Redtail said:
Thanks Chaps to all the responses this thread has generated. Tag I look forward to your PM with the necessary.Dont forget it has a long way to come!! and to a Devonian
Dont worry Chris both my chuffers are money well spent. Many admirers up here in the far North
thanks Rob I will have a read of the article.
You feel a little out of it this far North with garden railways, so its nice to have friendly
advice to problems over the tinternet!
Timing an Accucraft generic locomotive
Poor performance can often be down to bad timing and given that Accucraft locos are not AFAIK actively steamed, the heating and reheating of a new locomotive can loosen stuff off. This can happen to any locomotive, but generally Roundhouse locomotives have steamings before sale, which will generally settle things down. Instructions for either suggest checking that everything is tight during the first few steamings.
To time your loco first of all put the locomotive starboard side down on a cloth covered surface. Move the lever on the reversing quadrant into the full reverse position. The scribed line on the reversing piston valve just below the smokebox should
just disappear into the steam chest. Try it a two or three times ? especially if your eyes are getting as duff as mine. If the valve goes too far in or is still visible, then loosen the locknut on the after end of the threaded section on the end of the piston valve. You will now be able to wind the valve in or out using the nut on the forrard end of the threaded section hard against the piston valve itself until it is in the correct position. Secure with the locknut.
Leave the locomotive on its side and we can check the position of the piston valve on the port cylinder. Turn the wheels clockwise and the scribed should start to disappear into the steam chest as the axle cracks reach 6 o clock and should have reappeared by twenty-five to.. If not adjust the piston valve as just described for the reverser valve. Turn the locomotive over and repeat for the port side.
The loco is now timed and will function. One can now make slight adjustments on a rolling road (or blocks). For instance it is almost impossible to get the loco running in
exactly the same way in forward and reverse gear. I therefore (if anything) go for a very slight forward bias cos I mostly run smokebox first. This is not enough to make bunker first running a pain but better this way than the other.
One can also do a quick check culled from my Merlin days. With the locomotive turning over at a steady speed put your heatproof finger on one of the cylinder piston valves and give it a slight forward bias or push whilst running. Try again but pushing back. If either of these makes a discernable difference to the running then the valve may be adjusted in or out very slightly as required. If it works better with a forward finger bias then turn the valve IN a quarter of turn ? and vice-versa of course.
Couple more bits and pieces.
Get a chuff pipe. They cost s*d all in the context of the loco price and are easy to fit, work very well and do not choke the exhaust.
Until Accucraft modify their firing system (which is being worked on at the moment) one can either exchange the burner for a Milton Loco Works one or modify the one you have. Easiest way is to use a bit of stainless steel mesh. Cut to the length of your burner tube and something less then the diameter of your burner. Form round a pencil then slide on the tube like a condom but with the butt joint opposite the slots. Wind your gas regulator right out of the shaft and lubricate threads and 0 ring with starters (KY jelly or Vaseline) then replace.
When firing your loco, half fill the gas tank before lighting. Bring up to steam, close the gas regulator then top up the gas. Much easier to light this way.
If you find that your loco has developed a ?weep? between steam chest and cylinder then the crosshead screws on the top of the steam chest will need tightening. This looks hard but isn?t. Remove the body shell ? depending on loco six or eight hex head screws and Accucraft provide the nut twirler to do this. Undo the linkage between the reversing quadrant and the bellcrank (usually just a nut on the bellcrank itself). Turn the loco on its side and undo the two or four hex head bolts holding the smokebox on. Remove smokebox. Undo the connection now revealed from the main steam pipe to the steam manifold between the cylinders. Use two spenners so that you don?t bend the pipes. Undo the six or eight screws holding the running plate to the actual chassis, usually two in the front, two in the middle and two on the back for a four coupled Accucraft.
You will find the whole lot, boiler and fittings, reverser etc etc, will just lift of the chassis ? superb design work making it so easy to work on. You will see the cross headed screws on top of the steam chests. ?Nip? these up, working with opposite screws like fitting a car engine cylinder head. Put the lot back together in reverse order (don?t forget to reconnect the reversing reach rod). You will not only have cured the weep but you will feel you know your locomotive much better.
Don?t use Roundhouse light oil. Use oil supplied or standard thick steam oil as sold at shows.
Do some serious running in, preferably on a line with expansive curves. You will find you get longer and longer runs and of course the burner will then become quieter. My Accucraft locos are no noisier than my Roundhouse ones.
Degrease below the footplate every few runs with water-based spray degreaser and a brush. Leave to soak in and then wash with a garden spray on ?jet? before leaving to drip dry in the garden and then over night indoors over a bit of old newspaper. Re-oil every moving part lightly with motor-oil. Don?t try this last paragraph with Roundhouse locos ? the running gear will rust. With Roundhouse use paraffin to wash down and degrease.
Hope above is useful.
