Polystyrene Sheets

So here is my problem with 'Foamex' products. Even the more experienced model makers argue about the products. When I look at Mike's models, the material looks like thick softish plastic which he can scribe on, stick together and use outside. That is what i am looking for. Stuart
If you look at my Boston Lodge thread that is all made from Plastic Coated Foamboard that you need. I find that is is pretty well impervious to sun unlike HIPS so do not be tempted by that. The prices may look expensive but that is for 8x4 sheets! Cut sizes work much better, also I got a mix of black, grey and white sheets in 5 and 3mm thicknesses. my Gauge 3 Steam Tram was also built using this stuff.

As an aside I got lucky with a shop refit of my local Lidl where masses of 5 and 10mm foamboard were dumped in a skip, I got around an 8x4 sheet of 5mm in big bits out of the skip but could get no more as it was firmly wedged in with old metal shelving.
 
As an aside I got lucky with a shop refit of my local Lidl where masses of 5 and 10mm foamboard were dumped in a skip, I got around an 8x4 sheet of 5mm in big bits out of the skip but could get no more as it was firmly wedged in with old metal shelving.

Same ethics! The 3R Club, ReClaim, ReCycle and ReUse..........

Never no what can found on one's travels, those discarded Estate Agents signage, yep they get picked up as well.............

Never knowingly opened my wallet unless absolutely necessary! :)

Ingenuity, imagination and bogeling, will suffice for most tasks! ;)
 
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So here is my problem with 'Foamex' products. Even the more experienced model makers argue about the products. When I look at Mike's models, the material looks like thick softish plastic which he can scribe on, stick together and use outside. That is what i am looking for. Stuart
If it is foam board for outside, as Mike uses it needs to be FOAMEX, craft/hobby foam board is NOT what you want.

They are, ordinary hand saw can be used to cut them, a useful tool is made by Tamiya,
has a curved blade ideal for scoring though the plastic outer layer, normal craft knife will easily cut through the core of the sheet.

I have one of these and they are great, especially for styrene sheet, FOAMEX will cut with a good craft knife/

Not mentioned yet is the differences with sticking these sheets together. I have found the GRS stuff (shiny one side) is somewhat immune to some of the more available sticky stuffs like Slaters Mek-Pak and Eileen’s Butone. However GRS sell Plastruct Plastic Weld that appears to work well with the GRE Plastic as does Plastic Magic. I also find that a sanding to clear the shine off with WetnDry helps the glues bond better. The evergreen and plasticard products must be a different type of plastic possibly attracting the higher costs?
I have a number of "plastic" glues including Slaters Mek-Pac, however for general styrne I use Revell Contaca, but for ABS and hard plastics I use Carr's Butanone. Be aware though polythene is almost impossible to glue with a "weld" adhesive.
 
As ever this has had some thread drift starting with polystyrene to which I was referring to in my choice of adhesives. For PVC or Plastic Coated Foamboard I use UHU Power backed up with Veneer Pins at the joins.
 
The plastic for sale signs at hardware and other stores work well although slightly thin. I just double or triple them up and they are inexpensive.
 
The plastic for sale signs at hardware and other stores work well although slightly thin. I just double or triple them up and they are inexpensive.
I got some for nothing once - election posters being taken down after voting!
 
As another source of all types of plastic sheet, foam and strip I can recommend the 4D model shop (modelshop.co.uk). They have things that I haven't found elsewhere and they'll tell you what glue works with what.
 
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