Switch tracks

PatsRailway1

PatsRailway1

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Not sure if thats proper name but want to build 2 lines. Is manual or electric switching best. All analogue trains
 

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Start with manual, even if you buy electric points.

You can always upgrade later....
 
PatsRailway1 said:
Not sure if thats proper name but want to build 2 lines. Is manual or electric switching best. All analogue trains
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As Gizzy says, especially as all the points are close together - I've always operated mine with the Mk1 finger, as I didn't want the faff of too many cables outdoors :rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
PatsRailway1 said:
what size transformer would I need I have an lgb 1 amp
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To operate a train separately on each track you will need two transformer/controller units. You will also need to fit insulating rail joiners at the two locations where the tracks connect at the crossovers, to keep the tracks electrically separated.

A 1 Amp LGB controller will basically run one single-motor loco reliablyIMG_2315.jpeg
 
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You will need to seriously think about how (and where) to isolate you tracks, and switch power to the section(s big hint!) between the two 'circles' of track..

Have a think, then ask, once your brain starts hurting. - You need to think about how you want to run. Direction(s) of running.. How you want to run from one circuit to the other.

Enjoy!
PhilP.
 
PatsRailway1 said:
my poor little brain is already at breaking point
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So, if we remove the connection between the two circles of track..
Left-line running, so the outer circle runs clockwise and the inner circle anticlockwise..

We are DC, so let's assume 'left-rail positive :
The outer rail of the outer loop will be' red' (positive), but the inner rail of the inner loop will be 'red'..
If we then add track between the two loops, we end up with a short circuit, BUT if you use separate power supplies for each loop, you can 'sort-of' connect them together, but not easily run a train from one loop to the other.

You need each loop to be able to be continuously powered, but independently of the other..
But,
You also need a section of each loop, plus the bit joining the two loops, to be able to be fed power from either loop.

Depending how you pick up power (assume just loco and tender) the perceived wisdom is to have 'the bit in the middle' long enough to hold the complete train.

So to cross from the outer to the inner loop.
Central section is connected to the outer loop, but disconnected from the inner loop.
Drive train onto central section, and stop.
Disconnect central section from the outer loop.
Connect power from inner loop to central section, and drive train onto inner loop.

PhilP.
 
PatsRailway1 said:
what size transformer would I need I have an lgb 1 amp
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It depends what locomotives you are running if it's dc 1 amp will run most 1 or 2 motor locomotives that I know of - My Allegra doesn't like the 1 amp power units but it has 4 motors.

With the points, it's helpful to understand that Hornby OO points are isolating - this means that when the points are closed, there is no power to the siding. LGB Points don't work that way - With LGB points the 'siding' is powered all the time. It's something to bear in mind when planning multi-train dc layouts.

The layout that you drew out would be fine for a digital system.

We went to digital pretty early on as we discovered that as our layout has a massive slope the back emf feature or load/ speed compensation was a big plus as it tries to keep my trains running at constant speed regardless of the weight of the train, the gradient of the track or going round curves.

Without this my LGB Crocodile on DC toiled up the hill on the up slope, then ended up in the bushes on the way back down.
 
PatsRailway1 said:
Ah thats great. thanks. I was looking at a gauge master controller that will control 2 tracks. its 2.5 amps so should be plenty
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Yep sounds good I used a MTS 2 system for years with a 2 amp transformer - most I had running at once was 9 and most of them had 2 motors.
 
The small LGB engines without smoke units (Stainz for one) will run with the 1/2 amp LGB controller (7VA). This is how LGB sold many starter sets. For a 2 motor engine with smoke I would go with at least 2 amps, and LGB of old did sell a 1.5 amp unit th would have worked.
 
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