Roundhouse Darjeeling - looking for advice

I just wanted to add another option to the list of input you've already received

To be clear, I'm not necessarily advocating this - I think all of the fantastic advice already been given should address whatever the cause is.

If having tried everything though you find you just can't 'get on with it' control-wise, a Slomo device would likely give you the slow, scale control you're looking for.

Slomo

As I say, it shouldn't be 'necessary' (as a very well respected and experienced member of the live steam community reminded me when I was thinking of one :) ) but it *is* an option, has a lot of very positive reviews and if the loco has no issues, should give you what you want.

I'm a firm believer in the right answer being whatever restores your faith in the lovely little Darjeeling and ensures you get to enjoy it..
 
All good advice. I did note your comment about it not operating like your DCC equipped sparkies, and your initial comment about seeing one at the show running slowly, not rushing around.

Your DCC-equipped locos almost certainly have an "inertia" setting, which slows their response to throttle input. Our model steam engines are, relatively speaking, quite powerful, so simulating inertia is tricky. (There's a complicated, expensive device called a "Slo-Mo" made in Oz - maybe the loco you saw at the show had one fitted.) The only practical solution to taming a live steamer is to use real inertia - a lot of weight. Pulling a heavy train will tame most runaway locomotives.

Another option to tame a live steam loco is to improve the throttle control. All R/C systems are not created equal. Andrew's comment about fitting a Deltang to his Lady Anne is relevant - I have a similar system from RCS that uses knobs, not sticks, which I find give much finer control. For example, my throttle knob turns over 3/4 turn, compared with about 1/4 turn on a stick transmitter. The more rotation, the finer the control. An RCS TX3 would be a simple update to your R/C.

DU-Tx3-v1.jpg


There are 2 other mechanical options for finer control. First: The Train Dept in NJ offers finer throttle shafts that give more graduated control for Accucraft locos. Roundhouse throttles are not usually in need of replacement, but it is a thought.
Secondly, and more easy to implement, the throttle is turned by a servo. The degree of mechanical control of the servo over the throttle arm also makes a difference to the fine control. If you find the loco runs too fast at full throttle, then you can change the actuator arm to a longer one. The servo will operate through a shorter arc thus giving you more and finer control of the arc, and cutting down the top speed. This diagram shows how the length of the actuator arms affects the amount of turning. (The drawing was done to show the reverse - getting more movement. But just swap arms and you see the difference. If the throttle arm is longer than the servo arm, it will move less than 90 degrees.)

image022-C16-throttle-diagram-6.jpg
 
Thanks once again for the suggestions. With so many folk wishing me well on this I feel I really must get my little loco running better And giving me the enjoyment I’d hoped for. Watch this space!
 
Ralphmp said:
Thanks once again for the suggestions. With so many folk wishing me well on this I feel I really must get my little loco running better And giving me the enjoyment I’d hoped for. Watch this space!
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I would second the SloMo, 2 of my Roundhouse 0-4-0’s have it fitted and the transformation is phenomenal. This short vid gives you an idea of how much better the control is. Oh it also has a Summerlands Chuffer fitted which gives a much better exhaust sound.
 
I know 2 chaps who have these, both worked fine straight from the box, but I think they use a different RC set up
 
Afternoon Ralph.
I am a member of the 16mm West Herts and Bedfordshire area groups, once all of the Covid19 restrictions have been lifted, I would be more than happy to help you steam up your loco, we have loads of members who are full of a great deal of knowledge and knowing them, they would welcome you to our group and help you learn to run, we would also invite you to the group meetings, so you could experience running on other peoples lines.

I will send you a message with my number on it.

Regards Stuart Timms
 
Stuart Timms said:
Afternoon Ralph.
I am a member of the 16mm West Herts and Bedfordshire area groups, once all of the Covid19 restrictions have been lifted, I would be more than happy to help you steam up your loco, we have loads of members who are full of a great deal of knowledge and knowing them, they would welcome you to our group and help you learn to run, we would also invite you to the group meetings, so you could experience running on other peoples lines.

I will send you a message with my number on it.

Regards Stuart Timms
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Stuart Timms said:
Afternoon Ralph.
I am a member of the 16mm West Herts and Bedfordshire area groups, once all of the Covid19 restrictions have been lifted, I would be more than happy to help you steam up your loco, we have loads of members who are full of a great deal of knowledge and knowing them, they would welcome you to our group and help you learn to run, we would also invite you to the group meetings, so you could experience running on other peoples lines.

I will send you a message with my number on it.

Regards Stuart Timms
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I must know you from the WHAGs
 
Paul M said:
I know 2 chaps who have these, both worked fine straight from the box, but I think they use a different RC set up
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Both my Roundhouse Locomotives have Peter Spoerer OMNI Transmitters (Tx) as well as his receivers (Rx (equivalent now available from Fosworks)). Swopping the Rx out was a simple job using all the existing wiring with battery connection and the operation so much sweater using them. Note also that I have retro fitted a Lanyard, these are quite expensive so you do not want to drop them.

image.jpg
Other similar (Deltang to name but one) makes are also available rather than the awful racing car, boat, plane type transmitters that Roundhouse supply with their RC Locomotives. I think with them it is a ready availability and cost thing to RH. Note to the best of my knowledge the alternatives also require Rx with the revised Tx.
 
The RCS controllers are really sweet. I use one for my wife's Pearse 0-4-0 switcher. And in time it will also be used on my Roundhouse Lady Anne. The other item you should spend some $$ on is the SSP Slomo inertia device for your Darj locomotive. These TOTALLY transformer how the model behaves, especially on the slow speed side. It gives the model the momentum that the massive weight of the real one has. So the model is not a jack rabbit/taking off like a scalded cat, and then will coast to a smooth stop instead of sliding to a stop if the regulator is closed quickly. I have one on order for my Lady Anne. These devices make RC control almost not even necessary if one has a raised railway. But with RC it is even better. While the Slomo device is not cheap, I believe its 380 austrialian dollers, they are well worth the money!!!! AD

Account Suspended

smallsteamperformance.com.au smallsteamperformance.com.au
 
Thanks again for all the helpful comments. Hoping to get my loco running again soon so will update you all then.
 
So, as promised, an update (much later than intended…) on my little Darj. Regrettably, Flu and treatments for my health issues have put paid to me doing much in the way of railways for some time. However, today was a good day - I finally brought the Darj back to life using the good advice given above!

The little loco performed like a champ - lit first go, steamed up ok, safety valve popped at just the right pressure and when run on the rolling road everything went as I’d hoped. I also did a few circuits of part of my layout (fair bit of maintenance needed to bring it all back into service!) and the little loco was a big hit with my 2 year old granddaughter!

So now I have the loco back in service, I need to start trying out some of the suggestions above to see if I can improve my control of the loco. Hopefully I can do a video of it running.

Best wishes and thanks again for all the advice.
 
Ralphmp said:
So, as promised, an update (much later than intended…) on my little Darj. Regrettably, Flu and treatments for my health issues have put paid to me doing much in the way of railways for some time. However, today was a good day - I finally brought the Darj back to life using the good advice given above!

The little loco performed like a champ - lit first go, steamed up ok, safety valve popped at just the right pressure and when run on the rolling road everything went as I’d hoped. I also did a few circuits of part of my layout (fair bit of maintenance needed to bring it all back into service!) and the little loco was a big hit with my 2 year old granddaughter!

So now I have the loco back in service, I need to start trying out some of the suggestions above to see if I can improve my control of the loco. Hopefully I can do a video of it running.

Best wishes and thanks again for all the advice.
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Good New :) I think before you spend any money, run your loco a bit more and get used to the control, as it has been said controlling a steam loco is worlds apart from electric ones, Here's a bit of advice from the big railway.
Starting off (as Tony said) open the regulator about 1/2 to 3/4s then just ease it back a bit when the loco moves, once on the move you have to remember a couple off things, if you have curves and gradients, before you arrive at them you need to open the regulator more as you need more energy to over come the friction and because of the time delay that you get from opening the regulator to the steam................................ getting to the cylinders, the same applies in reverse, as you leave the curve, reach the summit, you should ease the regulator so your loco doesn't speed off, you can't beat practise or as is said on here "testing" ;)
on the big uns, if you first drive a tank loco, it responds quite quickly as it has no super heater so the steam goes from the regulator to the cylinders via the smoke box, but when you get on something like Tornado for example, the steam has to travel further, from the regulator mid boiler to the smoke box, enter the super heater tubes, thus going back down the boiler and back to the smoke box before going to the cylinders, plus with large driving wheels, means you have to be a bit more gentle with a bigger loco.
Hope this helps knowing how our little uns work, you have to drive them and that's the fun
 
Pete

Thanks for taking the time to provide some clear guidance. I fear that part of the issue is my own stupidity - 45 years in IT telling people on countless occasions to RTFM and I still can’t follow my own advice .

The key part I’ve missed until re-reading the Roundhouse manual to see how I can to implement your advice was the bit that says “open the regulator slowly…”.!!!

Like a complete prat I’ve been opening the regulator fully and using the reverser control on the remote to set the speed. So, lots of wheel spin, lots of steam, lots of the scalded cat syndrome and lots of cursing. Hopefully I’ve not done any damage.

As it’s not due to rain today I may have another crack and hopefully have better results. I’ll post an update when I get chance.

Thanks again
 
Ralphmp said:
Pete

Thanks for taking the time to provide some clear guidance. I fear that part of the issue is my own stupidity - 45 years in IT telling people on countless occasions to RTFM and I still can’t follow my own advice .

The key part I’ve missed until re-reading the Roundhouse manual to see how I can to implement your advice was the bit that says “open the regulator slowly…”.!!!

Like a complete prat I’ve been opening the regulator fully and using the reverser control on the remote to set the speed. So, lots of wheel spin, lots of steam, lots of the scalded cat syndrome and lots of cursing. Hopefully I’ve not done any damage.

As it’s not due to rain today I may have another crack and hopefully have better results. I’ll post an update when I get chance.

Thanks again
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Hm “opening the regulator fully and using the reverser control on the remote to set the speed” was indeed not the way to do it. Had a guy at my line once running my RH Jack, it was running very lumpy unlike normal. I questioned him what he was doing, it turned out he was trying to use the valve gear (reverse control) to ”notch” the loco up. He failed to understand that the valve gear is not a true Walschaerts gear till I showed him it close up.
 
Ralphmp said:
So, as promised, an update (much later than intended…) on my little Darj. Regrettably, Flu and treatments for my health issues have put paid to me doing much in the way of railways for some time. However, today was a good day - I finally brought the Darj back to life using the good advice given above!

The little loco performed like a champ - lit first go, steamed up ok, safety valve popped at just the right pressure and when run on the rolling road everything went as I’d hoped. I also did a few circuits of part of my layout (fair bit of maintenance needed to bring it all back into service!) and the little loco was a big hit with my 2 year old granddaughter!

So now I have the loco back in service, I need to start trying out some of the suggestions above to see if I can improve my control of the loco. Hopefully I can do a video of it running.

Best wishes and thanks again for all the advice.
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YAY!!!
 
And then, once you are completely happy with running it, you will have the opportunity to spend some time making it look like a "real" Darjeeling B Class. Some good photographs will be a great help. The one thing that bugs me about the excellent Roundhouse model is that they supply it with a blue boiler wrapper. The wrapper is black on the full-size locos in India. To be fair though, Roundhouse will supply with a black boiler if asked to do so.
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Paul M said:
Ah, yes but on my Accucraft models, Lyn and Caradoc, that is the way to do it! Indeed that is how the factory fitted R/C unit works.
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Perhaps so Paul, but we are talking Roundhouse here. Though to be fair any live steam loco does need an initial charge of hot dry steam then throttle back, but with a RH that throttle back does need to be quick. Tricky to get used to for a beginner, better to start slow see how things are going before ramping up to the full regulator.
 
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