Wiring up an LGB semaphore signal

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playmofire

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I've just bought an LGB50960 semaphore signal and have some questions about ways of wiring it up.

The manual refers to using an 18v supply, presumably DC, from the LGB transformer. I use the "heavy duty" Playmobil transformer/controller with a 14v output for accessories, and wonder if this would be adequate.

Secondly, the LGB instructions refer to using one of their momentary switch control boxes, but as I only intend to have one electrically operated item, would it be possible to use a single momentary switch or switches, one for moving the signal to the clear position and one for returning it to stop?

Any thoughts and advice would be much appreciated.
 
14V should be fine..
Get a DPDT centre off biased switch from Maplin. - I will sort the catalogue number later..
Cross-wire the outer contacts, and feed the 14V into that.. Feed the signal from the centre contacts..
 
The LGB signals are like the points. A positive pulse to go one way & a negative to go the other way. Use 18v with a couple of diodes to obtain the polarities. You may find the 14v isn't enough to shift the signal once it goes through the diode.
 
Thank you both for your reply.

If Philp will let me have the part number for the switch he mentioned, then I can do a few trials with the Playmobil set up and see how things go.
 
As Dutchelm says above, the signals are mechanical solenoids like the point motors.

I would use one of these with an AC supply....

http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=GM511&style=main&strType=&Mcode=Gaugemaster+GM511
 
playmofire said:
Thank you both for your reply.

If Philp will let me have the part number for the switch he mentioned, then I can do a few trials with the Playmobil set up and see how things go.
Click to expand...
On daughters laptop, but think it is this one..

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/sub-miniature-toggle-switch-h-momentary-on-off-on-dpdt-fh07h

I put a couple of PP3 batteries in series with one of these to a point about three and a half years ago for someone.. The batteries are still going strong!
 
PhilP said:
On daughters laptop, but think it is this one..

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/sub-miniature-toggle-switch-h-momentary-on-off-on-dpdt-fh07h

I put a couple of PP3 batteries in series with one of these to a point about three and a half years ago for someone.. The batteries are still going strong!
Click to expand...

Thanks for that, and for answering my next question - can two PP3 batteries be used instead of the mains transformer.

All I have to do now is find the time to understand the LGB instructions.
 
playmofire said:
All I have to do now is find the time to understand the LGB instructions.
Click to expand...
If you have ever wired up a point motor and got it working, then the LGB Semaphore and Colour Light Signals are done exactly the same way....
 
Gizzy said:
If you have ever wired up a point motor and got it working, then the LGB Semaphore and Colour Light Signals are done exactly the same way....
Click to expand...
No, that was Philp, but working with batteries means less risk of loud bangs and bright flashes, so we'll see what happens.
 
Well, some rather basic experimenting this afternoon with battery power and trying the larger Playmobil controller with 14v output. I just tried holding one wire against one of the motor terminals and quickly touched the other terminal with the other wire. I then reversed the procedure.

With the two PP3 batteries wired in series, the signal moved with a satisfying "clunk", but with the Playmobil 14v system, dutchelm was right, the signal arm "stuttered", although it would work after a fashion when raising the signal arm to the stop position. So it will be battery power I'll use, hiding them in a lineside electrical box or small building.

Many thanks for the help everyone. I hope to get the signal all set up in the next few weeks as time permits.
 
Was that using the Playmobil's track output (14V DC), or the accessory output (14V AC) with a diode? If it was the latter then you were only putting half-wave through the signal motor which certainly wouldn't be very satisfactory.

If you use a proper full-wave bridge rectifier (4 diode diamond circuit) and a change-over switch with the 14V AC accessory output then it'll work much better, you'll be feeding the motor with a decent 12V+ (possibly a little more as the aux output of the controller is probably more than 14V). My LGB motors snap "purposefully" from about 12V upward: I've just bench-tested one to confirm.

[edit]
You could make the bridge rectifier yourself from 4 diodes of suitable power capacity, or you can get a bridge rectifier component. For example Maplin do a 6A rectifier for £1.34

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/kbpc601-6a-bridge-rectifier-ar80b

There are loads of similar items on ebay, if you don't have a Maplin nearby

[/edit]
 
I was just using wiring straight from the 14v accessory output. As for the solution, I'm afraid I was lost from "full-wave" onwards.
 
playmofire said:
I was just using wiring straight from the 14v accessory output. As for the solution, I'm afraid I was lost from "full-wave" onwards.
Click to expand...

With a diode? Without any diode at all you would have been feeding the motor with AC*, that's definitely not going to work. It'll buzz and stutter if it moves at all. With 1 diode you'd be feeding "half-wave", so the motor would only "see" half of the AC cycle - approximating 7V DC (ish). Still not high enough for a decent "thump". You need the "full" wave of the AC, rectified into DC, to get 14V DC (less a couple of volts (ish) for the diodes for the rectifier).

* I have 2 Playmobil powerpacks, both have AC outputs for accessories.
 
Full Wave.jpg


Using 14 volts AC as the example,  14 V AC X 1.414 = 19.8 volts peak.

To get the average multiply the peak (19.8 volts) by 0.637 which  equals 12.6126 volts as the DC output voltage.
 
Ah, I thought the accessory output was AC!


I think I will stick to the battery method as I can make it work and ir seems nice and simple.
 
playmofire said:
Ah, I thought the accessory output was AC!
Click to expand...
It is. (Presume you mean you thought it was DC?)

I think I will stick to the battery method as I can make it work and ir seems nice and simple.
Click to expand...
You might as well, although I'm sure one of us on here could make you up a little box with a rectifier and a momentary DPDT switch if electrics really isn't your "thing". I'd be happy to for the cost of the bits.
 
I have a bridge rectifier here which I can post to anyone  - free.

rectifier.JPG

also a DPDT switch but its not momentary contact but could be used with a bell push type button.

 
stockers said:
I have a bridge rectifier here which I can post to anyone - free.
Click to expand...

That'll probably do the job fine. W005M is rated for 1.5 amps 50 volts, should be enough for the short burst of a single signal/point motor.
 
And I've got a small box and a DPDT momentary switch......................
 
ntpntpntp said:
It is. (Presume you mean you thought it was DC?)
You might as well, although I'm sure one of us on here could make you up a little box with a rectifier and a momentary DPDT switch if electrics really isn't your "thing". I'd be happy to for the cost of the bits.
Click to expand...

Yes, I did mean DC.

Yes, I'd be happy to take up your kind offer; it's much appreciated.
 
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