Transformers or power packs to be used for outdoor layout

Yep, Volt Amps to the rescue... not! Something that has to be repeated often in this hobby, VA is not the same as Watts at ALL combinations of volts and amps. The definition of VA is that there is a point where volts times amps equals the VA rating.

The VA rating is NOT, repeat NOT available at all combinations of volts and amps.

I really found this out trying to run my LGB cleaning loco with a power pack that just could not run 24 volts at basically any reasonable load at all... so a 60 VA unit that advertised 24 volts could not give me 24 volts with 2 amps... (which would technically be 48 VA).

Greg
 
I have a question about cleaning brass track. What is best to use to get minor rust and dirt from brass track? They sell a sponge that is abrasive on one side and smooth on the other. Any suggestions?
 
bridgemasters_cleaner.jpg


See this page for many products and an extensive discussion: https://elmassian.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=228&Itemid=262
 
Nicholas said:
Will Scotch Brite pads work to remove rust and minor pitting without damaging brass track?
Click to expand...

Brass, being non ferrous, does not 'rust'. I'm rather loathe to use abrasives to 'clean' track... that scoures the rail, and it fills up with dirt, requiring you to clean the rail, again,
 
Mild abrasives seem to be the norm for removing oxidation. Scotchbrite is well proven, which is what is on the unit I showed. The alternative is chemical, which is really impractical, since it's costly, would have to be applied by hand, and should also be neutralized after application.

Gavin, how do you clean oxidation from brass without abrading the surface?

Greg
 
minimans said:
I used a Blue Streak to power my railway for over 10 years and sent it back twice to be upgraded as they improved and up-rated the performance. It's a great power pack, has three separate channels and a wired remote. I still have it, if your interested give me a shout as I no longer have the railway and doubt that I will have a use for the power if I do rebuild something in my old age.....................View attachment 230093
Click to expand...
Does your Blue Streak work in all 3 tracks? Do you have operating instructions for it? What price are you asking?
 
Nicholas said:
Will Scotch Brite pads work to remove rust and minor pitting without damaging brass track?
Click to expand...
I have been to layouts that use all sorts of Track Cleaning solutions. As Stockers showed in post #23 there is nothing better than the good old LGB Track Cleaning Block. I have been in this game since 1983 so know a thing or two about dirty track. Other options work ok for keeping the clenliness up (see post #24 for one solution) but for a dirty tarnished rail, well the LGB Track Cleaning Block is the only solution that works with the least damage to your expensive Brass Rail. LGB Ref 50040. Some even swear by the LGB Track Cleaning Locomotive and whilst it has it's function at getting on for £600 now the 50040 is what you need.

I think I may have overstated the use of the 50040, what do you think guys?
 
It does exactly what it says
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Gavin, how do you clean oxidation from brass without abrading the surface?

Greg
Click to expand...

Oil, gasoline, any sort of liquid.... and plenty of elbow grease.
Then, and only then if that don't work, I reluctantly resort to some very very fine wet and dry sandpaper.
Works for me, may not suit all tastes. Each to his own.
 
Nicholas said:
Does your Blue Streak work in all 3 tracks? Do you have operating instructions for it? What price are you asking?
Click to expand...
Yes all three channels work, I do not have any instructions for it but it is quite a simple thing to use and is well marked for connections. I have two heads for the main consul. I think $200 would be a fair price for it. Give me a call at 707-217-6264 if your interested? I still have a ton of other stuff off the railway you might be interested in.............Paul
 
For me, when I was using track power, when running regularly I would just wipe the track over with a damp cloth wrapped around a block of wood. Used to use a very thin sponge cloth now a microfiber type cloth. As our railway is under trees there is always areas that get sticky nectar, or other such fallout from flora or fauna, so the damp cloth proved the most effective for dealing with that. And if using a track cleaning block, which turned out with the damp cloth not to be needed as often, I would wipe the rails with the damp cloth (& block of wood) first, then the track cleaning block, then wipe with the damp cloth again. You can guess just how black the cloth gets.
Now running predominately live steam with some battery power I still damp cloth wipe the track down, picking small weeds out and flicking leaves and twigs away as I go. I'm sure keeping the rail heads clean of the afore mentioned flora and fauna fall out prevents build up on wheels and improves general running. Good exercise anyway, I tell myself it makes up for those stretches the physio says I should do that I don't :giggle:
 
Must say, JR's method works. Whenever I turn up there 'demanding' track power, it always seems to work. ;)
 
Gavin Sowry said:
Oil, gasoline, any sort of liquid.... and plenty of elbow grease.
Then, and only then if that don't work, I reluctantly resort to some very very fine wet and dry sandpaper.
Works for me, may not suit all tastes. Each to his own.
Click to expand...


OK, so you ARE abrading the surface, just using a very fine abrasive and not leaving scratches. Got it... and the finer abrasive (the cloth with the liquid) results in more work.

Other than acids that directly attack the oxidation, the only way to remove oxidation is abrasion, mechanically "sanding" it off...

Just wanted to make a point that there's no free lunch, acids have their own disadvantages, and fine "sanding" takes a lot more effort than using coarser and faster methods.

By the way, I do agree, finer is better, there is some evidence that coarse sandpaper leaves grooves in the rail heads that build up crud that cannot be wiped off.

Greg
 
Greg Elmassian said:
OK, so you ARE abrading the surface, just using a very fine abrasive and not leaving scratches. Got it... and the finer abrasive (the cloth with the liquid) results in more work.

Other than acids that directly attack the oxidation, the only way to remove oxidation is abrasion, mechanically "sanding" it off...

Just wanted to make a point that there's no free lunch, acids have their own disadvantages, and fine "sanding" takes a lot more effort than using coarser and faster methods.

By the way, I do agree, finer is better, there is some evidence that coarse sandpaper leaves grooves in the rail heads that build up crud that cannot be wiped off.

Greg
Click to expand...

I have always understood that all polishing is just a series of scratches! I use the kitchen wipes to remove dirt and the fine emery sponge blocks to remove tarnish. I'd never use an LGB track cleaner - I always remember the rail grinders used on the former Leeds tramway system!
 
Exactly, up to a point. Finer and finer. But when you really are at polishing, like metal and stones, you actually wind up melting a very small area for a short time and the molten area is nice and smooth. Talk to a person who makes gemstones or facets... they use finer and finer abrasives, but the polishing step is usually cerium oxide or some powder that actually creates a lot of friction.

Anyway, in our case, we stop at the very fine abrasives, have not seen too many people using a buffing wheel on their track!

Of course, I was trying to find out how people removed oxidation...

Greg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top