Seeing the light:

[trammayo]

I'd noticed one or two members on this forum owning a lighthouse (or two) and, as I had some water, I thought I might join them. I spotted one on ebay and duly "won" it at the starting price. Its a Modelpower one standing nearly two foot tall with flashing light (I didn't know it flashed until I powered it up) and a street lamp mounted outside on the base.

The model arrived last Wed morning as we were due to depart for the Docs so I stuck the box inside the back porch for later scrutiny. After a nearly two hour visit, I couldn't wait to open the box (no jokes about Michael Miles please). It looks quite impressive but how long it will stand up to the weather out here is anybody's guess!

I looked around the railway for a suitable spot (reckoned it should be visible at the other side of the viaduct - out "at sea") and placed it on top of the mountain.

However this would be too exposed to the wind and I had no wish to walk around our neighbour's bog looking for missing parts!

I decided to mount it (temporaily at the moment) lower down at the side of the track but still visible from the otherside.

My next thoughts turned to providing a power supply. I've a few sealed twelve volt batteries but no means of switching these on automatically so I had further thoughts. If I used a plu-in timer and a plug-in transformer (ex Xmas lights?) I might solve my problem. Unfortunately all the transformers had a 24 volt output but I did find a 10 volt unit that powered a desk calculator once upon time.

I managed to fish a pair of wires from the workshop to ny control panel outside and thence through the layout to my chosen spot. I soldered and heat shrinked the wires from the transformer to the pair and used a connector block under the lighthouse.

My control box disguised as a freight depot - now extremely weathered after over five years!

Battery cupboard and wiring access below "depot"

 

[trammayo]

Here's some more pics

Temporaily mounted on concrete blocks - this area will be suitably contoured - at a much later date given the current downturn in the weather and when I erradicate the creeping buttercup!

At night - taken with flash of course because the lightouse was about as bright as a ...

 

[trammayo]

One other thing ocurred to me when first examining the model was that there were six (three either side) unglazed window apertures. I thought, wouldn't it be nice to have them lit up as well?

Looking inside the model, the plastic was not completely opaque and I wouldn't want glowing walls - would you?

Below; before spraying

So, I blocked off the openings with some scrap foamboard and then spayed the inside black with some car spray. The trouble with spraying the inside is that the spray will not reach the end of the "tube" with any force so I had to hold the lighthouse just below horizontal so that the resulting spray mist settled and rotated the lighthouse until everything was finally blacked out. Once dry, the blanking plugs were pushed out.

Finished spraying

 

[trammayo]

Next I decided to glaze the openings. As I had nothing in the scrap box, I used a method that I used on the model buildings on the trailer layout. This was to use "Word" and build or draw some frames and print them off.

As I assume that Georgian square panes would suit the model that is what made. As there was plenty of space on the "sheet" I made further windows for some Irish cottages (don't like waste!).

Normally, I woud print on paper and cut out the object and laminate it. The glass would be represented by shading but, in this instance, I had some inkjet transpariency sheets (for ovehead projector work) so I used this instead.

The indivual prints were cut out of the clear sheet and then put in the lamination pouch so as to give a sealed edge around each "frame".

When laminated, the windows were cut out and some curvature applied (by running over the edge of the bench). They were then glued into place using gutter sealant (black, in a cartridge). This sealant dries to a rubber-like state and is weather proof.

Close-up

This is as far as I have got at the moment. Although I tried illuminating the interior (12V car bulb) there is not enough current to sepply the pulsating lantern light, the street lamp and the interior. All lights seem to pulse in sympathy with the lantern - maybe something to do with the effect on the transformer?

Next step, apart from making the structure proof against the winds, will be to sort out a different power supply (probably battery with a 240 volt relay so it will work off the timer) and to landscape the area (in concrete!).

Mick

 

[stockers]

Brilliant - looks great. I suspect the car bulb is drawing too much current. Most car bulbs are pretty powerful - 5 to 25 amps at least. Try to find a tourch bulb or something like that. Or maybe a car interior light bulb - but even they can be pretty powerful.

 

[trammayo]

I wondered about the bulb Alan so I have dissconnected it but it still does it (the attached street lamp that is). Electrickery is marvellous but sadly I'm not its master! I'll have to wait until mi bro comes back off hols - then he'll tell I need this and that.

And I did notice a lighthouse board that did a realistic light simulation that you mention Ross - only trouble is my memory is as good as my electronic skills - it was only Saturday when I saw it and I didn't bookmark the site.

One other problem is the deep pockets and short arms! As for a day's surfing - it took over three hours to get on line this morning - but all I have to do is stand at the back door and I cam simulate getting wet (using real, wind-driven, water).

Many thanks though to both of you for your kind comments

 

[Madman]

Very nice work. I have been seeing these on Ebay lately. They look nice in the photos. I am also curious about the longevity outdoors.

 

[trammayo]

Very nice work. I have been seeing these on Ebay lately. They look nice in the photos. I am also curious about the longevity outdoors.

Thanks Dan. Yes I think the red rings will lighten for a start as they are only skin deep! Although a nice model and well presented in a smart box, there is little or no information as to UV stability or much else - apart from a small printed sheet on how to change the lantern bulb and nothing on how to change the bulb in the street lamp which seems to be glued together.

I've also worked out a simple way to stop it being blown over (without damaging or altering the itegrity of the structure). Watch this space (but don't hold your breath!

Mick