The Welshpool Narrows re-born on the WGLR.
- Thread starter yb281
- Start date
trammayo
Interested in vintage commercial vehicle, trams, t
Very impressive and inspiring! The Garden Rail article was very interesting - gave me plenty of food for thoughts (trouble is I'm overstuffed with thought food and short of a few lifetimes to put ideas into practise). Looking forward to more on the "narrows".
Mick
Mick
3Valve said:Nice job Mel
Now then, will you also be doing a thread on casting doors and windows using Isopon?
Thanks guys, knew you'd like it Paul
.It's dead easy casting the doors and windows Gareth.
1 Get the Jigstones moulds.
2 Get the Isopon P38 from Halfords etc.
3 Mix the P38 with a smidge of hardner.
4 Smooth the mixed P38 into the moulds with the spatula supplied, nice and slowly to ensure you don't get any bubbles and making sure that you work it into the corners.
5 Leave alone for about 45 mins if I remember ............. time for a brew
.6 Carefully peel the rubber mould away from the castings.
7 Wash & scrub the moulds in warm, soapy water using an old tooth brush and dry thuroughly before using again.
8 Leave the castings on a flat surface for another 24 hours at least to make sure they're absolutely set before cleaning them up with a scalpel and/or file - you'll find that the window apertures etc. will be covered with "flash" which needs cleaning away (see my earlier photo).
I don't know what Steve's stock is (maybe Mike will know more?), but getting hold of the moulds might be the most difficult aspect - although his website is currently showing the door and window moulds that I borrowed as being in stock.
Marko 
.
Todays job was to build the front wall of the cottages. You can tell it's the front cos the doors are posher. The framework on this side is all in one piece ........ which was pretty mind-boggling to cut out 
.
You might also notice that I've included two internal walls. These are essential for structural strength (this building alone is over 2 feet long) and also will be needed when the roof goes on.
I've also added the extension (kitchen I'd imagine) to the end of the stone cottage which would have faced Union Street and Ballards garage. This appears to have been built from brick which will make for a nice change of texture and colour.
. Todays job was to build the front wall of the cottages. You can tell it's the front cos the doors are posher
. The framework on this side is all in one piece ........ which was pretty mind-boggling to cut out .
You might also notice that I've included two internal walls. These are essential for structural strength (this building alone is over 2 feet long) and also will be needed when the roof goes on.
I've also added the extension (kitchen I'd imagine) to the end of the stone cottage which would have faced Union Street and Ballards garage. This appears to have been built from brick which will make for a nice change of texture and colour.
beavercreek
Travel, Art, Theatre, Music, Photography, Trains
Hi Mel and admirers
Steve at Back2 bay6 still had the standard window and sash window molds in stock
Steve at Back2 bay6 still had the standard window and sash window molds in stock
A couple more jobs done this afternoon. First the wooden framing has been completed with the end wall of the cottages being fitted. If I remember my building construction lectures from training school, this is a queen post truss roof.
Secondly, being a pillock, I fitted the larger windows in the stone house the wrong way up (horizontal instead of vertical). But the beauty of using this Styrofoam is that it is dead easy to patch up such mistakes, any slight imperfections will be masked by the application of the tile grout stonework.
Secondly, being a pillock, I fitted the larger windows in the stone house the wrong way up (horizontal instead of vertical). But the beauty of using this Styrofoam is that it is dead easy to patch up such mistakes, any slight imperfections will be masked by the application of the tile grout stonework.
bobg
Registered
yb281 said:But the beauty of using this Styrofoam is that it is dead easy to patch up such mistakes, any slight imperfections will be masked by the application of the tile grout stonework.
Now that's the bit I want to see. Not the imperfections bit..........the applicationising of the grout stonework!
Keep going Mel. It's fasc in ating!
flyingsignalman
Narrow Gauge railways, Garden railways, Signalling
The models are looking good Mel, well up to your usual (high) standard
bobg said:
Thanks chaps. What have I missed with the Queens post truss then Alan?
OK Bob, here's the bit you were waiting for
. Shopping duties this morning gave the opportunity to nip into Homebase for some of their tile adhesive and grout to start the "rendering", Armada Cottages first. It's dolloped into the gaps into the framework (much more than you actually need), making sure that it's well tamped into the corners and edges. The surplus is then scraped away level with the framework, working from the middle outwards. I used coffee stirrers for doing this, but I think I'll have to invest in a proper little trowel for doing the stonework on the end house.
The finished filling is a bit rough in places. You could probably take your time and get it perfectly flat if required, but I don't want the finished building to look too "posh". After all, although I'm sure that these were little palaces inside, by the standards of today they'd be considered to be "slums". If you look at photos of the time, it is obvious that the cottages were ...... errrrrrr ........ a bit care worn.
It took about 2 hours to do one side. You'll notice that the framework has got a bit smudged. I reckon that I'll be able to wipe this clean after the grout has set, otherwise a bit of black paint will get it back the way it was. Having said that, it does add to the care worn look I'm after? One other thing I'm noticing as it dries is that, for some reason, the blue from the Styrofoam is leeching through the grout in a couple of places, especially where the internal walls join. Again, I'm not too bothered. A dab of paint should cover it when it's all dry.
After the grout had dried for about an hour, I was able to scribe some brickwork into a couple of the panels with a tooth-pick. This is as photos of the real building where either the rendering has peeled away, or panels have been repaired on the cheap.
