R3 LGB points

Topogardenmike

Topogardenmike

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hi Guys

I have bought a pair of secondhand Radius 3 points. They are fine accept for a problem that has got me stumped. The switch rail element I.e. The moving rail is not conducting. I have tried cleaning the sliding contacts at the toe end of the points and dismantled and reassembled the copper spacer at the hinged end of the blade but still intermittent.

I am sure I have read somewhere that this is a known problem. I have searched the forum without finding anything but that's probably my searches. Help would be appreciated..

Mike
 
You could solder a some wire links here?

IMG_2978.JPG

I brought a 2nd hand one from another member and the point has worked fine since....
 
Has the previous owner removed links from underneath that bind the two rails together (maybe wanted to make the point isolate the unselected route)? Without those you're then relying on the sliding contact at the toe end.

LGB R3 links.jpg


I've had trouble with the hinged-end wipers on one of my R5 points, needed unscrewing/removing and thoroughly cleaning. Or add wire links as Gizzy suggests.
[edit] Come to think of it, I may had ended up soldering the copper hinge-wiper "L" thingy to the bottom of the rail. It was a while ago.[/edit]
 
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Common problem with older points - the contacts corrode. As Gizzy said - a jumper wire but it can be between the switch and stock rail if you prefer. and it needs to be flexible of course.
 
Rhinochugger said:
Don't like um - I'd sell 'em. Got rid of mine :rock::rock::rock:
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What did you replace them with?

I bought them because I want to make s sort of branch terminus to run my RHB stock and the coaches look a bit unrealistic running across R1 points but I have to say my R1s have been totally reliable.

Cheers

Mike
 
I have had my R3 points in use outside for a number of years without any problems. I carry out annual maintenance with WD40. The only points I have had a problem with were early Piko R5s. The wiring corroded and I replaced the wiring and added additional feeds as described above. The modified R5s have not caused any further problems.
 
Topogardenmike said:
What did you replace them with?

I bought them because I want to make s sort of branch terminus to run my RHB stock and the coaches look a bit unrealistic running across R1 points but I have to say my R1s have been totally reliable.

Cheers

Mike
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I'm using Aristo 10 fts now.

To be truthful, my big dislike of LGB R3s is the check rail problem - even LGB locos taking the leading curve bounce off the check rail. It's not got enough of a guide, and it's in the wrong place.
 
Topogardenmike said:
hi Guys

I have bought a pair of secondhand Radius 3 points. They are fine accept for a problem that has got me stumped. The switch rail element I.e. The moving rail is not conducting. I have tried cleaning the sliding contacts at the toe end of the points and dismantled and reassembled the copper spacer at the hinged end of the blade but still intermittent.

I am sure I have read somewhere that this is a known problem. I have searched the forum without finding anything but that's probably my searches. Help would be appreciated..

Mike
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Hello Mike - conversation started. Regards,Graham.
 
Well most of my LGB R3's work just fine with the exception that some of them create a short on the rails just after the frog. Happily is is only in the fiddle yard ones so I just put some insulating tape over the problem area. Needs replacing every now and again.

All of mine have had a hard life outside and I think that some of them have had the same problem as yours. I just solder jumper wires to resolve the problem as Gizzy suggested. Also I have done jumpers on the place that ntpntpntp shows in red. Plus also wherever those LGB pressed jumpers are at the frog. This has saved much heartache with running and if you glue ballast in place they are trickier to retrofit unless in view. Here if you do put wires in view anywhere would hertily suggest that you use Black Wire.
JonD
 
My points started playing up about 10 years ago. Open circuits on the pivots. In the end I went around the full layout & put flexible loops on each switch rail. Never had a problem since.

Points.jpg
 
This was my solution to the pivot connection problem, not visible in normal use
DSCN3445 (Small).JPG
 
dutchelm said:
My points started playing up about 10 years ago. Open circuits on the pivots. In the end I went around the full layout & put flexible loops on each switch rail. Never had a problem since.

View attachment 218193
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I think that my point about using Black Wire is amply demonstrated by this picture.

Not to discourage your posting or giving advice though dutch.

Another option is to use a short length of brass mains wire stripped of insulation, this will nicely discolour over time. Though in the above instance would not be so flexible.

Thread drift on
I use colour coded wire in many instances, reverting to Black for the visible section by joining and use of heat shrink.
Thread drift off
JonD
 
How about a smidge of copper grease on the blade end contacts and on the underside contacts as well.
I also fettled the blade end contacts to make them touch/rub againgst the underside of the blade ends better.
 
Hi guys thanks for your replies. I have a few options to go at. Interesting to note that jumper wires are a feature on prototype railways and I certainly knew of black and red ones. Now to see if my soldering iron has enough heat to do the job if not it's a new one!

Happy days

Mike
 
IMG_2984.JPG By way of final feedback here is my mod which seems to have cured the problem. I burnished the points of soldering with a wire brush in my Dremel. I chose these as my 35w soldering iron would not heat the rails enough for the solder to flow. I used 1mm cores out of twin and earth cable which should cope with any current. Seems to work really well. I think I will modify my new points as well before use.

Thanks very much guys for all your feedback. Might have seemed a fairly simple mod but your feedback gave me the confidence to have a go and it's now sorted. cheers
 
You can always use 145 degree solder with separate liquid flux - it's meant for brass :nod::nod::nod:
 
I ditched my LGB R3s they gave so much trouble, distorting and derailing stock. The replacement Piko,ones were the original ones, where the insulation on the connecting links melted and several of the (steel!) terminal screws were too long and rusted necessitating an overhaul within months of installing.
Touch wood they have now performed fine for several years.

I am rubbish at soldering but I have used a gas powered iron with aggressive flux successfully to solder to LGB track. Best to flush away any excess flux.
 
I am hoping these points are not to tight for body mounted Kadee couplings. Would welcome feedback
 
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