Wonky - Wangeroo

[Rob s]

Following on from another thread re-problems with the Kof Wangeroo together with Whatleps timely up-date of his cracking product review,
But mainly as the weather here is totally pants - I finally got round to having a proper look at my own Wonkey Wangeroo.

Last time out - it showed signs of hesitating when run at shunting pace.
I have since run it on rollers and there is a definate slight slowing, once per revolution of the wheels and a dulling of the head lights on each turn.

As sugested on Peter review I have striped the bottom off, cleaned all the contacts, pickups, wheels and just for good measure cleaned and re greased the gears.
Put it back together and ran again on the rollers, a tiny bit better but not much.

So I bit the bullet and striped it down again, motor block out - body off, found the same as Whatlep the main cable had been pinched on asembly but fortunatley on mine, not damaged

What I did notice straight away is the centre set of wheels bind on the outer skirt as can be seen from the distinct rubbing mark, this is probably why it apeared not to like R1 points and really made a meal of pushing through them, but not why it should hesitate on the rollers.

On checking the rest over - the cause of the problem turned out to be quite obvious - the front and rear axles on one side are rubing on the undercarriage.

Red plastic from the axles showing on the Axle journels (if thats the right name)

Front and Rear outer (axle) on one side showing signs of wear.

Front and Rear outer (axle) on other side still showing clean and shiny plastic

Have not put it back together yet - as I am at a loss as how to over come this problem ??

Any ideas gratefully received ??

 

[whatlep]

Have not put it back together yet - as I am at a loss as how to over come this problem ??

Any ideas gratefully received ??

Rob

Most odd! None of my Wangerooge's cranks exhibit that problem. If you have a micrometer, I'd be inclined to check that the crank axle diameters are consistent and the same for the chassis holes.

To check that what you've found is indeed the cause, I'd try removing the affected crank(s) and check if the loco then runs smoothly. Obviously if yes, you've cracked the cause.

As a palliative, you could try a bit of grease in the chassis hole, but if the rubbing is that severe, you may have to gingerly open up the aperture with a very fine emery paper.
Good luck!

 

[garrymartin]

Ask for your money back? Is it still under warrenty ?

 

[playmofire]

Ask for your money back? Is it still under warrenty ?

Maybe not as it has been opened up.

 

[stockers]

I hope you get it sorted - but this is a Wonky. !K

 

[Zerogee]

I'm assuming that the "journals" in the black frame are not in any way load-bearing, ie: the cranks are not SUPPOSED to bear on them at all? If so, then as they will be hidden behind the crank counterweights anyway, I would be inclined to open them up considerably with a round file, removing enough plastic that there is no further risk of contact between the frame and the crank. I don't have one of the Wangerooge versions, but I do have the black sound-equipped version of the same loco (made towards the end of the pre-bankruptcy "old" LGB days), I'll have to take a look at that and see if there is a similar problem.

Jon.

 

[Phil]

Ask for your money back? Is it still under warrenty ?

Maybe not as it has been opened up.

there is now way people can tell you've opened something up unless it's been modified, just put it back together correctly and get a replacement..

 

[Rob s]

Ask for your money back? Is it still under warrenty ?

Maybe not as it has been opened up.

there is now way people can tell you've opened something up unless it's been modified, just put it back together correctly and get a replacement..

That might not be quite the case as the owner of the establishment i purchased the loco from just happens to be a fellow forumite and i think the pictures tell a diferent story

 

[Rob s]

Have not put it back together yet - as I am at a loss as how to over come this problem ??

Any ideas gratefully received ??

Rob

Most odd! None of my Wangerooge's cranks exhibit that problem. If you have a micrometer, I'd be inclined to check that the crank axle diameters are consistent and the same for the chassis holes.

To check that what you've found is indeed the cause, I'd try removing the affected crank(s) and check if the loco then runs smoothly. Obviously if yes, you've cracked the cause.

As a palliative, you could try a bit of grease in the chassis hole, but if the rubbing is that severe, you may have to gingerly open up the aperture with a very fine emery paper.
Good luck!

Apologies for the slow response to you guys and thanks for the ideas, a little prob with a frozen pipe caused a slight distraction.

Peter thanks - have miked the cranks (various spots on each) and considering they are plastic they are pretty close to each other in fact the smallest is one of the ones shown as having rubbed on the journal.

Thought about pulling the cranks and was a little cornered about getting the quartering back correctly, but reasoned it def would be a good idea to check if the rubbing is actually the prob.

Had a real good think about it and in the end just pluged the top back on to the motor block and held it away from the base then ran the block on the rollers.

Unfortunately it turns out the fault is not actually solved, it does run smoother, but the lights still pulse ie dim down on each turn, now totally stumped as to where to go next ???

 

[whatlep]

Unfortunately it turns out the problem is not actually solved, it does run smoother in the rotation, but the lights still pulse ie dim down on each turn, now totally stumped as to where to go next ???

You're welcome to send the chassis unit to me and I'll try it in my loco. Should show up if it's a problem in the chassis or something in the loco's electrics.

PM me if you'd like to go down that route.

 

[Neil Robinson]

Had a real good think about it and in the end just pluged the top back on to the motor block and held it away from the base then ran the block on the rollers.
Unfortunately it turns out the fault is not actually solved, it does run smoother, but the lights still pulse ie dim down on each turn, now totally stumped as to where to go next ???

I suggest repeating that test after removing the both connecting rods.

 

[Rob s]

Unfortunately it turns out the problem is not actually solved, it does run smoother in the rotation, but the lights still pulse ie dim down on each turn, now totally stumped as to where to go next ???

You're welcome to send the chassis unit to me and I'll try it in my loco. Should show up if it's a problem in the chassis or something in the loco's electrics.

PM me if you'd like to go down that route.

Peter just seen your pm Thanks very much - reply sent

 

[Rob s]

Had a real good think about it and in the end just pluged the top back on to the motor block and held it away from the base then ran the block on the rollers.
Unfortunately it turns out the fault is not actually solved, it does run smoother, but the lights still pulse ie dim down on each turn, now totally stumped as to where to go next ???

I suggest repeating that test after removing the both connecting rods.

Neil I have a feeling you are probably right, just one thing left to check
going to try a diff power source - when i get the chance to dig the door clear of snow.