A Ballerina's Face Lift

Zerogee said:
That really is an astonishingly good job, Mike! The only thing that gives it away at a casual glance is the lack of connecting rods to the rear two wheelsets - have you got any plans to fit anything there?

Jon.
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Lol, yeah that's been a trouble spot, I have made the linkage, and it has a hinge but it binds on my tight radius turns so it's been left off, I will see if I can put it back on for a few photos.
 
Pic as promised, As Jon said real height 36.5 m(12' in old money) models 2-6-2 NQ, scale 11'9", 2-10-2 LGB 12'6" (that's 156mm & 170mm)
DSC_0012.JPG
That's rail height to mesh cover over cab roof vent. the grey thing is a scale ruler I made from card but it's greyed out the markings. and before anyone says, I really must fill in that speaker in the bunker:oops:
 
dunnyrail said:
Did not like to mention that Jon!
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Lol, please mention as much as you can. I only had photos to go off of, and sometimes when I look at it certain angles don't quite look right and I can't nail it down. For example, the boiler hight to the tops of the water tanks is only a quess, and so is the space under the chassis where the two air tanks are in the front above the front wheels. I do have plans to build another but that one will take alot more work. I will have to build the entire frame from scratch since I cannot find another as a replacement part. So thanks for the help. That's what drew me to this post, I love to see Newqida kit bash stuff, I have 5 locos and plenty of their rolling stock lol.
 
Fezwig said:
Pic as promised, As Jon said real height 36.5 m(12' in old money) models 2-6-2 NQ, scale 11'9", 2-10-2 LGB 12'6" (that's 156mm & 170mm)
View attachment 230551
That's rail height to mesh cover over cab roof vent. the grey thing is a scale ruler I made from card but it's greyed out the markings. and before anyone says, I really must fill in that speaker in the bunker:oops:
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Wow, that's awsome, that's the photo I needed thank you. If you get a chance, could you run a ruler around the water tanks for me as far as height from frame/chassis line and rail? I don't know if my heights are correct.
 
Mike Whitcomb said:
Wow, that's awsome, that's the photo I needed thank you. If you get a chance, could you run a ruler around the water tanks for me as far as height from frame/chassis line and rail? I don't know if my heights are correct.
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Rail to base of cab/tank 6.2mm rail to tank over cylinders 7.8mm rail to top of tank 11.9mm. but don't worry to much as it looks right and of course LGB measurements are "flexible"!DSC_0013.JPG

DSC_0014.JPG
Hope that helps
 
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Here are pics of the swivel drive system, and the missing linkage which will need to modified to handle my small radius. The swivel part of drive system has two nylon rollers that ride on the bottom of the chassis like the LGB 20811.
 
Looks good, Mike - even better with the coupling rod in place - is there enough flex in the rods that you could get away with simply enlongating the hole where they attach to the middle driver, or would that not give you enough movement?

I'll have to take a look at one of my 2-10-2s to check just how LGB have done it!

For another cut-price Harz loco that is, in my opinion, more than "good enough" even though it's not an exact model, here's the thread on the scratchbuilt 5906 Mallet that I acquired on evilBay (and then repaired after some serious damage in transit) - worked out at less than a tenth of the price of a KISS one....
https://www.gscalecentral.net/threads/scratchbuilt-5906-harz-mallet.307674/

Jon.
 
Zerogee said:
Looks good, Mike - even better with the coupling rod in place - is there enough flex in the rods that you could get away with simply enlongating the hole where they attach to the middle driver, or would that not give you enough movement?

I'll have to take a look at one of my 2-10-2s to check just how LGB have done it!

For another cut-price Harz loco that is, in my opinion, more than "good enough" even though it's not an exact model, here's the thread on the scratchbuilt 5906 Mallet that I acquired on evilBay (and then repaired after some serious damage in transit) - worked out at less than a tenth of the price of a KISS one....
https://www.gscalecentral.net/threads/scratchbuilt-5906-harz-mallet.307674/

Jon.
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I did modify the linkage and added an elongated end to it, the lgb one is actually hinged and elongated according to the parts diagram. Taking on that task will have to wait until I start the second build. It looks like my boiler height might be off but I can't get an accurate measurement from any pics. Top of rail to top of boiler. I will check out that post it looks good. Projects like that are the best.
 
Mike, Here's the view of the under side of the LGB version and the side rods where the two articulate. DSC_0017.JPG

DSC_0018.JPG
 
Mike Whitcomb said:
If I only had these photos when I started, lol. These are great thank you. How far have you got on the ballerina?
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At last, got chance to finish off the Head lamp today
DSC_0015.JPG
A bit of rocket launcher tube, a plasticard disc araldited to a bit of cooper lighting wire and the original head light lens.
DSC_0019.JPG
just needs a bit of black paint to tidy up
 
Fezwig said:
At last, got chance to finish off the Head lamp today
View attachment 230586
A bit of rocket launcher tube, a plasticard disc araldited to a bit of cooper lighting wire and the original head light lens.
View attachment 230587
just needs a bit of black paint to tidy up
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That headlamp looks great, just like the real one. Have you done anything with the RC unit yet. The ones that I have seen replaced make a world of difference, they make it much more smooth at lower speeds like the LGB'S, and with the original motor. When I get the money I'm going to get a Deltang system, they are easy and affordable for what I need. Thanks for sharing your work, it gives me ideas on what I could do with my 4 newqida locos, lol.
 
Zerogee said:
Some very clever engineering there, and you really don't notice it when the loco is running.....

Jon.
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Ahh, looks like it's 2 separate linkages on the last 3 wheels, that makes sense. It doesn't look like it hinges just enough play on the mounting post on the 2nd to last wheel to allow it to swivel and the elongated slot let's it extend and contract on the turns.
 
Mike Whitcomb said:
Ahh, looks like it's 2 separate linkages on the last 3 wheels, that makes sense. It doesn't look like it hinges just enough play on the mounting post on the 2nd to last wheel to allow it to swivel and the elongated slot let's it extend and contract on the turns.
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Yes mate, that's right, 4 rods per side with a elongated hole at the articulated point.

Still using the NQ rc, as it tests my driving skills!! But will fit rc and batteries to the Kamel and Harzbulle first once I've decided what system to use.
Pete
 
The two drive units on the LGB model are permanently linked with a flexible (UJ) joint beween them. This stops the side rods getting out of sequence despite the elongated holes. Without this, I suspect that the rods will lock up.
 
stockers said:
The two drive units on the LGB model are permanently linked with a flexible (UJ) joint beween them. This stops the side rods getting out of sequence despite the elongated holes. Without this, I suspect that the rods will lock up.
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Hmmm, good point, Alan..... might be worth trying to link the two motor shafts in the NQ gearboxes via a model-boat-propshaft UJ or something similar.... but probably a LOT of work!

Jon.
 
Mike, whilst I think on, the driving wheel size on the NQ 2-6-2 is 33mm and the LGB 2-10-2 45mm, so NQ is under size, LGB is over size!!! both are 1000mm in real life:shake: the pony trucks on both are the same size and correct for both models and prototypes!
 
Fezwig said:
Mike, whilst I think on, the driving wheel size on the NQ 2-6-2 is 33mm and the LGB 2-10-2 45mm, so NQ is under size, LGB is over size!!! both are 1000mm in real life:shake: the pony trucks on both are the same size and correct for both models and prototypes!
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Yes I did notice that, not much I could do without changing motors for gear alignment with the larger wheels, plus there about $25 per axle, there goes my budget lol!
 
Mike Whitcomb said:
Yes I did notice that, not much I could do without changing motors for gear alignment with the larger wheels, plus there about $25 per axle, there goes my budget lol!
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Just thought as it dose affect the overall height, I am hoping to change the wheels on mine and get shut of the Chinese novelty wobbly ones!
 
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