Roundhouse battery loco, pre-purchase questionnaire

And I found this already R/C converted loco which is available from Germany....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Train-Line-45-Wireless-Diesel-locomotive-Deutz-V3-Track-G-for-LGB/281580745822?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D4d4e49ef2dc14eb6b5b823a546af25ec%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D381066481033&rt=nc
 
What is the difference between Bachman and LGB locos? Is one easier to take apart than the other?

I find LGB locos finely detailed. Bachmann example looks bit toyish (although if it is easier to work with I might have a go) and comes with US style coupling.

Piko loco may have same problem because cab is in the middle? when I first entered into this hobby I was somewhat encouraged (in this very forum) to choose LGB over Piko for long term reliability and robustness of the motors.


Regarding the already converted RC loco from Germany, I really don't know any characteristics of that loco e.g. how good is pulling power, type of RC etc. From the description it appears that as soon as you release the button the loco stops (i.e. no continous running as in Playmobil RC).
 
I think once you find the right loco you just need to take the plunge! There is nothing like taking it apart and getting something done to learn. when doing this, one has to accept that once you've messed around with it it may not have identical resale value- but this is for your enjoyment not an investment anyway! i suppose i mean try not to worry about it. Just think of the saving over a RH. I guess the Nike slogan comes to mind - Just do It ;D you will have a very robust, smooth runner delivering all the utility a £1,000 RH would.... Anyway over to you ;)

BTW on pulling -well once the 0-6-0 Zerogee and I recommended above (the last of the three links) has batteries on board its going to pull way more than it would ever do in real life! however not really being 6 wheels, but more that anything with a hefty battery pack on board will pull a shed over :-)
 
Gizzy said:
And I found this already R/C converted loco which is available from Germany....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Train-Line-45-Wireless-Diesel-locomotive-Deutz-V3-Track-G-for-LGB/281580745822?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D4d4e49ef2dc14eb6b5b823a546af25ec%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D381066481033&rt=nc
Click to expand...

That one (from TL45) is factory-produced but a bit of a hybrid - it's got R/C control via a little keyfob transmitter, BUT it still picks up its power from the track, rather than onboard batteries! However it can be converted to battery power with a battery pack installed in the cab, and you'd already have a basic R/C system installed. The hood on these is full of a big weight block, hence anything added will have to go in the cab....

For an analogue version of the 0-6-0 diesel, you'd need to look for an LGB 2062 or 2063.... but you're right, they do seem to be in short supply on the second hand market right now. There are a couple on German eBay (eBay.de), but the asking prices are quite high. I picked up a blue 2062 a couple of years back as a chassis donor for a project, and got it from Germany from about £120. Maybe, despite what I said earlier, it's going to be easier to get a black DCC one - there are quite a few about because it's been sold in DCC starter sets - and simply take the decoder out and re-sell it?

Jon.
 
Of course this is generalisation, but yes LGB is robust and can absorb punishment. Probably more so than Bachmann. But just my opinion.
 
Mobi said:
Bachmann example looks bit toyish (although if it is easier to work with I might have a go) and comes with US style coupling.
Click to expand...
Based on a real loco, although it is an Europeanised version of a US machine. It can be brought with hook and loop couplers afaik?

Piko locos are fine, and although it is a centre cab, there is more room inside compared to the smaller LGB Schoema loco.

I don't know anything about the TL45 loco but I know Zerogee owns one....
 
How difficult is to take the DCC/MTS part out of the loco (in case I can't find a suitable analog model)?

Also, can I run a DCC loco in my analog track (before taking it apart, I need to make sure it works fine as track powered)?
 
Mobi said:
How difficult is to take the DCC/MTS part out of the loco (in case I can't find a suitable analog model)?

Also, can I run a DCC loco in my analog track (before taking it apart, I need to make sure it works fine as track powered)?
Click to expand...

Yes, a DCC-chipped LGB loco will run just fine on analogue also, so no worries there about testing it.

Taking the DCC board out won't be at all difficult once you've opened up the loco. All the connections to the board will be by plugs and sockets, and the board will just be retained by a couple of screws.

Jon.
 
Mobi- especially for you. You seem to have haulage as a requirement - it won't be an issue with onboard batteries- I have a home office so I just stepped outside and did this test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sxVMHPPPuAQ

Set up - LGB 060, Nimh 12v Battery Pack- RCS Radio kit (one piece ESC four wires- two to motor two to battery!) Tony Walsham owns RCS and is on this forum.

Hope this helps, now best get on with my to list!
 
AFAIK all LGB locos run fine on R1 curves. That's why going with LGB is relatively safe bet.
 
Is it going to be a good candidate?
http://www.spur-g-news.de/piko/2014/v36_rollout/piko_produktion_v36_20_2014_3.jpg

Will it run on R1 curve?
 
Mobi said:
Is it going to be a good candidate?
http://www.spur-g-news.de/piko/2014/v36_rollout/piko_produktion_v36_20_2014_3.jpg

Will it run on R1 curve?
Click to expand...

They seem to be good locos, at a very good price - I've not seen inside one so don't know how much space there will be (nice big body, but there will be weights and stuff in there). Yes, they WILL do R1, which is why the chassis is articulated instead of rigid, but running round a tight R1 loop for a long time might put a bit of a strain on the chassis.... don't get me wrong, Piko are very good and excellent value - but still not quite as "bulletproof" as LGB mechanisms.....

Jon.
 
I see. I shall stick witu LGB then.

Regarding DCC locos, what will happen if I send battery voltage via multipurpose socket? If it can run via DC track voltage will it not work via same voltage sent thru socket?
 
Mobi said:
I see. I shall stick witu LGB then.

Regarding DCC locos, what will happen if I send battery voltage via multipurpose socket? If it can run via DC track voltage will it not work via same voltage sent thru socket?
Click to expand...
In the majority of cases yes.. With the caveats of anything shorting the track mentioned before..
The on e fly in the ointment, is that it IS possible to turn off analogue running within the software of the decoder.. This would mean the loco would not run with the decoder still fitted either from DC on the track, or DC through the socket.

But really you are worrying too much!
Find a cheap loco you like the looks of, and have a go.. Minimum to get going is a set of AA batteries in a holder, wedged on the loco, and the wires from the holder stuffed in the socket (if the older round ones). If you get serious, a DPDT switch would allow you to go forwards, and backwards. - All admittedly at one speed, with no control.
BUT, you could then see how fast it would go with what voltage, AND you have 'proved the concept' of battery power.

Guarantee if you try this, on a circle of track, and it raises a 'smile' you are on your way.
PhilP.
 
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