Another Playmobil Diesel Transformation. This time a Baby Kamel.

Sarah Winfield said:
I have copied out these details. However, on page 14 there are 3 problems listed. Unfortunately, the on the list of causes half of the wording doesn't show. Could you please quote the full probable causes wording please? Thank you again.
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It's continued on the left hand side of page 15. It had me fooled at first; not Playmobil at its brightest and most customer friendly!
 
Sarah Winfield said:
I have copied out these details. However, on page 14 there are 3 problems listed. Unfortunately, the on the list of causes half of the wording doesn't show. Could you please quote the full probable causes wording please? Thank you again.
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Well, I have followed the instructions but still my locomotive won't move. This has been the story of my life. If I ever commit suicide the reason given will be a misadventure.

It just seems to me that some people are destined to spend their life being disappointed.
 
What else might it be, please?

I seem to have done everything but still, I can't get my locomotive to move.

Members' thoughts would be appreciated, please.

Thank you,

Sarah Winfield
 
Sarah Winfield said:
What else might it be, please?

I seem to have done everything but still, I can't get my locomotive to move.

Members' thoughts would be appreciated, please.

Thank you,

Sarah Winfield
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I suppose it might be the battery in the controller. I'm not convinced but have bought 2 new ones anyway
 
From my experience of PM Trains they can be quite temperamental to low battery state. Even though you may be getting noises from the loco there may just not be enough power in the loco battery to get it moving.
 
T
dunnyrail said:
From my experience of PM Trains they can be quite temperamental to low battery state. Even though you may be getting noises from the loco there may just not be enough power in the loco battery to get it moving.
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Thank you. I'm just not good at handling situations I'm not in control of. Is there a way of telling whether a battery is still functionable. I understand it can register a voltage but in fact have no power, (Elementary my dear wattage)
 
Do you have one of those battery tester? I was testing a PM train the other day Nd the motor would not move with 3 of the 4 batteries only reading around 1v rather than 1.5. The loco made receiving signal noises but refused to move till new batteries fitted to both Transmitter and Reciever. These are less than a £5 form Amazon. I have had a similar beast for years now and would not be without it.

Nartel® LED Digital Battery Tester​

 
Sarah Winfield said:
A

All in hand with PhilP. However, I now have another problem. With both the locomotive and controller switched on and everything working, lights, horn, and engine sound my locomotive doesn't move. I, unfortunately, don't have any instructions but seem to think I read somewhere about syncing the controller to the locomotive. Will you help also, please? Thank you
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If the sounds and lights work when pressing the controller, then the Tx / Rx must be linked, so syncing is not the issue, batteries must be in correctly, I assume there is enough power in them, so can you hear the motor turn.
The other thing could be dirty contacts in the Tx.
 
Sarah, do you possess a meter already?

The little PP3 batteries, are a very small 'bucket' to hold charge..
Measure the voltage of the transmitter battery (if you can do it with the transmitter switched on, so much the better) if it is less than 8V (just the battery) or perhaps 7.5V if measured in the transmitter (switched on) then it is probably too low.

You say you are running the train with one less battery? - Presumably to slow it down a little?
If so, give the batteries you are using a charge. Leave them for a couple of hours (they will be warm) and charge them again.
Then try them in your loco.. It could be that by running with one less battery, you are running into low voltage issues sooner.

PhilP
 
Thank you for your replies.

I did have a battery tester which has unfortunately gone AWOL. I thought it only measured volts which I understand is not a measure of power. Anyway, I'll invest in a new one.

In the locomotive I am using rechargeable batteries 1.2v 2400mAh and a PP3 in the controller. I have ordered a couple of new PP3's and always try to keep the rechargeable batteries topped up.

I'll wait delivery of my new batteries and hope that solves my problem.

Sorry to be such a nuisance.
 
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Your not a nuisance, you'll probably find someone else out there has a similar question and you've just helped them get the answer.

I always tell graduates and trainees the only daft question is the one you didn't ask.
 
If the sounds don't turn on and off with the controller buttons, then it needs to be synced by pressing the appropriate buttons on the loco and controller(however the buttons on that controller can have a tendency to get stuck and stop functioning until the little rubber buttons are wiggled sufficiently). If the controller light does not come on, then the battery connection in the controller is the problem; in that case it could be that battery leakage interferes with the connection so that the contacts need to be cleaned, or the contact is bent to not receive a connection, or the battery is the problem . A likely problem is a low battery in either the controller or the loco. Other possibilities include a bad controller (i.e. a problem with the potentiometer of the speed knob), and bad gears in the loco(unlikely since there are two motors with their own gears in that loco).
 
Sarah Winfield said:
Thank you for your replies.

I did have a battery tester which has unfortunately gone AWOL. I thought it only measured volts which I understand is not a measure of power. Anyway, I'll invest in a new one.

In the locomotive I am using rechargeable batteries 1.2v 2400mAh and a PP3 in the controller. I have ordered a couple of new PP3's and always try to keep the rechargeable batteries topped up.

I'll wait delivery of my new batteries and hope that solves my problem.

Sorry to be such a nuisance.
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Yes indeed while Amps are very relevant, I find that a battery in the 1.0v range each will be an issue for getting the PM diesel receiver to function correctly. I have a similar problem with my Crest Radio Transmitters that will be an issue with 2 of the 3 batteries only reading 1.0v.
 
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