R3 LGB points

[Rhinochugger]

They're just under 8ft diameter.

Body mounted couplers are usually OK if all of the stock has them.

On tight radii, you have either got to have all bogie mounted or all body mounted.

I have managed a mix of body mounted and bogies mounted on LGB R3, but the body mounted coupler needs to be able to swing a bit. Bachmann body mounted couplers have a fair bit of swing - Accucraft have less.

Not sure how Kadees are mounted. If you mount them in Bachmann coupler pockets you'll be fine.

 

[Gizzy]

I am hoping these points are not to tight for body mounted Kadee couplings. Would welcome feedback

I know of one person of this parish who fits Kadees to all his LGB US stock, and also uses LGB R3....

 

[dunnyrail]

I am rubbish at soldering but I have used a gas powered iron with aggressive flux successfully to solder to LGB track. Best to flush away any excess flux.

I always wonder why people have so much trouble with soldering, some even considering it a dark art and not even trying. I know it can be frustrating when you get it wrong but there are a few simple rules to success.

1 Cleanliness of both parts. Use clean new wire wool to achieve this, if bits still look oily use lighter fuel and a clean cloth to remove any dirty residue. Allow lighter fuel to evaporate and use more clean cloth and new wire wool. Both parts should be shiny and clean.

2 Use a sufficient powered iron for the job in hand. 25w one will do nothing to LGB Track except make it warm. 70w or plus is what you need, the higher the better.

3 Tinning both parts of the job works wonders. A little Flux and some solder on each part of the job is what tinning is.

4 To joint parts put the iron on the Largest Part of the things to be joined this will normally be the Rail, touch a bit of solder to it and when it flows put the wire to be joined to the rail touching the iron if you can with both parts. The solder should flow instantly. Take the iron away and allow a little while to cool. This process can be speeded up by using a pair of Largish Flat Head Pliers as a heat draw to speed up the cooling process. When The solder has gone dull the cooling should be completed.

5 Give whatever has been joined a good tug after it has cooled to make sure that you have not created a dry joint. If you have, have another go.

6 it maks good snce to ckean up a satisfactory joint to remove any excess flux. This ca. Sometimes go green and will not take paint well.

This is not exhaustive, but those basic rules should help you get to grips with the joyous art of soldering. Something that I would find it impossible to be a Railway Modeller without having mastered.
JonD