Zillertal - something not quite right ???

[Rob s]

Your model pre-dates 1988, that is when they went to the updated drive with skates.
As for the bearings, the axles should be fine unless the gears are worn, it will be the block itself. So if your gears are good, then you need not get the gear set.

hi Garrett
The paper work shows the purchase date,
so it could well of sat on some dealers shelf for a while.
The gears look OK now i have bit the bullet and stripped it right down, but there is a slight ovaling effect on one side of the chassis, but it is well less than 1.5mm so not 'overly' concerned YET.
But will still look out for the bushes and the gear set, for future use
thanks again for your help and info.
Still pritty chuffed that it runs so well for £22 and a couple of hours fettling

 

[KeithT]

Rob,
now go back and check the right hand side valve rodding. If you operate like this you will break off the input rod to the slide valve chest (above the drive piston cylinder) and you will then find no spares are available to replace. On these early locomotive the rodding likes to go overcentre and should not be operated like this.

I had a problem with a broken input rod on a U Class but after advice from someone on GSC managed to source a spare from either Bertram Heyn at http://www.modell-werkstatt.de/ or wahrenburg.de http://www.warenburg.de/
I can't recall which, but it arrived by return of post.
You would need to specify the particular model and which side.

 

[Rob s]

Hi Rob - yes, I read ALL of your post....
OK, the two black squares (where you just have empty slots) are the fixings for a couple of pieces of dummy plastic detail, extra bits of the valve gear or suspension (no idea what they are supposed to do in real life, but they are just static detail on the model) - hopefully you can just about see it on my green Eurovapor U here, it's not very clear but it is the horizontal black piece above the middle driving wheel:

You mentioned that your U was missing several detail parts, I suspect that these are just two more on that list - they may have got lost when a previous owner removed the body for some reason. They serve no function other than cosmetic, so if you don't notice the lack of them then the loco is fine without them. Or, thinking about it, of course this MAY be one of those parts that wasn't actually fitted to all of the different U class variants that LGB made - yours may never have had them in the first place.
Happy to help!
Jon.

Jon - thanks for the pic, as you say it has a few detail bits missing, in fact only
just noticed it is missing the two front ploughs
but it runs real nice now and happily pulls a nice line of 10 bachmann high side gondolers

it even pulls the set of 8 LGB ore cars with tail lamp and pick up wheels (i got from a very nice forum member) around my small shunting yard. R2 outer loop only tried as yet

and looks quite at home in it's designated yard slot

So to you all, Thanks again for your help and info 'Propper Job' to quote one infamous, mechanic ??? we once helped.
and again Still pritty chuffed that it runs so well for £22 and a couple of hours fettling

 

[Spule 4]

Your model pre-dates 1988, that is when they went to the updated drive with skates.
As for the bearings, the axles should be fine unless the gears are worn, it will be the block itself. So if your gears are good, then you need not get the gear set.

hi Garrett
The paper work shows the purchase date,
so it could well of sat on some dealers shelf for a while.
The gears look OK now i have bit the bullet and stripped it right down, but there is a slight ovaling effect on one side of the chassis, but it is well less than 1.5mm so not 'overly' concerned YET.
But will still look out for the bushes and the gear set, for future use
thanks again for your help and info.
Still pritty chuffed that it runs so well for £22 and a couple of hours fettling

Very well the case, I got a 1982 vintage Zillertal 3007 new in an un-opened box...in 2005. There are a few other old models that I have that have the sales slips (the oldest is '78) which just ads to the history.

If the holes are oval, the Igus fix is the way to go, simple enough to do and a better bearing surface than stock.

Good score for around $35 US!:callme: