Purpose built train R/C

gregh said:
I'd say the 1.6A is OK. I think you got it right first go! If you go down to 1A, you're likely to get it operting for normal loco currents.
(I couldn't find the maplin page you referenced above, so couldn't check the specs.)
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I couldn't find any more detailed specs but there is this generalised description

A range of compact circuit breakers with an auto-reset facility. Designed to withstand overload but to trip quickly on short circuits, the circuit breaker latches into an ‘off’ state under fault conditions and automatically returns to the ‘on’ state after a set period of time. If the fault condition still exists, the unit will immediately latch ‘off’ again. This process of checking the circuit will continue until the fault is cleared. The range is suitable for working at voltages up to AC 250V, and offers seven rated ‘holding-current’ values. Connections are via two solder tags 7mm long. Overall dimensions: 29 x 12.5 x 6mm. Supplied individually in the following ratings: 1.0A, 1.6A, 2.2A, 3.0A, 5.0A, 7.0A, 10.0A.

Rik
PS - I know it works because after wiring everything up I tried charging the batteries at 2A and couldn't understand why nothing was happening. Checked all the connections, even rewired everything and then had a 'Doh!!' moment. I now charge at 1.2A
 
ge_rik said:
gregh said:
I'd say the 1.6A is OK. I think you got it right first go! If you go down to 1A, you're likely to get it operting for normal loco currents.
(I couldn't find the maplin page you referenced above, so couldn't check the specs.)
Click to expand...
I couldn't find any more detailed specs but there is this generalised description

A range of compact circuit breakers with an auto-reset facility. Designed to withstand overload but to trip quickly on short circuits, the circuit breaker latches into an ‘off’ state under fault conditions and automatically returns to the ‘on’ state after a set period of time. If the fault condition still exists, the unit will immediately latch ‘off’ again. This process of checking the circuit will continue until the fault is cleared. The range is suitable for working at voltages up to AC 250V, and offers seven rated ‘holding-current’ values. Connections are via two solder tags 7mm long. Overall dimensions: 29 x 12.5 x 6mm. Supplied individually in the following ratings: 1.0A, 1.6A, 2.2A, 3.0A, 5.0A, 7.0A, 10.0A.

Rik
Click to expand...
I bought a dozen of a similar thing from Jaycar who were cheaper than online... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Circuit-...cal_Test_Equipment&hash=item5af145e341&_uhb=1 but they are slow blow... they switch instantly at 200% of the rated amperage so I just put 1.5 amp ones on my trams now as they are track powered and with lighting etc they normally draw around 2 amps. I think some sort of over current protection is ESSENTIAL if you are using battery power.
I've seen the damage a shorted battery can do... As an aside my neighbours house burnt down, car in the garage totally destroyed but did it explode??? NO....Strange really, every car on TV that has a smash explodes.... the fuel didn't even catch fire EVEN THOUGH THE PLASTIC PETROL CAP was melted and burnt...
 
Do you think the ones I'm using have the same sort of spec

- ie
Trip Current: Within 1 hr @ 175% load
Within 1 minute @ 200% load

I don't fancy running the controller for an hour at 175% load

Rik
 
I think they would be similar spec as they are "thermal" meaning of course that as the piece of bitmetal strip inside heats up due to the current flowing through it contact is broken when it gets too hot..... Maybe halve the value so that the circuit is tripped at 200%... If you are running with battery supply they will trip very quickly in the event of a short. The other way to do it is with a fuse, even then they have an "overload" factor built in and would need replacing periodically as even if they don't blow they get "fatigued" ( poor things)....
 
I use 3A car fuses on my 12v batteries for the trailer. They will adequately cope with 3 locos (and even four for period) but will blow instantly there is a problem like a derailment shorting out the track, etc.
I buy them in bulk!
 
Just corresponded with David T and he says he's going to work on the higher amp receiver/controller in the Autumn so if you're anxious about the ratings you might want to hang on for a bit. In the meantime he's happy to provide a receiver which will work with the Tx22 (the one which can control 12 locos) which can then be used with any ESC. This receiver (Rx100 - but ask for it to be compatible with the Tx22) is available for £12

Sorry, beginning to sound as if I'm acting as his agent - seem to have become a sort of go-between - no other connection than that.

Rik
 
I’ve also been talking to Mr T and just placed an order for one of his receivers and a Tx22 transmitter in kit form. I’ll let you all know how I get on with building it when I get it, and a chance to put it together. At least if it keeps on raining I’ll be able to get on with it.

He’s been very helpful all through a number of mails we’ve exchanged so I understand why you sound like his local agent Rik :D
 
DaveB2 said:
I’ve also been talking to Mr T and just placed an order for one of his receivers and a Tx22 transmitter in kit form. I’ll let you all know how I get on with building it when I get it, and a chance to put it together. At least if it keeps on raining I’ll be able to get on with it.

He’s been very helpful all through a number of mails we’ve exchanged so I understand why you sound like his local agent Rik :D
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Best of luck with the build Dave. It looks to me as if the main circuit board is supplied complete and all that's required is the easier soldering together of the main components so wish now I'd saved myself a few quid.

However, I've decided to use the lighting feeds off the circuit board but I need a magnifier to see them - so how I'm going to solder on to them I'm not sure. I think I need a smaller iron with a needle sharp bit - and maybe a new set of eyes!

I'll be interested to see how you get on, given the concerns about the current rating of the controller. Apart from my diesel with its stiff gearbox I've not so far had any problems (and then it's only in one direction and only occasionally) - but then I've only really tried it on two locos and the 4.5v IP speeder. I've ordered another couple of receivers and have re-motored my railbus in anticipation - just awaiting the delivery of a 12v battery from China. I also intend to make something with a Toytrain motor block (maybe a Southwold Sharpie - of sorts - though the wheelbase is a bit too long really!)

Maybe we can compare notes

Rik
 
Comparing notes sounds like a good idea to me Rik - yes no problem.
Obviously there's going to be something of a delay as I need to build the critter first and never having stripped a loco down that's an adventure too :)
I assume my first steps having put it together will be to test my work using it like one of those Aristo train engineer sets rather than an on-board system with 10 x AA NiMH cells for power. If that goes ok then I plan to fit it to an Annie, based on the instructions in the "eazy peazy" conversion thread.
I'll leave the lights as standard at first but, as I've ordered the Rx61 version, I'll be able to practice my soldering as there's presently no -W version of that.

I'll let you know how it all goes. Fingers crossed for good results.

Dave
 
Much excitement as the kit has arrived and hopefully this weekend I can look at putting it together.
If there's an interest I can take a couple of pics of the kit before I start it so if anyone's thinking of trying one they can see what they're getting in to. The PCA is small but to be fair the bits I need to put together are all quite reasonable to work with (he says before he fouls something up :clown: ) and without wanting to sound like a member of his fan club Davids been very helpful with all my questions.
Watch this space......
 
To add to Dave's most recent update. David (of Deltang) has now produced a receiver (http://www.deltang.co.uk/rx102a-22.... got a few more things running. Rik
 
Just a quick one to let you all know I finished the last of the wiring up of the transmitter this evening so thought I'd better [strike]have a play[/strike] test the result before finishing off the battery compartment and PCA insulator and finally screwing it together. I'm pleased to say it worked straight off having been bodged onto the chassis of one of those £10 round the Christmas tree loco's I bought from the local emporium a couple of years back that just happens to be G scale.

No big problems putting it together encountered I just followed the instructions and as I say it's doing exactly what it's supposed to.

Dave
 
Great news, Dave

I've just had a go at re-programming one of my receiver/controllers using the Programma module. I've reset the failsafe so the motor and other settings are held if the rx loses the signal. Took me a while to figure out how to use it and it might be considered a bit of a fiddle by some, but for £14 I think it's not a bad outlay to be able to configure the way each receiver and controller operates.

I'm presently working on a video to show others how it's done so will share here. It doesn't really make for entertaining viewing though - but might be helpful if someone is trying to figure out what to do.

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
I'm presently working on a video to show others how it's done so will share here. It doesn't really make for entertaining viewing though - but might be helpful if someone is trying to figure out what to do.
Click to expand...

Essential viewing Rik! I'm tempted to give the system another try based on your input. Any info is valuable, so please post it here. :thumbup:
 
whatlep said:
ge_rik said:
I'm presently working on a video to show others how it's done so will share here. It doesn't really make for entertaining viewing though - but might be helpful if someone is trying to figure out what to do.
Click to expand...

Essential viewing Rik! I'm tempted to give the system another try based on your input. Any info is valuable, so please post it here. :thumbup:
Click to expand...
Yes..... agree.... I read somewhere that " information is useless unless it's shared" forget who said it but it's on the money.... Amazing value/flexibility and practicality at the price this gear....
 
I suppose you could argue it's a whodunnit - except that we all know how it's going to end.
video=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqWU0zDRRQc

It does seem a bit of a fiddle and faff - but I suppose that's how he keeps the costs down. The programma module is an adapted receiver which he's reconfigured to act as a programmable transmitter - an then sells on for £14. I see it as in the same sort of league as a Sprog programmer. I'm thinking of putting it into a small case and adding a set of buttons for the programming - but for now I quite like the utilitarian hobbyist nature of the whole enterprise.

Rik
 
HI Rik , that's a very well explained video , great for someone like me, who has a problem with the tv controller /// Dave is there any chance of showing how you built the , transmitter kit - regards Dave
 
whizzo said:
HI Rik , that's a very well explained video , great for someone like me, who has a problem with the tv controller /// Dave is there any chance of showing how you built the , transmitter kit - regards Dave
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I'm an inveterate fiddler so just love this sort of dabbling, tweaking and [strike]far[/strike] messing about with stuff.

I wouldn't mind seeing how the transmitter build went. There is a sort of step-by-step guide on the Deltang website ( http://www.deltang.co.uk/tx22-kit.h...on the website look readily doable. Rik
 
The instructions on the DT website will give you a working transmitter from the supplied kit in a few hours, possibly quicker maybe a little slower. I'll put some words together about how it all went for me and post that up later, hopefully tonight.

You don't need to add much to the kit, the biggest thing being the interconnect wire. No "special" tools, soldering iron, solder, pliers, strippers, cutters. A drill, and I mean a Black and Decker not a Dremmel, some drill bits, Swiss files and a screwdriver.
There was only one snag I ran across - my fault :clown: which is sooo easy to avoid, and I'd prefer to use more colours for the connections to the Tx2 PCa than just white but that's just a poka-yoke, nice to have and easy enough to do.

Words to follow..........

Dave
 
Rik has done way more on the installing, test running than me so I'll defer to him but last night I did a very basic conversion and ran a toy diesel in about 15 min just to have something to check the Tx with.

Remove screws to lift off body
Unsolder existing wires to motor
Solder the two (supplied fitted) brown wires from the Rx PCA
Solder the red and black wires (supplied fitted) from the Rx to the battery pack.
Turn on the Rx power and wait for the light to start fast blinking
Turn on the Tx while holding the "bind" switch down.
Wait for Rx to stop flashing
Enjoy remote control.

OK you'll want to put the body work back on at some point and it'd be good the be able to see the Rx to check on the LED but you only need to bind them the once so you "could" hide it away and while there's a whole load of other things to explore like lights and remote uncoupling you could be running RC just about that fast as at it's most basic it's 4 wires.

Dave
 
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