Removable Bridge.

liam0404

Registered
So my chosen direction for my track takes it over a path that is used quite often.
The track sits about 6 inches above the path and was looking at putting in some sort of bridge that can be placed in and out as required.
Anyone done anything like this or seen any good ideas?
Thanks.
 
I made a bridge out of UPVc sections that came from a neighbours conservatory roof, light enough to be lifted as it has an Aluminium insert, and its just over nine feet in length.

You will also need some sort of current continuity, be that rail clamps or other methods that have been posted on here in the past. I also use the hollow nature of the PVC to run power cables through.

P4180100 (600 x 450).jpg

P4180102 (600 x 450).jpg

Video showing all of it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1oOCOAvUwg

It all lifts out, but in practice only need to remove the last section. You can see the bridge clamps at approx. 28 and 37 seconds.

 
Or you could swing the bridge to one side like a gate. This bridge is in essence a plank with some uPVC trim to make the girders.
IMG_2750.JPG

IMG_2763.JPG


Rik
 
liam0404 said:
So my chosen direction for my track takes it over a path that is used quite often.
The track sits about 6 inches above the path and was looking at putting in some sort of bridge that can be placed in and out as required.
Anyone done anything like this or seen any good ideas?
Thanks.
There is some discussion of this subject here:
https://www.gscalecentral.net/things-wanted/hillman-lift-out-bridge-clamps/
I obtained a brass hinge kit from the USA, which converts a standard LGB 1200mm bridge into one that can be lifted up out of the way. At the opening end, Hillman bridge clamps (as mentioned in the above thread) provide a secure connection of rails when the bridge is lowered, and preserve electrical continuity, although being a belt and braces type, I also put a separate power feed into the bridge trackwork itself.
rly_0001.jpg
 
ge_rik said:
Or you could swing the bridge to one side like a gate. This bridge is in essence a plank with some uPVC trim to make the girders.
IMG_2750.JPG

IMG_2763.JPG


Rik

That is a nice bridge, Rik!.....
 
Yes looks very good but why does it need to be lifted out?

I just used a board and Hillman lift-out clamps, no problem at all but then we don't do track power.
 
I like the Hillman Clamp ideas. That will work for the one bridge as it needs to be lifted out completely, no place to swing or hinge it.
The other bridge can be though as its at the bottom of the garden and won't be in the way.
 
beavercreek said:
That is a nice bridge, Rik!.....
Thanks. The idea for using uPVC trim came from Rod Hayward on this forum's predecessor (G Scale Mad). His bridge was a lift-out made entirely from uPVC trim sections. A lot more impressive than my representation of the Southwold swing bridge.
gb64011.jpg


See - http://www.smegworld.org.uk/spaf/gb/gb.htm

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
Thanks. The idea for using uPVC trim came from Rod Hayward on this forum's predecessor (G Scale Mad). His bridge was a lift-out made entirely from uPVC trim sections. A lot more impressive than my representation of the Southwold swing bridge.
gb64011.jpg


See - http://www.smegworld.org.uk/spaf/gb/gb.htm

Rik


That, I want exactly that! Is it just the rail joiners that have been bent open so the track drop in?
 
liam0404 said:
That, I want exactly that! Is it just the rail joiners that have been bent open so the track drop in?

Looks like the case, but I would suggest you get Splitjaw Bridge Lift Out Drop In clamps.

http://www.railclamp.com/

I believe Dragon G Scale does them?

Seen these used on a layout in Ipswich....
 
liam0404 said:
That, I want exactly that! Is it just the rail joiners that have been bent open so the track drop in?
I think he just relies on his upvc guides on either side of the bridge for alignment
gb6408.jpg


More detail on his web page
http://www.smegworld.org.uk/spaf/gb/gb.htm

Rik
 
You could always have a bridge that swings out of the way ...

[attachimg=3]

[attachimg=4]

This is 11 feet long and has a drop-down leg with rubber tyred wheel so, once lifted clear of the bent-up connectors can be pushed out of the way.
 

Attachments

  • DSCF3556.JPG
    DSCF3556.JPG
    147.5 KB · Views: 84
  • DSCF3555.JPG
    DSCF3555.JPG
    168.7 KB · Views: 65
trammayo said:
You could always have a bridge that swings out of the way ...
This is 11 feet long and has a drop-down leg with rubber tyred wheel so, once lifted clear of the bent-up connectors can be pushed out of the way.
Very stylish, Mick. Looks like you've got a cunning plan to extend into next door's garden ;D

Rik
 
The lower part of my back garden is slightly lower (about 1ft) than the upper part. It was necessary to build a low embankment there but as it is a not too frequently used path it enabled a gap to be made in the embankment. This gap meant that the 'dam effect' caused by embankments was eliminated and a short (around 3ft.) bridge would be needed.

A swing, or lifting bridge seemed to me, to be a recipe for an inevitable train wreck if it were not closed when a train arrived. I had a small section just the right length as it happened, of a drainage channel such as used in driveways or similar. It is of box section with a small shallow section on top into which track ideally sits. There is sufficient room one side of the track for walkboards. The bonus with this particular bridge is that being of heavy metal it resonates when a train crosses over it - as does the prototype. Being no more than a foot or so above the path most people, including children, can step over it.
 
I would say you are spot on there Alan - I have to remember to make sure the points are set for the correct road (and don't ask how I know that) ;D
 
Yes, Mick. I had read about dams and sudden drops due to the absence of track before I built my railroad.

Live many folks, as the years advance I suffer from the 'going from one room into another lapsis memoria' issues so a wreck would be inevitable. :o
 
The interesting thing about memory lapses is that you do remember later - days later :)
 
So, will anyone admit to starting a train running, and then forgetting it is running?

I have 'nipped-out' to the shops leaving a loco running-in on the rolling road.. Usually, I keep an eye on them.. Just in case!
 
I'll admit to forgetting a loco, twice, only for them to drop off the edge of the earth, as they say.

Couple of scratches, and a broken pantograph, and the second one was lucky to come away unscathed, and it fell further.
Even done the daft thing of assembling a train only to push the first coach off the edge!!

Whilst there is no redress for me doing something daft, I can, and have installed an isolated section, on both sides of the bridge.
It is only live when the bridge is in, even if I install a jumper cable into the power feed plugs and sockets to replace the cable run
through the bridge.

A full speed test run with a light engine, it stops dead well short of the drop, but it only works if the loco is leading and if propelling the whole train is shorter than 6 feet.
 
Back
Top