A Deltang-ed Piko Railbus in Ruritania

whatlep

whatlep

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Ruritanian Railways is primarily a DCC system, but we have a soft spot for battery-powered r/c kit too, especially on rainy days as we`re having in the UK this summer and a quick 10-minute "blast" is all that`s likely. Ruritania has standardised on Deltang receivers (Rx65 variety for 3 amp capability) using that company`s "Selecta" system. Both the liine`s existing r/c vehicles have been converted to these receivers, controlled from a single Tx22 transmitter.

This week one of Prince Rudolf`s favourite "toys", the Piko railbus, has been converted from DCC to Deltang control. It`s an ideal candidate: it looks good at low speed, so a 12 volt Li-ion battery is adequate, it has LED lights for low current consumption and its track pickup system accumulates grot a little too easily to make DCC as reliable as is customary. The really nice bit is that the railbus` existing analogue circuit board can be restored in place and the receiver simply piggy-backed on top. THe railbus` original track power wires are simply insulated and tucked out of the way: the Rx65 provides the input power.

Photos show the before & after look of the railbus` guts. Suffice it to say that the conversion works beautifully, with the directional & interior lighting fully operational too. Prince Rudolf is reported as "chuffed" (or the regal equivalent). More photos and a short video will be available on Ruritanian Railways` Facebook site. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Ruritanian-Railways/422439611223628
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Great looking conversion - sounds like the ideal candidate. I've not experienced the railbus mechanism but my Piko block 0-6-0 loco is a joy to drive through an Rx65 and Tx22 combo.

Rik
 
Looking good, Peter - where does the battery go?

By the way, it's great to see you posting again - the communications silence from Ruritania has continued for too long, we were fearing a military coup and/or Peoples' Revolution...... ;)

Jon.
 
Hi Jon

The battery goes into the passenger compartment on mine, simply as there's nowhere else to put it. There are a couple of photos on the Facebook link in my original post. You might be able to get batteries along the removable roof, but only if you don't have lights fitted as I do.

Prince Rudolf is in excellent health and still worshipped by the peasant workers of all Ruritania - at least according to last week's Zenda Times.

Zerogee said:
Looking good, Peter - where does the battery go?

By the way, it's great to see you posting again - the communications silence from Ruritania has continued for too long, we were fearing a military coup and/or Peoples' Revolution...... ;)

Jon.
Click to expand...
 
Excellent Rudolph........ Sorry.... Peter.
A nice conversion.. The plebs of Ruritania will enjoy travelling in their newly upgraded conveyance.

I too am thinking of more battery RC.

A comparable candidate for doing this, for my US orientated line, would be a streetcar..... But they are a real b****r to do anything to upgrade etc.

The weather looks really dubious for this coming Sunday, our open day, so may have to cancel as the inclines on the layout mean that rain etc causes probs let alone a lot of pepos having to scuttle inside all the time, but if I had more RC, in the more weatherproof locos, the weather would have to be dreadful to stop a little tootling around the lines while it persists down.
 
Nicely done Whatlep.
I have a question please.
What version of the Rx65b did you get?
Was it the bare bones version or did it have some wiring added?
If bare bones how did you go soldering wires to the pcb?
 
Radio Ruritania rules....
 
Tony Walsham said:
Nicely done Whatlep.
I have a question please.
What version of the Rx65b did you get?
Was it the bare bones version or did it have some wiring added?
If bare bones how did you go soldering wires to the pcb?
Click to expand...

Thanks Tony. I used an Rx65b-22-w. That's the version fitted for Selecta control (multiple receivers from one transmitter) and with short wires fitted for the motor and battery connections. As you'll be aware, there are also versions with a factory-fitted screw terminal block for those 4 connections (too high for the space I had available), plus a bare board option to which you can solder. My soldering skills are legendary for their ham-fistedness, plus there seemed to be a high probability of frying something expensive by leaving the iron on the board too long. So it was the old standby of using factory-fitted wires and making a connection using those.
 
You know,

you've been Deltango'ed Tigger....
 
I was just wondering how users, or potential users have handled the soldering on the bare bones version.
DT programs the Rx65b a certain way for me and sends them to me bare bones. I never use the Selecta feature. Would rather have the channel for sound trigger functions.
At the moment I value add by putting on the wires for a simplified version with F & R lights and 1 x sound trigger.
There is also a version I have with screw terminals both ends and header pins on the sides into which a small 4 x function pcb plugs.
They are a fantastic piece of kit with enormous flexibility.
However some degree of care is needed when soldering them. Very wise to order them with wiring in place.
 
Tony Walsham said:
I was just wondering how users, or potential users have handled the soldering on the bare bones version.
Click to expand...
Hi Tony
Sorry, wandering a bit off the original topic here, but just to answer your question. I bought an iron with a pointed tip and I found I could solder to the pads on the Deltang board provided I was in and out quickly with the iron. I tin the pad and the wire first, then put them together and touch them with the tinned tip of the iron and Bingo!

I too tend to buy the wired versions, even though I'm now comfortable with soldering on to the pads. Just saves a bit of hassle. But I also use the other pads for directional lighting, sound triggers and for the reed switch trigger on the board I've enabled auto-shuttle. I find the rx65b to be a bit easier to solder to as it is larger than his earlier boards and the pads are slightly bigger and further apart.

As you say, a tremendous bit of kit - and I see he's now added a feature enabling you to transfer control from one transmitter to another without rebinding. I think you can even do it in transit, but not yet investigated that.

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
I tin the pad and the wire first, then put them together and touch them with the tinned tip of the iron and Bingo!
Click to expand...
Exactly as I would teach someone to solder.

I would add that you should count to 5, and if your solder hasn't flowed in the joint, take the tip of the iron off the joint.

Even better if you can do it in 3 secs....
 
While we seem to have veered off onto the subject of soldering irons or soldering guns, I have had a few over my many years. To date, the one I like the most is the small butane version. Not the slim one but the slightly fatter one. It's completely portable, which helps greatly in the garden. That said, I cannot seem to be completely satisfied with my electric versions. Either they are too clumsy or they don't always heat up the way they should. The small set screws that hold the tip in place loosen and after too many tightenings, become useless themselves.

I have often thought of a resistance soldering kit but don't want to lay out a couple hundred dollars.
 
maybe we need a topic about soldering, as there's lots of electronics guys and radio hams in here

wander over, nice railbus btw
 
Tony Walsham said:
Yes, wander off we have.
My fault, I apologise.
Click to expand...

No apologies required. I find it reassuring to read that I've done the right thing by not attempting to solder connections!

Tony - I'm interested in your comment about adding value by soldering wires for lights. My understanding of the Rx65 is that it only copes with 3.5 volts on the P1/P2 outputs, which sounds low even for LGB 5 volt bulbs - and would the 150mA draw for the usual three headlights be OK? On the railbus, I was pleased to find I could duck the issue by using the model's existing analogue board, but that won't necessarily be possible on other models I'm thinking of r/c-ing.
 
whatlep said:
SNIP

Tony - I'm interested in your comment about adding value by soldering wires for lights. My understanding of the Rx65 is that it only copes with 3.5 volts on the P1/P2 outputs, which sounds low even for LGB 5 volt bulbs - and would the 150mA draw for the usual three headlights be OK? On the railbus, I was pleased to find I could duck the issue by using the model's existing analogue board, but that won't necessarily be possible on other models I'm thinking of r/c-ing.
Click to expand...
Cannot help you with opinions of what Pins 1 & 2 can handle.
I use P3, P4, P5, & P6 to control the bases of 4 Open collector transistors on a separate little pcb. This enables me to trigger four extra functions on regular (non DCC) sound systems.
 
Nice, neat railbus conversion..

<Thread-drift>
Can we have a 'Deltang' thread, by those who know, please??
I would especially be interested in additions for driving extra functions, be it sound(s) or servos for animation effects.
</Thread-drift>
 
Hi All, funny coincidence to find this, I have just come in from fitting mine too. I have used Tony's adapted version with the wires which suits my skills. I have actually isolated the exisiting electronics and gone straight to the motor, leaving the lights for another day. Maybe I should have done the same as Peter!

I have put the batteries along the removable roof and unless you pick the model up above your head they are invisible.

BTW If anyone does this and removes the finned skates, you will find you need to return them or find another method to self-centre the wheel sets.

Ian
 
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