R5/R7 points/turnouts/switches - comparisons

Martino

Martino

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Hi everyone.

I have used various points/switches. LGB R1 in the early days but they are too tight for me and I do have the luxury of some space. I have some LGB R3s which I got second hand, and which have performed well, however I want to replace some of these with larger radius points, and transfer the R3s to more 'off stage' locations. I have some Train Line R7s, which are equivalent to LGB R5. I like these, but they have a switchable live frog which is dependent on a moving magnet under the tie bar. I find that these do have a habit of failing which means removal and re-gluing, which is a bit of a pain.

So, do I move to LGB R5s which appear to have dead frogs like the R3s. This isn't a real problem but find they cause some connectivity issues with short wheelbase locos even with electronic flywheels?

Lastly Piko switches appear much cheaper. Is it a question of you get what you pay for?

Any advice chaps and chapesses?
 
Piko did suffer from corrosion problems (plated screws going rusty) but this can be sorted before you lay them.
I have some R5's (R3) and I don't have a problem even with the humid climate.
 
Martino said:
So, do I move to LGB R5s which appear to have dead frogs like the R3s. This isn't a real problem but find they cause some connectivity issues with short wheelbase locos even with electronic flywheels?
Click to expand...

From memory LGB R5s have electrically connected metallic strips in the base of the plastic frogs that connect with the wheels flanges. Provided these are kept clean they reduce the risk of stalling.
 
Neil Robinson said:
From memory LGB R5s have electrically connected metallic strips in the base of the plastic frogs that connect with the wheels flanges. Provided these are kept clean they reduce the risk of stalling.
Click to expand...

Yes that's right. Also it's not too difficult to replace the plastic frog V on the LGB R5 with a new one made from scrap rail, if you're handy with a hacksaw, files/grinder and a bit of soldering up. I converted both of mine and it does make a difference.

http://www.gscalecentral.net/track-track-laying/lgb-r5-%27live%27-frog-conversion/

<edit> Damn - photo of the final result seems to have gone awol on that thread? Will try and replace it when I get home. </edit>
<edit_some_more>Fixed the images!</edit_some_more>
 
[member=144]Neil Robinson[/member] - I've begun a conversion programme to LGB R5s after a two year trial. I have had no connectivity problems at all. The TL45 equivalents of R3 are generally OK but one or two have shown signs of failing conductivity and I don't rate their point machines - they rely on a plastic on plastic ratchet to move them, so any forceful movement of the blade is apt to strip the gear. (I'm also not convinced that the wheel profile of their frogs is ideal for LGB but that may simply be that we have "floating" track).
 
I use LGB R5 and I think they are a very robust point, and not seen any problems even with 0 4 0 locos on track power. the only issue i have had is that for some reason the Piko "lipped skates" on their rail bus doesn't like them.

I think they look nice visually which i think is worth the outlay.
 
Yep LGB R5 are good points but they do cause some makes of rolling stock/locos to bobble a little depending on the depth of wheel flange etc.
Also the metal strips in the frog can get a bit mucky due to being recessed.

On the 'Mainline' on my layout, I use LGB R5s with a couple of R3 (both LGB and Aristo) for spurs. It also has Aristo No6s ...now, those boys are loooong!

The 'local line now uses the same mix (originally it was all LGB/Aristo R3).
If I could change all the LGB/Aristo R3 to R5, then I would, if i had the space, but I have not tried the Train-line R7 (LGB R5 size live-frog, like the Aristo No6) variety......has anyone got experience of these?
 
Yes, I have used the Train Line R7. I've got 3 of them. They are nicely built and have live frogs with internal switching, by means of a magnet driven switch on the tie bar. That's the weak point (didn't intend the pun) as the magnet sometimes comes unattached and it's a 'challenge' to get fixed.

That's what's prompting me to try the LGB R5, and the fact that the LGB ones are about $20 cheaper.

The Piko appears to be even cheaper, but do you get what you pay for?
 
Piko, yes you get what you pay for. I have one of their large radius curved points. Works ok but the the spring mechanism is a bit flimsy and the point "lever" is just a bit of plastic that is a push fit into one side or t'other. A bird has made off with it. The trailing edges of the blades do not fit flush to the rail which can cause some risk of the point "switching" as a consist moves over it (!) from one direction. I am going over to an air powered system for all my points that should cure most of the problems on this one. There have been reports of corrosion on terminal wiring in the past.

Otherwise I use a mix of LGB R5, robust and reliable, and Garden Railway Specialist's handmade points and crosssings. They use LGB code 332 rail. GRS make Y's, single and double slips and geometrically compatible simple X crossings that add a lot of operational options to a garden railway over the standard manufactures stuff. Wood sleepers, add levers to suit. Work well and robust. Probably at a disadvantage if you have termites around.
Max.
 
Talking of radii, one mans R5 is another mans R3, and the like..
Two questions:
1. Is there a 'Things you need to know' entry on the Forum which shows the different makers equivalent curves and points?
2. Do those of you who have the GRS handmade points have any problems with wheel-flanges, and the 'spikes' holding the rail down? - I ask this, as when 'testing' on the multi-gauge track in the shop, I get a 'clunk, clunk, clunk' from a lot of stock on said track..

Thanks,
PhilP.
 
PhilP said:
........
2. Do those of you who have the GRS handmade points have any problems with wheel-flanges, and the 'spikes' holding the rail down? - I ask this, as when 'testing' on the multi-gauge track in the shop, I get a 'clunk, clunk, clunk' from a lot of stock on said track..

Thanks,
PhilP.
Click to expand...

I've never noticed that problem, Phil - when we have our winter running days indoors at Salcott, Stuart (Marshman) brings along several GRS handmade points for the temporary track layout, and the only minor problem I can recall (with a huge variety of locos and stock brought along by members) is an occasional bit of sparking from some loco skates when traversing these points. As an aside, the GRS points all have metal frogs, though I think that as a default they are isolated rather than wired as live. I've never been aware of any flange depth problems.

Jon.
 
Of course, the track in the shop may not have been made by the same person!
Thanks for the reply.. The effect had sort-of put me off GRS points..
 
I'd be very surprised if wheels running on code 332 track would ever suffer from the flanges hitting rail spikes, after all the rail profile is very deep. They'd have to be massive nails!
 
PhilP said:
I ask this, as when 'testing' on the multi-gauge track in the shop, I get a 'clunk, clunk, clunk' from a lot of stock on said track..
Click to expand...

Multi gauge track is often code 200 or 250, rather than the code 332 of the most common G scale manufacturers (LGB, PIKO, ART, USAT).

PECO G scale track is code 250, whereas their G1 track is code 200, but still 45 mm gauge.

Compare the rail height of your test track with the LGB on your layout and you will soon see....
 
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