Roundhouse battery loco, pre-purchase questionnaire

Mobi

Registered
Country flag
I fancy a Roundhouse battery loco but I have not seen Criccieth/Harlech Castle in flesh, so few questions for those who have used it (spending nearly a grand on a something which is a "toy" ::) means I have to be 100% confident before purchase)

Based on a very minimal user manual that is available on Roundhouse website:

1. Is the motor exposed? As per diagram in manual, if I turn the loco upside down, motor is visible and not encapsulated like LGB/Playmobil. This seems strange as I thought it would expose the motor to dirt, water etc.

2. There is no picture of the batteries inside the loco. Can you easily take the battery out and replace with a new set when needed (as in Playmobil 5258)?

3. Anyone measured drawbar pull of this loco? I asked Roundhouse and they replied loco should happily pull 20 lbs weight of wagons - but that is not same as drawbar pull.

4. How do you attach LGB/Playmobil carriages with this loco as it does not come with hook-&-loop type coupler?

5. Roundhouse says loco comes with 1-3 years of warranty (based on offers, registration etc.) but RC system is covered by manufacturer. So, if RC breaks down, then who is will fix it?

6. The manual shows there are lots of switches in loco RC transmitter. But it also says except a couple of them don't fiddle with them. Then why they are there in the first place? Looks like as if Roundhouse doesn't have a clue what the other switches for!

7. As it is battery powered, when battery charge depletes it will become slow and will stop. If the train is unattended, will such incident cause any damage to the loco? I mean, is it safe to run the loco until battery runs out and it stops (without damaging motor/circuit etc.)

8. Did you find any problem with your (Roundhouse battery) loco? Was it a DIY fix or you had to send to them for repair? Do you have to pay for the postage/courier? How long the repair took?

9. What is the nearest similar RC battery loco (feature, capability to haul etc.) you can buy off the shelf? (except Playmobil 5258 which is probably not a like for like comparison)

Any other info you think useful.

Thanx
 
IMGP0445-(1024x701).jpg

You may find this pic useful as it shows some possibilities. Criccieth Castle alongside a Danny (available from KGR) and a Little John.

For coupling to LGB stock you can remove the centre buffer from Criccieth Castle and replace with an LGB coupling loop. However I found it was too high to work properly so I made a loop and bracket from brass which sits just below the centre buffer and works well.

Criccieth Castle is the heaviest and most powerful of these three and has brass gears (Little John has nylon). Danny is not as powerful as either of the others and makes a whining noise in use - but I bought it secondhand in modified condition so that may not be true of all examples.

The battery pack in CC is removable and you can buy replacements from Strikalite. However you should not need to remove or replace for many years as it is charged in situ.

None of these locos are fully sealed underneath but it does not cause any problem in practice. I have run them in all types of weather.

Another candidate would be the Accucraft Baguley. Trackshack were selling battery powered versions of these until recently. I`m not sure if they are currently available and do not have one myself so cannot comment on how good they are.
 

Attachments

  • IMGP0445-(1024x701).jpg
    IMGP0445-(1024x701).jpg
    139.8 KB · Views: 37
I think Accucraft Baguley requires 2.6 ft radius. I only use LGB R1 so it won't run in my track :(

Also, price of loco is same whether I buy direct from Roundhouse or any of its dealer shops. I thought buying direct from Roundhouse would have cost a bit less.

Wish Amazon could sell these! I got my LGB starter set for a good price from Amazon.
 
I don't think stockists or agents of, or for, Roundhouse would be very happy if the manufacturer undercut them on price!
 
Hi Mobi. I think the best thing with an investment like this would be to get to a few shows or local running days (say your nearest G Scale Society local group) and have a chat with a few of the "old hands". Nothing beats seeing things in real life rather than internet pictures etc. You never know too at some of the shows just what you might get on the second hand tables. Even if it means a bit of a travel, and associated cost, there is just so much to be gained from some "hands on" time before you make up your mind. Surprising just how many question you never thought of asking get answered when you are at your first few running days!

Oh and for my penny's worth I have seen some Criccieth Castle in the flesh and they are rather nice, but then so to the Accucraft Baguley :) So many nice things out there ;)
 
Hi Mobi, as JR says get along to a local group. You may however find more of these around at a 16mm Society Group. You do not say where you live in your Profile so cannot recomend any to you. Please sseriously consider updating your Profile a bit, even if just the County in UK should you have worries about oersonal data on the net.
JonD
 
Regarding your question 4, coupling LGB carriages, you can use a universal coupling adaptor.....otherwise known as a paper clip ;)

Regards
Peter Lucas
MylocoSound
 
Not sure, but Rounhouse may be able to supply one with an LGB Type Coupler. Certain that they would be able to have some kind of adapter. In the past Inhave used a coupling that replaced the Buffer on Roundhouse Loco's. Got these from Brandbright, but as they are now winding down for a well earned Retirement they are no longer listed.
JonD
 
Mobi said:
I think Accucraft Baguley requires 2.6 ft radius. I only use LGB R1 so it won't run in my track :(

Very odd. The Accucraft website shows the minimum rad for the Baguley as 2' 6", but the downloadable instruction sheet states "2 Feet (600mm or LGB R1)"

http://www.accucraft.uk.com/content/uploads/INSTRUCTS-BAGULEY-DREWRY-Mk-2.pdf

I wonder if the instruction sheet was a edit from the Mk1 Baguley Instructions? The Mk1 was R1 compatible as it had flange-less centre drivers.
 
I checked with Track Shack. They could convert Baguley to RC but Accurcraft won't be making any more this year :'(

Regarding R1 compatibility, track shack says 2.6 ft for 32 mm and 2 ft for 45 mm. Also, they can replace the flanged middle wheels with non flanged one so that it is LGB R1 compabile.

They said RC conversion (loco + battery + RC + conversion cost) will be similar to price of a Little John.

However, I think it is still good as Baguley looks much better than Little John.
 
Accucraft Baguley is a nice little loco, though built to a larger scale than typical LGB and can look odd with the two brands next to each other. I have one of the early ones with the cheap and cheerful chassis (bit noisy, rough wheels that get dirty very quickly), but I understand the new chassis design is much better?

I fitted a cheap sound card and some LED front/rear lights to mine.
 
[quote author=ntpntpntp link=topic=301384.msg353349#msg353349 date=1434106978]
Accucraft Baguley is a nice little loco, though built to a larger scale than typical LGB and can look odd with the two brands next to each other. I have one of the early ones with the cheap and cheerful chassis (bit noisy, rough wheels that get dirty very quickly), but I understand the new chassis design is much better?

I fitted a cheap sound card and some LED front/rear lights to mine.
[/quote]

I have the Plastic Chassis Mk1 too. Converted to 2.4GHz Battery R/C (Planet T5 TX/RX - Strikalite battery back and Viper esc), fitted with Acme sound card.

Since the R/C conversion it runs like a dream and has become one of my favourite locos.

baguley.jpg
 
I think my contribution would be to ask if you have had battery rc before? Do you normally run track power? What is it for- will it just be watched going round and round, or do you "operate"?

If you are dabbling in rc/batt, and want a round and round loco, what about getting a LGB 040 diesel on the cheap and putting a 7.2v pack with a dpdt switch in it? This will cost less than 10% and will pull well, be reliable and then you will know if battery is a route for you?

Just a thought. I also think the baguley is a lovely looking loco.
 
That last post is, I think, very important. I started with R/C and enjoyed using that method. Reading the problems members here had with poor connections with track power, the need to clean track etc., I swore never to use track power, but then I bought a track powered loco and found the experience was quite different from using R/C. You seem to be more in touch with the loco, maybe the difference is that you are driving it with track power whereas with R/C you are just controlling it. I still have two R/C locos and they come out because they can be put on the track, batteries put in and the R/C switched on and they're away, but when I have a permanent track powered layout set up in the garage, I suspect they will be used less often as it will be as easy to run a track powered loco as an R/C and it is more fun and satisfying to do so.

Just my experience; others may have had the opposite one.
 
I think my contribution would be to ask if you have had battery rc before? Do you normally run track power? What is it for- will it just be watched going round and round, or do you "operate"?

I have a small layout and only 2 locos - Stainz (LGB 78400) and Playmobil 5258


Reading the problems members here had with poor connections with track power, the need to clean track etc., I swore never to use track power,

Exactly! I am tired of baby sitting track powered loco! Yes, it is easy to run track powered loco anytime (no need to have charged batteries) but the poor connection frustates me.

I am planning to expand my track length and I dread having to maintain a larger track for electric connection.

I get more fun out of Playmobil loco than LGB Stainz.

At present I "watch" but when my layout will be larger, I might "operate" as well.

My ideal RC loco would be similar to Playmobil 5258 but with metal wheels and metal chassis.
 
Similar story to me. :-)

Several people will sell you kits for battery conversation and, if you pick the right loco, can be a simple job to convert from track power to battery.

I would recommend the services of Peter Spoerer:

http://www.peterspoerermodelengineers.com/90275/info.php?p=1

For about £130, depending on options, you can have a ready bonded and wired set, so all you need to do is disconnect the track pickups and wire it to the motor.

That way you can pick from a wide range of locos but you do need something with a bit of room. Can be done with a Stainz but beyond my skill level. :)
 
Hi Mobi, given your response I would be slow to spend a grand on a RH rc loco just yet- my opinion of course. They are lovely things, but maybe go a bit slower in your experimentation. You can fit RC into small locos some one like Tony Walsham will really help, or I am sure any of the other recommendations. it is very simple these days. where are you? I would be happy to show you my kit sometime.

If you go for a cheaper LGB diesel and start with just a battery and switch (you'll enjoy the sense of achievement getting it working) and then start from there... when you first put it out to watch you'll be amazed by how it runs along smoothly for hours and hours!
 
Over the past two years I've converted from track to battery power and not regretted it. I now have twelve battery locos, some kitbuilt, some conversions and some scratchbuilt with motor blocks from LGB and USAt. None of my locos has cost me more than around £150, including the r/c gear, and some less than £100. I know Roundhouse locos are virtually bombproof, but as has been said earlier, there are cheaper ways to start off in battery powered rc if you want to dip your toe in and test the water.

Rik
 
You guys are right. All I want a simple nice looking RC loco. Unfortunately there is nothing I can buy off the shelf.
I am in Bedfordshire by the way.
 
If Roundhouse (or their dealer) supply you with a radio, then they (your supplier) are responsible for warranty on loco and radio - End. That's It. No question. Go talk to Trading Standards - who will palm you off to Citizens Advice! Its the retailer - always.
 
Back
Top