Stainz lighting

Glengrant

Registered
OK spending part of the winter cleaning up things and test running locos on my inside track. Now here's a knotty little problem. It reminds me of the sort of thing one got with the very ealy Mini, that's was the Morris Mini, the Austin was a different kettle of whatsit. You know, to empty the driver's ashtray first remove the engine, you know the sort of thing (Oh get on with it and stop rabitting on)
Testing one of my Stainzes, an old one, all my locos are old. Front pilot light doesn't work. Take bulb out - I can do that, test it, doesn't work. Change bulb, but before putting back into pilot test it. It works. Run engine, light does not come on. Reverse engine, rear red light works OK. So, broken or loose wire somewhere. Now do you see what I'm getting at when I mention the Mini? Where on earth does one start. I suppose removing the cab would help, but without a hacksaw I do not see how this is done. I suspect a huge amount of dissembling is required in order to even replace the wiring, let alone spot a break. Hardly worth doing, eh?
 
I have an old Stainz too, 1977 vintage, but it has been apart a few time and like a broom has had a new handle and several new heads.

I appreciate that your light is not working at the front. but is power actually getting to the bulb holer? Those old MES type holders can be a bit creaky and the bottom contact pad might be corroded to stop contact. Alternatively, the soldered joint may need re-doing, or the wire has been damaged when changing the bulb.

I would use a meter and some flying leads to see if there is any sign of voltage at the bulb end of the wire between the contact pad and the metal case of the holder. The contact pad may need some scraping to expose non-corroded metal.

If the answer is no, then you need to drop the chassis out of the loco to start tracing the wires back. Easier said than done I know. As I recall the cab is a big place for wiring to meet up, around the lighting socket (if yours has one), but I seem to recall that there is a two way diode block, somewhere near the firebox, maybe on the inside of it? It has been many years since I last did any Stainz Surgery, so I am a bit rusty.

If you can identify the diode block, you need to establish that it has both outputs working, by putting one lead on the common wire somewhere. (This is the one that does not got through the diodes) and the other firstly on the input and then in turn to each of the putputs of the diodes.
If one way is working but the other not, you need to replace both the diodes with oridinary ones bought from a supplier.
If the diode block is working on both outputs, but nothing is reaching the bulb, you either have a dry joint, where the solder has crumbled, losing connection, or more bizzarely, a wire fault.

The latter is the least likely scenario, unless you have taken the loco apart and trapped and broken a wire in the process.

Goodluck and let us know how you get on.

James
 
old stainz is easy to take apart, unscrew chimney, undo screw in chassis by rear step, remove motor block.
remove screw holding boiler, remove 2 screws holding cab at rear.
 
OK thanks chaps for the very promot response. However, in fifteen minutes I have to go to t'pub so all jobs are on hold, but I will certainly use your contributions and tackle this job. Getting the cab off is the first priority and as you say there is a lot of meeting of the wires in there. I think the wire connections at the front pilot end are sound enough, I wonder about the screw in bulb however, is it making contact? Results will be posted in due course, as I say, thanks for the help
 
Right, that's it, I'm giving up, for now anyway. I have spent all of this morning, a lovely sunny spring morning it is too, trying to get inside this perishing Stainz. I've removed the chimney, undid the two screws at the rear of the cab, unplugged all of the plastic gubbins between boiler and chassis, and although the boiler is loose, as is the cab, neither will come off, not separately, nor together. There is still somehting holding the thing together which I cannot find. The LGB service leaflet is pretty useless of course. I'll walk away from it for the time being. do something else. Incidentally, I am fairly sure on close inspection that the bulb is making contact with the holder, nice fresh shiny mark on the new bulb, bottom contact looks clean, not corroded. Wires into the holder look in good condition.
 
Cyril Have you tried PM to Stainzmeister. He does them in his sleep!
Also, there used to be a "sticky" to Walton's Model Rly Shop - just down the road from me where they do a stripdown of the Stainz. I will have alook for it.
Presumably we are talking the split gearbox version?
 
Right, I've spent most of the afternoon unscrewing every screw trhat I could find, I don't suppose I'll ever get the thing back together. However, thanks to you guys I have just about all the info that I need. I only wanted to get the front pilot light to work!
Definitely shelving things until tomorrow, then we'll have a fresh look at things. A night's sleep often helps. I once reassembled a motorcycle gearbox in this manner. OK, it was never the same again, but all the bits fitted into the housing. What, you ask? A 700cc RE
You'll be hearing from me, thanks for your input
 
still cant figure what you doing wrong, I can have one of these older stainz's apart in about 5 mins.
 
sparky230 said:
still cant figure what you doing wrong, I can have one of these older stainz's apart in about 5 mins.
I don't doubt you for one minute, Ian, but as you can see there isn't much more I can unscrew. The smokebox/boiler unit prises up from the front end, and the cab likewise at the rear, but somewhere in the middle of the body it refuses to come apart. It's almost coming apart but one hesitates to apply an extra measure of brute force.
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Cyril - with what you've removed so far, you SHOULD be able to slide - with a little gentle encouragement - the motor block (complete with the cylinders, wheels and all the motion) down out of the red chassis frame, which should then reveal one more hidden screw right in the middle - removing that will finally separate both the rear of the boiler and the cab from the chassis. Hope that works, I'm doing this from memory of the last time I dismantled a Stainz of that kind of vintage.

Jon.
 
Your Stainz is different from mine, but have you disconnected the part I've indicated on your photos Cyril....

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I think so, Giz - if you look at Cyril's 4th photo (the one of the underside) there are two black parts on the bench to the right, which are the bits that have already been removed to free up the section you circled.
I think it's the hidden central screw directly above the motor block that is the sticking point....

Jon.
 
Zerogee said:
I think so, Giz - if you look at Cyril's 4th photo (the one of the underside) there are two black parts on the bench to the right, which are the bits that have already been removed to free up the section you circled.
I think it's the hidden central screw directly above the motor block that is the sticking point....

Jon.
Good spot Jon, but then you've done this several times compared to the once I have?

And that was using your notes....
 
Ah but you havent pulled the front coupling forward and out to allow the motor to drop out:confused::confused::confused:
 
steve parberry said:
Ah but you havent pulled the front coupling forward and out to allow the motor to drop out:confused::confused::confused:

Steve you beat me too it
(went and took one apart just to make sure memory wasn't playing trick)
Steve's spot on i have just pulled the front loop out and the motor block fell out.
 
it's the newer ones i have trouble with, the older ones could strip with me eyes closed
 
steve parberry said:
Ah but you havent pulled the front coupling forward and out to allow the motor to drop out:confused::confused::confused:

Good catch Steve, hadn't spotted the front coupler!

Jon.
 
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