts circled.
 
I'm not sure how to build it.. I like the look of it with the short shed road and long one, but you can't fit a big loco in that short one. The double track long one would be more useful but I don't think it looks as nice.
image.jpeg
 
That looks brilliant fits in well
 
I've found the walls can move about somehow and that I then end up with the roof not been in the right place But I'll sort it.. Does anyone leave there locos outside over night in loco sheds?
 
Another reason for not leaving locomotives in damp conditions is that any dampness on circuit boards can trash them when running as the biard heats up. Not something that happens all the time, but it is a concern. Just not worth it. Have a nice secure Damp Free insulated Shed to run your trains in overnight. Keep only low value Locomotives in that, high value ones take indoors. You could of course keep a wagon or 3 overnight in the loco shed. Would give the Station a starting set of Wagons. Plus something for a Loco to do when you start Operating.
JonD
 
Hi everyone, I am considering one of these now that I have freed up a little space. Simple question, for the track plan does the building assume the standard 165mm track spacing that you'd have after an R1 point and curve?
 
yes, that works, BUT

although its about 190mm track center to track center

if you run out a couple lengths of straight beyond the turnout and curved piece , before entering the shed, you can spread the straight entrance trackage just a bit. This is what I have done . its not perfectly straight, but, imho, its not obviously spread.

Because of this difference in width, I would NOT suggest having the shed immediately after an R1 turnout and curve, because a longer loco must be straight to clear and to enter the shed.
 
I am wondering what locos people are able to fit into the short length. All I can see in any photos is the inevitable Stainz :-) Pola say it is for locs up to 630mm length, so I presume the short one gives you 315mm. And by a matter of just a few mms, that seems to rule out both my U2s and Rugen.
Obviously I could go for the longer version on both tracks, but here I am struggling for space. It was a very good tip from Steve above to make sure that you have enough straight track before the doors. I don't have the kit yet, but I am playing with the track and it looks like with the max straight I can fit in, my OBB 2091 diesel just starts to swing out as it hits the curve, before it has completely cleared the building. Aaagh! Again only needs a few mms but I am just not sure yet that i can fit it in. Any thoughts?
 
RH Prague said:
I am wondering what locos people are able to fit into the short length. All I can see in any photos is the inevitable Stainz :) Pola say it is for locs up to 630mm length, so I presume the short one gives you 315mm. And by a matter of just a few mms, that seems to rule out both my U2s and Rugen.
Obviously I could go for the longer version on both tracks, but here I am struggling for space. It was a very good tip from Steve above to make sure that you have enough straight track before the doors. I don't have the kit yet, but I am playing with the track and it looks like with the max straight I can fit in, my OBB 2091 diesel just starts to swing out as it hits the curve, before it has completely cleared the building. Aaagh! Again only needs a few mms but I am just not sure yet that i can fit it in. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

can you slide the building back a tad? the loco should have overhang, of an inch or two, before the wheels come to rail end. Careful placement of the yellow track stops might just allow you to have slightly more room to exit without more track length. (from the photo it appears this might be possible....not sure about the curve behind the shed and any car and loco overhang and hitting the rear of the shed.

I have built both of mine full length, because.....while not as visually interesting, its far more functional. the short shed...useless for all but a stainz , otto, rail truck. FRR loco, I imagine (don't know first hand if a stainz will actually fit.)
I have occasionally left locos in the sheds, over night, to protect from the somewhat rare light evening summer rains we get in Denver. As much as to protect from splatter of soil as water. Spiders will eventually take up residence in the shed unless its routinely hosed out and cleaned.

But like others, even though we've had zero issues, I take my things in almost religiously, just because id be so upset if something were taken or vandalized....kids can be brazen.....and....our Mastiffs sleep inside.....
 
At one point, I had at least two in my online shopping cart... was trying to build a three unit berth with two three section long pieces and one two section long piece. Guess I’d have a single unit complete shed leftover (sans roof).

However, the total cart price got the better of me and I’m waiting on it.

I think for my second layout I’ll just have to build a complete scale model of Doncaster Works :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top