Working on the steam tram....

tramcar trev

all manner of mechanical apparatus...
Weatherproofing the roof.

I wanted the roof to look like the original which is wood with canvas stretched over it. As it turned out its easier to do than I thought it was going to be. I found a scrap of Muslin left over from some long gone project. Seems to be capable of accepting a compound curve and it’s about right for “G” scale Canvas….

To do the job I cut the “canvas” oversize about 12’’mm all around. Set it aside while I filled a small pump pack with Acetone, and then lay the canvas on the plastic surface. Next spray the acetone over it and then gently smooth the canvas down with fingertips. I found the acetone dried too quickly so I mixed up some 50 -50 with GP thinners and this gives a better working time. The solvent melts the plastic and grabs the canvas. I let that dry for a few minutes then nicked the corners with a sharp scalpel so I could do “hospital folds at the corners on the edge the repeated the spraying and smoothing down. The dampened plastic gets very tacky and so holds the muslin in place. When dry, using a new scalpel blade, trim off the excess. Any bits that stick to places where you don’t want it can be either pulled off or sanded off using 240 grit paper. For precise placement of the solvent you apply it with a small brush and pretend your working with fibreglass and resin, worked well where I had to stretch the muslin at the ends....
If it goes awry I found that if I resprayed the Muslin it could be lifted and reworked till I was happy. I predrilled the holes in the roof for the various parts that pass through but that may not have been necessary but I didn’t want to risk furry holes. Paint to the colour required, in this case a mid grey and it’s done…. Maybe later on I’ll get some matte black in an airbrush and “dirty up the roof” just for a little realism…
Gives quite a realistic effect, I had no idea this was going to work….
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Then, or should I say concurrently, I was working on the boiler back head and smoke box door. The former is a slice of the plastic former for the boiler with a 3mm radius on the edge and the details are made from styrene sheet. Notice the absence of water gauges? They do not appear on my drawing but they are on the real thing. I decided that they would look nice so contacted my “old supplier” of glass tube seeking some 1.5mm glass tube, I thought it would look quite real with some brown liquid in the bottom half. Anyway things have changed; my regular supplier of glass tube no longer is there and said “which department do you work for? Have you got a job code? “What”, says I, “for 30mm of glass tube” Spose not says this new guy and he wanders off and comes back to tell me the smallest tube they have is 5mm…. BUGGA
Ok well I may leave off the water gauges for the moment till I can source something that will suit.
The later, the smoke box door I machined up from some brass rod and drilled holes to fit the imitation bolts through, the astute will have noticed that there are 2 holes with no bolts, that’s so that I can bolt on the 2 diagonal braces when all is assembled and painted.
While all this was going on I was tinkering with the smoke generator. Couldn’t get a die cast box to fit so I had to get a longer one and take a 20mm slice out of the middle of it then rejoin the box with industrial strength super glue. It all came together in the end as can be seen makes more than enough smoke; the 2 tubes that poke out the bottom will go to the cylinders to provide steam leaks…
Then a dry run just to be absolutely certain that all the “stuff” is going to fit inside the boiler – and it does with millimeters to spare, about 2 mm that is.

Next task is to work on the pistons and skirts, after that the radio control Transmitter should be here with the associated receivers and ESC’s.
 
Hi,
The water (level) gauges you mention are the present design; you could always go back in time and have 3 try cocks instead?

Three bits of plastic tube, 3 largish flathead nails to form the open/close wheelsand fit them in a 60 degree line on the back of the firebox.

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Here is a mylargescale photo of the back of the model of C P Huntingdon's backhead - you have both sorts as a bonus! make the modern style from some clerar packaging lightly scored and bent into a square tube topped and tailed with little square of styrene etc.

Yours Peter.
 
Now that's a clever idea.... Fodt up a square tube from some of the clear packaging..... yes I'll give it a go....
 
themole said:
Perspex rod or box section also does the job, Trev. Nice work. Alyn :thumbup:
just rediscovered some 3/8" perspex rod, I may be able to machine it into square section...
 
hi
thanks for sharing that roof idea considering it was a trial a great piece of work ,that is going to look very realistic, it gives me an idea to make a roof that looks worn out on a grounded wagon .
Graham Shrewsbury
 
You can easily make it worn, torn, patched and weathered too....
 
So to continue it’s all looking good, the major parts of the body have been made and assembled and some painting has been done. I was trying to achieve a faux timber finish around the windows and frames. I got spiffing results on larger trial work pieces but the tedious bits around the windows were beyond me. I ended up mixing some paint that is a close representation of “Red Pine” the timber favoured by Baldwin for locomotive cabs. It grew in abundance around their works which I guess is why it was used…. It looks like any other pine but it is a darker colour. You will just have to squint and try and imagine a varnished timber surface there.

Making the skirt for the funnel was a bit of a challenge and I solved the issue of how to “feather” it around the top of the smoke box by resorting to world’s worst trade practice. I used a 40mm dia slitting saw vertically taking small cuts and it did a superb job, fits perfectly just don’t tell anyone, I’d be up for slitting saw abuse charges…..

The other brass components were a simple turning job. The Cylinders are hollow and have vents where the drain cocks are fitted to let some steam come out of them.

I ended up making a new dash panel for the “B” end as it had blemishes that when I filled with filler caused a meltdown so I laminated up a new one…..

Before painting the entire body was sprayed with white primer surfacer and given a delicate sand, it helps the paint stick…

I made up ornate skirts to hide the wheels and motion lest I scare the Magpies or plastic horses, mine are going to be very “dressy” with gold embellishments that will bind together nicely with the other gold linework. In the original form these were like most forms of transport of the era all “Brass & Varnish” indeed everything had heaps of brass on it to be polished every morning, essential to employ engine cleaners and child labour.

I’ve received word that the Radio control gear has been shipped and to allow 45 days for it to get here. It must be walking by itself, its coming from Moruya about 180kms away…. I still have plenty to do, but its very therapeutic and takes my mind of other smaller things.....

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Trev

Could you not have spun the skirt for the funnel to feather it?

http://youtu.be/CsGVPUGMPXM < Link To video=http://youtu.be/CsGVPUGMPXM

Reason I thought about this is that I served my apprenticeship as a Metal Spinner in the Aerospace industry......
Pic taken a LONG time ago

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Fascinating and a great demonstration of skill and ingenuity. And it looks fabulous too. Downside is it makes me feel so inadequate!! :wits:
 
Excellent stuff Trev. I really admire your attention to detail.

Rik
 
Ian_S said:
Forgot to type - Looking REALLY GOOD - the tram that is :D
Yes, I did spin a nice full size copper finale for a steamboat funnel years ago, but age dulls some memories and I chose this method as it appeared to be the easiest (at the time). Metal spinning is a lost trade, these days unless the job can be done by a computer no one wants to know....
And thanks chaps for your comments, it inspires me.
 
ge_rik said:
Excellent stuff Trev. I really admire your attention to detail.

Rik
Yes but if you look closely you will see that the detail I do apply is skilfully designed to draw the eyes away from the glaring faults, for example you don't see brass hinges so the skirts can be raised, You don't see the plethora of internal pipework.... I rely on the fact that 99% of people who will see this in the flesh, so to speak, will have never seen a real one so will have nothing to compare it with.................................
One detail I will add when I can find a lump of coal is to fill the bunker with real coal chips.... Interesting that, I can lay my hands on some Sydney Tramway ballast that has not been used for over 50 years but a lump of coal?? I suspect that person or persons unknown has scoured every railway line within Cooee of Canberra and cleaned it up, even the Yass Tramway has been so cleansed of any evidence...
 
tramcar trev said:
ge_rik said:
Excellent stuff Trev. I really admire your attention to detail.
Yes but if you look closely you will see that the detail I do apply is skilfully designed to draw the eyes away from the glaring faults, for example you don't see brass hinges so the skirts can be raised, You don't see the plethora of internal pipework.... I rely on the fact that 99% of people who will see this in the flesh, so to speak, will have never seen a real one so will have nothing to compare it with.................................
I think that's an essential part of your art (or maybe you'd say artifice?). I like the way you've spent time detailing the roof features for example - assuming the model is more likely to be viewed from above this is what most people will notice first.

Rik
 
blooody brillant:thumbup::love::love::love:
 
Coal will degrade / breakdown more quickly as it is more friable than the harder, denser ballast..
It is also of more use / value, so may well have been collected for use, rather than momento?

There would be a heck of a lot more ballast kicking about, than coal, as well!
 
More painting and working on the lighting….

Gave the body another coat today and while waiting for it to dry I made up 2 destination boxes (and will make up 2 more bottom mount type for the trailer while I’m at it). I may have explained the process before but if so then refresh your memory because you will have forgotten how it’s done (don’t worry I had to refer to earlier blog postings for reassurance). It’s a 2 pour process, first the led is inserted into the mould then about 1mm of clear resin is poured to create the glass front of the destination box ensuring that there is a nice meniscus around the led. I now use a different type of led that has an internal reflector and they shine in a wider pattern than the normal ones, the colour is also more “old world” too. With the help of a hairdryer to heat the clear resin it gels quickly at which point the remaining resin has black dye added and is poured to fill up the mould. It is important to use the same batch of mixed resin as it has the same hardener ratio, change that ratio by so much as a fraction of a teensy weensy bit and the 2 lots have different rates of contraction on curing and the join becomes obvious. I used to make these with all clear resin and then had to take extreme measures to keep the light in and only show out the glass front, backing the clear up with the black makes this a lot easier. These are the “Sydney Pattern” after the wooden sign era. Even steam trams on isolated routes still had Destination Boxes, just to keep passengers assured that they were going home or to work I suspect… I get asked how do I print white letters? I don’t print white letters what I do is not print the letters… I proceed thus; using a cheap cad program I draw up a box that is the outer edge of the sign (carefully measured with verynear calipers) then choosing the appropriate font enter the text in vector format which gives just an outline of said lettering, its then a simple matter of filling around the lettering and inside the box with solid colour. Print it out onto heavy gloss photo paper, let it dry then a spray with clear gloss spray for protection and they are done, apart that is, from surgically excising them from the sheet…. Amazing how computers have changed model making, before computers all the signs on my models were hand painted. To shaky for 1mm high lettering these days…. I like these, I wonder if I should sell them and the other front style ones in the Tramway gift shop?

Internally I discovered that I could utilise the original lamp shades with a bit of trimming so I fitted those and wired the lot up with a small 2 pin plug so that the body can be separated for battery charging etc…. So that’s done now and the effect is most pleasing, the headlights are very bright though I may have to insert a dropping resistor just to take the edge of the light…

So, you may ask, why “Destination: Yarloop” well it’s the only place I have ever seen a 3’6” gauge Baldwin (style - I have been told to insert the word “style” after every use of Baldwin as its not actually built by Baldwin – some people can be so pedantic) Tram Motor… So I can now coin a new phrase; “To shoot through like a Yarloop tram” (boom boom). Hands up those of you who have been to Yarloop? What only me? You mob should get out more; it’s an amazing place, the absolute epitome of what a “Men’s Shed” should be and caters to all types, even a redundant theater organist has his organ there (and plays it!!!)…. Actually finding Yarloop is the problem.
Anyway more delicate painting to do….


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The atmosphere was electric when the Steam Tram had its first run this morning. Not since the Declaration of Arbroath has there been such excitement!!

I must say that the “proper” radio is just so superior to the Key Fob set up in response times. Not sure how it’s going to go controlling 2 or 3 trams at once. That is going to be an interesting exercise; I’ll practice by balancing a ping pong ball on the tip of a biro held in my mouth while walking on my hands. One thing today’s experiments did show up was that more work on the track is required, the flange groove needs widening in a few places and the open ballast needs reworking as it tends to get under the flanges and give a rough ride.

After making sure everything ran as hoped it was back into the workshop for the finishing touches. The windows had to be “glazed” and I have done this the way these seem pictured with 2 windows open either side. I’m waiting for comment because I have not removed the window frames from the open windows and as they slide behind each other when the windows open the frames have no choice but to go with the glass. Don’t worry someone will spot the flaw and point it out. The brass hand grabs also had to be fitted where the crew climbs aboard. There are still a few minor No 000 paint brush touch ups needed but apart from that it’s complete. Oh one other thing I have to do – add more weight. It’s sort of unbalanced and when running bunker first tends to derail easily so I’ll add some lead ingots behind the skirts. This will be pretty much necessary to give traction when pulling a couple of trailers.

I’m especially pleased with the smoke effects, so much so I expect the neighbours to complain….

The battery seems to run everything well too, after a couple of hours shunting, running around the tramway and smoking (uses a bit of smoke fluid though) the battery voltage was still 12.2V.

As yet there are no fleet numbers. For this I have a good excuse; the brass numbers that have to come from Millicent in SA have not arrived. Yes I know I could have etched my own but at $2.30 for a big sheet of them I’ll not bother.

Not sure what to do next, start work on the first trailer (actually I already have made the Clerestory glazing in cobalt blue) or convert the Electric Trams to Radio Control. Maybe I should have a clean up? Then I won’t be able to find anything but hey rediscovering “lost treasures” is half the fun…

A clean up may be the big GO! I’m really envious of chaps who can work in sterile conditions, the item I seek can be sitting right in front of me and I still can’t find it….

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