Preferred glue for LGB?

Mossala Hill

Registered
Hello,
I've just received an LGB Banana van off ebay with cracked steps, (the description did warn me). What's a good adhesive to use please?

Rob
 
I've used the Bostik for hard plastics before now which seems to work but I know there are others on here with other solutions (sorry about the pun)

Rik
 
From BASF's blurb about Luran-S:

Adhesive bonding
Examples of solvents suitable for adhesive bonding are methyl ethyl ketone, dichloroethylene and cyclohexanone. Parts made from different grades of Luran S may be bonded to one another, and furthermore parts made from Luran S may be bonded to parts made from ABS or SAN.

So... something with MEK should do the job it seems. There are various modellers glues that purport to be MEK based, eg Slaters "MEK Pak".

Pretty sure I've used my favourite plastic solvent "Ambroid Pro Weld" with success.
 
I tried MEK on a set of coach steps, it failed miserably, can only come to the conclusion that the coach steps are a different grade of plastic.

Maybe its the same on the wagon steps as well, although i have nowt further to contribute. Watching this with interest....
 
if it's just cracked and not snapped then I've had success with superglue, and a fillet of plasticard also superglued and painted to match, to strengthen it.
 
i dont know what the steps are made of, something that reminds me of nylon, but more flexible, but just as slick.
I too have a box car with broken steps. Never have had luck.
I've had my share of trying to repair them on a couple of used items ive purchased.
Nothing really adheres in my experience-and i no longer try.
mostly depends first and foremost on getting perfect alignment-and the stuff has a memroy once bent.

What i have tried to do:
first gently align everything, if this means counter bending in order to straighten, then
use a high quality contact cement -here its called 'quick grip'.

The nice part is that it become very tacky , will hold alignment, and has some strength depending on the application.
It is more like a cast, with overlying gobs gaining enough hold to work.
It will also, with concerted effort, peel off and leave everything clean-least effort and passable results-no damage if it fails. It is superior to ACC because it remains slightly flexible and thus doesnt break its bond with a tiny knock. This to me is paramount.

I have messed with epoxies too, and they have a better chance.
Often they are messy, sloppy looking, and are very difficult to get to set and look nice, often funky colors too. Even five minutes is a long time in certain problems, as the stuff drips and runs.

The last option, which is more effort, is to use a mini drill, (pin vise) and try an internal splint with a straight pin or whatever -provided there's enough plastic to do this. The plastic is very difficult to work, as its tough, and doesnt cut cleanly for the most part.
One can drill a hole, or create a channel. This takes a pretty good eye and alignment on thinner bits, but often will add just enough , along with glue, to hold up with gentle handling.

If it bugs you, find a replacement assembly
 
Carrs sell nastier stuff than Mek Pak. One of them is Butanone, might be worth trying. I think they sell another solvent that is even nastier.

Don't breathe in the Butanone, it really is nasty. Can make your nose bleed instantly!
 
My solution when I had a similar step come loose was to fuse some wire to the rear VERY CAREFULLY with a small Soldering Iron. Been in place ever since.

Do it outside as the fumes are pretty nasty.
JonD
 
Thanks all. I was about to try some neat MEK but on closer examination the steps are indeed that soft slippery plastic rathr than the stuff the body is made of so I suspect it wouldn't work.

What I've done is to warm the whole lot up with a hot air blower and hold it in shape while it cools down. The result is very satisfactory in that it's now set in the correct position and the crack's barely visible with no gap showing. Might try adding a pin as reinforcement later.

Rob
 
I have found LGB plastic to be impossible stuff to work with if it needs a repair. Nothing seems to provide a permanent bond.
 
As I understand it MEK PAK isn't actually MEK any more, as it is a carcinogen that has been banned for public use. I'm not sure if the real stuff is available now at all.

The plastic is LURAN-S as stated above by someone (edit - Nick npnpnpn-ish), a BASF product that is UV proof, it's not your normal, er, cheaper brand stuff. It is notoriously hard to bond,as others have found!
 
Hmm, maybe it was some other solvent then, I recall reading about it's formualtion changing (MEK PAK, not MEK!) in a model magazine some time ago but not where I read it. Off to search!
 
Aha, MEKPAK isn't MEK, it's trichloroethane.

Still not as toxic as I thought, but you don't want to be breathing it.
 
Yeah, I have the same memory regarding a change to the formula of MekPak some while ago.
 
Interesting link, Ross - that LGB no longer use Luran-S was new to me. I did comment quite some years ago that I thought the plastic in some Ballenburg coaches I bought felt different, and there was quite some discussion about it, with some agreeing and some not. Seems I was right. Makes a change. Mrs NHN assures me I'm never right!
 
ROSS said:
Not sure what plastic LGB used on this particular loco (Porter 0-4-0 )
I've found that the Lehmann Toy Train range, Porter loco, single balcony coaches etc, are not the same plastic as "proper" LGB, and do glue quite well with the usual solvents as mentioned.

A least, the bodywork does. Not so sure about steps & underframes.
 
i am loathe to mention this, but
acetone will melt the step plastic

yes i am positive of this


i havent mentioned it until now
because it is extremely hard to control
it will deface the sheen
take off the top coat if used on a swab leaving a dull and unsightly area
it evaporates so quickly that getting it to stay long enough to melt the stuff is very hard
i have used cotton swabs soaked in the stuff

i was not able to get a weld

but it WILL melt and soften the stuff
it is up to someone else to find a viable technique
 
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