Rail Clamps
- Thread starter trailsideGguy
- Start date
For track power they do need to be tight enough that you cannot pull the rails apart to maintain track power, too loose a fit and the rail inside the clamp would tarnish even more than it already does effecting continuity. Graphite paste in the joint helps. For your line with no track power the only benefit of clamps is security from being stolen or dislodged. But I think your line is Peco 16mm? Not sure if there are clamps for that, 16mm’ers tend to be live steam and battery power predominantly.
Yes my track is 16mm, but as I'm nearly out of No Mow May, it can't actually be seen!
I think the point I was making is that it seems that the clamps are being over tightened, surely a "nipping up" is all that is required, rather than the force required to break them.
PhilP
G Scale, 7/8th's, Electronics
You need a 'gas-tight' joint, to stop the ingress of moisture, and hence to stop tarnishing of the joint..
Also, you don't want them coming loose. - Do you only 'nip-up' electrical connections?
PhilP
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Yep, I go more than a 'nip up' both to get a decent metal to metal face, and to ensure that the track actually stays where I've put it.
Bearing in mind that you're using a little hex driver that's no more than three inches long, and that you're working at ground level so you can rarely get your fist around it, then I would say that you tighten them as much as your fingers will allow
Mine have been down about 6 years now without a need for tweaking, and a couple of lengths have been relaid due to garden movement
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
I suspect there is a torque setting for the material type and thread size, though few if any actually use it.
Rhinochugger
Retired Oik
Yep - the torque wrench is in the finger tips - I doubt that the average person could over-torque them.
However, I would be wary of using anything other than the small three inch long hex driver - get anything bigger, and I think you could start stripping brass threads.
Greg Elmassian
Guest
Unless you use stainless!
Actually, most people overtighten the screws... Hillmans had smaller diameter hex cap screws and they bent often... again looking at the pictures I posted, it should be clear how that happened.
Good advice from Rhino...
Actually, most people overtighten the screws... Hillmans had smaller diameter hex cap screws and they bent often... again looking at the pictures I posted, it should be clear how that happened.
Good advice from Rhino...
Yes, there is a recommended torque stated on most switch gear, and yes most people ignore it. The torque is usually a lot lighter (?) than you would think, and with the cheap and nasty terminals these days, it's quite common for the electrician to strip or break the connections. Our spanners are made short to prevent over tightening, and even with shear bolts, it's quite easy to get another half turn from them
Last time I saw a torque wrench it was a whopping great big thing, far to big for our use. I wonder if you can get smaller ones? But likely overkill, as Phil says you do need a gas tight joint. I have trashed Hillman Screws over tightening in the past and now tend to be a bit lighter. Of course now that I am dead rail less issues for current passing but still like them for security so needs to be nice n tight but not that much that the screw breaks.
As you say over tightening not required see my note above.
Greg Elmassian
Guest
JimmyB
Now retired - trains and fishing
Yep, centinewton/meter I assume