Scratchbuilding a G-scale Engine Shed

hi so are u goin to get a buffer end to stop the loco going through at the back end?
 
Looking really good James - the product used behind showers is not MDF. It is a type of plasterboard but is more like concrete than plaster. It is very hard but other than being awkward to cut, would probably work well for model buildings. I am thinking of using it for platforms.
 
stockers said:
. . . . . . . . . the product used behind showers is not MDF. It is a type of plasterboard but is more like concrete than plaster. It is very hard but other than being awkward to cut, would probably work well for model buildings. I am thinking of using it for platforms.
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Are you talking about "Aquapanel"? I've used it to line shower enclosures, and on a bathroom floor before tiling.


http://www.wickes.co.uk/Good-Idea-Leaflets/Aquapanel/pcat/54aquapanel
 
Steven - the shed is heavy enough not to budge so it'd be more for cosmetic reasons. I might put a beam against the rear wall - I've got a Peco one to butcher - but you'll not really be able to see it from the outside once the roof is on.
 
Wat a fab shed, love the red tool box. Can't wait to see it when it's finished. Been working on a shed myself since christmas and just about to put the felt on the roof. Iv put some led's on it for night time, just wondering how are you going to fix the doors on? Cant fined the right hinges any were!
 
Thanks for the info Bruce. :bigsmile: Did not know it cut with a Stanley knife.
and yes, DoctorM, a trade name is Aquapanel.
 
hi agian...hw it go with yr kit bashing mate?hope it turn out well.glad u get the beam for it.what are u going do with the roof on yr kitbashing shed?
 
steven large said:
hi so are u goin to get a buffer end to stop the loco going through at the back end?
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:rolf::rolf::rolf:

Rummaging through my Middleton Press books - there is a prototype for this sort of incident, but I can't find it yet
 
Excellent work. For the external walls what if you apply glue and just pour sand over it? Using the right grain size it can look like plaster render.

I always wanted to try this method to see how it looks. You can do it for me now :thumbup:
 
Great modelling work here again - but please be careful cutting MDF - use proper dust protection, it's nasty stuff.
 
As well as a dust mask I made use of some natural dust supression - otherwise known as drizzle!
The roof is now on and sealed - I'll get some photos and explain progress - if you're impatient there are some photos on my blog.
 
Rhinochugger said:
steven large said:
hi so are u goin to get a buffer end to stop the loco going through at the back end?
Click to expand...

:rolf::rolf::rolf:

Rummaging through my Middleton Press books - there is a prototype for this sort of incident, but I can't find it yet
Click to expand...
hi so tht why i have my own kitbashing shed lasy yr without buffer end..so i didnt realised it was no end at the back of inside shed end so i have to put buffet on the back of the engine shed!
 
jameshilton said:
As well as a dust mask I made use of some natural dust supression - otherwise known as drizzle!
The roof is now on and sealed - I'll get some photos and explain progress - if you're impatient there are some photos on my blog.
Click to expand...

Yes but now your using a power jigsaw in the drizzle.:rolf:
 
Ahem - cough - light drizzle! Joking aside chaps, I wonder if using a plant demister before cutting MDF isn't a bad tip as the damp air and surface of the wood totally killed any dust. It just stuck together and brushed off falling straight to the floor with the added weight of water.
 
Its a good idea actually James.
We dismantled an old asbestos garage in the rain for the sole reason of laying any dust.

(NOTE; council public tips/recycling centres might take asbestos waste - ours does - but talk to them first as it needs to be well wrapped)
 
I have to say, basically if you're working outside, it's nowhere near the problem it might be inside. As long as you're wearing a mask, no worries. Being aware is where it's at.

For C-----s sake don't stop building, you've got us all on tenterhooks.
 
I promised an update...

Well the roof is on, cut from 6mm MDF - sealed with diluted PVA, gaps then all filled with exterior grade acylic sealant. Then 10 year primer applied - as a second seal. Tonight a first coat of black paint, to get the feel for the building but also as another layer. The edges will need to be black anyway as the tar paper will only be applied to the top surface.

Does is need a ventilator? I'm tending to yes, but it'll be fiddly although I have a design in mind using 6 and 12mm MDF.

More on the blog: http://ejklr.blogspot.com Fir...36/dbf314d185ca4ce5ac64c27955e38e5e.jpg[/IMG]
 
Thanks!
Things have moved on and I'd not realised I hadn't posted up on here - as it's all on my blog (http://ejklr.blogspot.com ).
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The windows are fitted - these are cut from plastic sold for outdoor green house type things. It was scored with a sharp Stanley knife and metal rule, then snapped over a sharp edge. The bars are painted on using a bow pen and satin black paint. The windows are a tight fit in the window spaces and aren't budging.
ae6b821b9179456d896949754ea996d2.jpg

images

It's allowed a lot of creative angles already and I can't wait to progress this further. I'm currently thinking about how to do the shed doors and am currently thinking plasticard, as the edges will be a lot more exposed than the rest of the shed. I also still need to source some tar paper/felt stuff for the roof and work out the best way of doing a ventilator.

I have got drainpipes sorted though, I could even make them working I guess, but they will just be cosmetic for now!
 
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