What are some methods to trim or cut Lead Weights?

Rhinochugger said:
If you talked to a painter / decorator who had been apprenticed (back in the day) Mastic was a type of putty that you knocked up using white lead (and other things)
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Quite right - sometimes used in coachbuilding (of the wooden genre).
 
phils2um said:
From my past life experience having to shape lead shielding on occasion, a coarse saw with a fair amount of set and lube works best for simple shaping. It is essential to avoid heat buildup and clear the chips. Otherwise things get gummed up, tools get grabbed and it can quickly become dangerous especially if power tools are being used. I had the best success using a slow running bandsaw with a coarse metal cutting blade and cutting fluid. Reiterating Greg's comment - NEVER USE A GRINDER OR CUT-OFF WHEEL ON LEAD. In any case, I'm much less concerned about health effects from Pb ingestion than physical injury. Just clean up the chips and wash your hands. But, do keep the kids away until you're done - developing brains are particularly susceptible to Pb poisoning.

Phil S.
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Safer to make a mold for you custom weight and melt down the lead. I have done that for my R/C airplanes so the weights fit between the spars in the wing and in either the tail or nose. Much safer on the respiratory tract then cutting and run the risk of inhaling the lead dust. Make a sample mold out of rigid foam and use an old ,small, bread bake pan for the sand mold. Lay a flat board or sheet metal on the pan and carefully turn it over after removing the sample mold. A good latex sealer on the frigid foam along with a slight layer of oil spray I used, PAM, will release the mold quite easily. Don't forget to add a couple pour holes when making the sand mold. Once you've done a couple you will get quite good at it.
Almost forgot let the mold set for at least 24 hrs.' because if you pour the lead in while the sand is quite wet you'll have an explosion of sand and molded lead.
 
Melt your lead outside, don't put your head over the lead pot and wear a respirator. Liquid lead does have a vapor pressure and it increases exponentially with temperature. One equation I found is: log(p) = 4.911 - 9701/T where p is the vapor pressure in atmospheres (1 atm = 14.7 psi) and T is degrees Kelvin.
At 300ºC superheat there's around 1 ppm Pb in the air above the pot - nothing to be sneezed at much less what you want to breath!

Phil S.
 
Greg Elmassian said:
Yeah, cutting with a hack saw or other manual saw of the right type will just make chunks not dust.
o was
The thread was pretty much agreed not grinding, so no dust.

So, I have a hard time agreeing the recommendation of melting and pouring lead is "safer".
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Melting and pouring lead is safe if you follow precautions. My great uncle, who was plumber, back in the 50's and 60's, when cast iron pipe was chinked with oakum and then lead was poured into the joint followed with a blunt chisel to pack in the still soft lead. That's when I learned how to pour sand molds. Only a fool would put their head directly over the liquid lead pot, besides you could also receive a severe flash burn from that super heated air. He never used a respirator but kept his head to one side when heating, adding bars of lead and pouring the molten lead. NEVER drank any liquids, coffee, tea, or soda any where near the melting pot. Always wore gloves that were approved by the plumbers union. Uncle Jim retired and died at the age of 92 from hardening of the arties a family trait. He even wore gloves when filling his car with leaded gas because of the hazard. Learned a lot from him. Especially how to stay alive as he was a WWII veteran
 
tgood said:
Melting and pouring lead is safe if you follow precautions. My great uncle, who was plumber, back in the 50's and 60's, when cast iron pipe was chinked with oakum and then lead was poured into the joint followed with a blunt chisel to pack in the still soft lead. That's when I learned how to pour sand molds. Only a fool would put their head directly over the liquid lead pot, besides you could also receive a severe flash burn from that super heated air. He never used a respirator but kept his head to one side when heating, adding bars of lead and pouring the molten lead. NEVER drank any liquids, coffee, tea, or soda any where near the melting pot. Always wore gloves that were approved by the plumbers union. Uncle Jim retired and died at the age of 92 from hardening of the arties a family trait. He even wore gloves when filling his car with leaded gas because of the hazard. Learned a lot from him. Especially how to stay alive as he was a WWII veteran
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Poured lead joints - those were the days using a "Squirrel tail" on horizontal pipes. Whilst I've never poured one myself, I have used lead wool to caulk and reseal those joints!
 
R. Wolfe said:
Hello, I need to remove a portion of the lead weight inside my loco for decoder and electronic fitment. What are some of the best ways to do this? I know you can melt it with a hot enough torch but that is not an option for me. I don't have access to a mill or lathe either. I have tried a hack saw, a coarse wood saw and a hammer & chisel. So far, the best thing I found was a drill bit in my drill press. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Richard.
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A hack saw works but slow. I also used a electric handheld grinder with a 4 inch metal cutter on it, a little dangerous, even putting the weight into a large vise. I just recently purchased a Proxxon MBS/E Band Saw (Hobbyist Size) on Amazon for about $300.....excellent German quality. I'll be using it shortly to cut the front of the large lead weight for installing a Massoth Pulsed Smoke Generator into an LGB 2018D Mogul locomotive that I'm also installing an ESU sound decoder. So I'm looking forward to using this new tool for the task. Be sure to always wear eye goggles and a appropriate face mask to block the out the lead fragments and fumes and do it outside.......lead is very dangerous to our health!
 
Greg Elmassian said:
When I wire-brushed the above weight, I wore a mask and worked outside with a fan at my shoulder blowing the dust away, it was DEFINITELY a health hazard.

Greg
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Good move. The lead oxide is far more likely to get inside you and say there than the silver metal ever will.
 
I've used a Stanley knife blade and a wood working chisel to cut lead. This can distort the weight but it can be hammered back into shape. Saves all that lead dust getting into the environment. I have a big jar full of bits of lead from various sources - flashing etc.

Geoff
 
LGeoB said:
I've used a Stanley knife blade and a wood working chisel to cut lead. This can distort the weight but it can be hammered back into shape. Saves all that lead dust getting into the environment. I have a big jar full of bits of lead from various sources - flashing etc.
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This is the best way to go, in my opinion.

Now this is with i think i know about lead:
If you get intoxicated: the more intoxicated your body is, the more trouble your body will have to get rid of it, it builds up.
How to get lead poison within a year: melt 10.000 kilo (no typo!)lead into ingots above 450C with totally no protection or adequate ventilation.
Half time for lead in your body 10-15 years, health hazards: slowing down production of white blood cells and permanent nerve damage.
Worst case scenario: liver and kidneys can recover, it is not a promise!
If your body absorbs more lead then it can get rid of, it will be stored in your body inside the bone and will affect the production of white blood cells.
How to prevent: where latex gloves, dust (fff)incl vapor respirator, adequate ventilation(or outside in the wind) and keep your melt temps low!
After your done: vacuum your work place, dont eat drink or smoke while working with lead.
When you want to smoke, or done with casting: go outside, blow yourself of with compressed air then take of your gloves and respirator.
But this is for "production" casting.....

To get lead vapors, you must run your melting pot at very high temps.
The vapors will start at melting point(very low in particles, not a real safety hazard, if done NOT frequently), give lead time to melt, run your pot not so high.
Give lead the time to absorb the heat.
Melting lead is getting very dangerous above the 600c (if you must add antimony for example).
When working occasionally with lead and you keep dust, oxide out and work with low melting temp, you will be save.
The amounts of lead particles are in that small amount your body will get easy rid of it.

For occasional melting or working on lead: get a pot or small iron can, put it on a small camping fire, sit between the wind and the fire.
Or inside: open all windows and put your home ventilation to the max!
To make a small casting mold: get whatever you have (incl wood, one time mold) 2 pieces, clamp them in your vice and drill a hole.
Work with a hammer to flatten it out and cut to size with a stanley knife.
Lead is very ductile.
You will be oke.
Dont eat drink or smoke while handling lead, wash your hands with plain luke warm water and dishwash soap, this works best.

If you use wheel weights or shooting range scrap lead, please dont work with it inside, you can and will find metals in it, that are 100 times more dangerous then lead vapors.
Also dont use a blow torch, it is too hot.
IF you feel nauseous, feverish, dizy, trembling: ABORT immediately and go outside or stand in the wind......
Sit down and drink some milk to get your body relaxed.(milk however is not a cure).
I started casting with my old man when i was 8, casted thru my life A LOT of lead, this write up is a 40 years of experience and some studying.

Last warning, if your lead has white "fungus" aka oxide, wear gloves and wash hands.
Tips: get some roofing lead from a scrapyard dealer cut it with a knife and save yourself from trouble.
or cut up some iron strips.
For occasional exposure: you will be fine.

My two cent on the subject of what i think i know about lead.
 
justme igor said:
This is the best way to go, in my opinion.

Now this is with i think i know about lead:
If you get intoxicated: the more intoxicated your body is, the more trouble your body will have to get rid of it, it builds up.
How to get lead poison within a year: melt 10.000 kilo (no typo!)lead into ingots above 450C with totally no protection or adequate ventilation.
Half time for lead in your body 10-15 years, health hazards: slowing down production of white blood cells and permanent nerve damage.
Worst case scenario: liver and kidneys can recover, it is not a promise!
If your body absorbs more lead then it can get rid of, it will be stored in your body inside the bone and will affect the production of white blood cells.
How to prevent: where latex gloves, dust (fff)incl vapor respirator, adequate ventilation(or outside in the wind) and keep your melt temps low!
After your done: vacuum your work place, dont eat drink or smoke while working with lead.
When you want to smoke, or done with casting: go outside, blow yourself of with compressed air then take of your gloves and respirator.
But this is for "production" casting.....

To get lead vapors, you must run your melting pot at very high temps.
The vapors will start at melting point(very low in particles, not a real safety hazard, if done NOT frequently), give lead time to melt, run your pot not so high.
Give lead the time to absorb the heat.
Melting lead is getting very dangerous above the 600c (if you must add antimony for example).
When working occasionally with lead and you keep dust, oxide out and work with low melting temp, you will be save.
The amounts of lead particles are in that small amount your body will get easy rid of it.

For occasional melting or working on lead: get a pot or small iron can, put it on a small camping fire, sit between the wind and the fire.
Or inside: open all windows and put your home ventilation to the max!
To make a small casting mold: get whatever you have (incl wood, one time mold) 2 pieces, clamp them in your vice and drill a hole.
Work with a hammer to flatten it out and cut to size with a stanley knife.
Lead is very ductile.
You will be oke.
Dont eat drink or smoke while handling lead, wash your hands with plain luke warm water and dishwash soap, this works best.

If you use wheel weights or shooting range scrap lead, please dont work with it inside, you can and will find metals in it, that are 100 times more dangerous then lead vapors.
Also dont use a blow torch, it is too hot.
IF you feel nauseous, feverish, dizy, trembling: ABORT immediately and go outside or stand in the wind......
Sit down and drink some milk to get your body relaxed.(milk however is not a cure).
I started casting with my old man when i was 8, casted thru my life A LOT of lead, this write up is a 40 years of experience and some studying.

Last warning, if your lead has white "fungus" aka oxide, wear gloves and wash hands.
Tips: get some roofing lead from a scrapyard dealer cut it with a knife and save yourself from trouble.
or cut up some iron strips.
For occasional exposure: you will be fine.

My two cent on the subject of what i think i know about lead.
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It does appear to be a weighty problem

David
 
David1226 said:
It does appear to be a weighty problem
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Yes, most fears holds no ground, aldo it is lead, it is relatively harmless, unless you cast a lot or do really stupid and go for a "Darwin award" :rofl:
 
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