Coupling Types

Wholeheartedly agree, James - while knuckles are probably fine, they are only "realistic" if you're modelling US prototype lines, or those using US-style equipment. LGB type hook and loop simply work, and usually work well.
If you want something that retains the practicality of the standard hook and loop but looks a little bit less visually obtrusive, consider having a look at the S-Kuplix.... I've not personally tried them, but am quite tempted to get a couple of packs and give them a go.

Jon.
 
Having read what has been said some will agree with me some not.

But I have experience of 3 different Railways (2 being mine) that needed Reliable Couplings that worked with near 100% reliability. In that you cannot beat LGB Hook and Loop, and I mean LGB because I have used other makes on bought stock and now swop them out for genuine LGB ones for reliability.

I also have hook at each end of all pulled vehicles but no hook only loop on Locomotives. Thie Locomotive ones being lowered with a 20 or 30 thou of Plasticard slipped under the Coupling with a screw hole to facilitate this.

You will find no other more reliable consistent, though not very pretty admitted means of G Scale Coupling without buckets load of work and expence.
 
David1226 said:
I guess this would be an opportune time to introduce newer members to an article I wrote many years ago on modifying LGB couplings to magnetic operation.

MODIFYING STANDARD LGB COUPLINGS.pdf

View attachment 233795

David[/QUO
David I have always admired your Spratt n Winkle conversions, I did indeed consider it when you first spoke about it, I cant remember where. Having used them in 00 I found them to be just the ticket and that was before the delayed modification was introduced.

However for me they fail the "not a lot of work to modify all my stock" test. Plus I would need to Mod EVERY COUPLING to be able to use on Return Loops etc with a hook at each end.

Sorry I do not wish to decry Davids system which is very good, but for me it just was not the way to go, specially when so much of what I used to do involved visits to other lines with exclusively LGB Couplings.
Click to expand...
 
PhilP said:
Now, do they match (for height) 'by chance'?
OR, Have you 'fettled' each to match that particular make of stock??
Click to expand...

Most manufacturers work to a common coupling height standard, or so I have been led to believe. Most "G" scale knuckle (yep I know Bachmann Spectrum/AMS are an exception but then they are 1:20.3 scale, not "G" scale) and hook/loop fall into one height group and those from the 16 mm world, chopper and centre buffer/chain the other. A slight mod may have been made at one end of the gon' to accommodate this. Other short wheelbase 4 wheel wagons are available. Max
 
When I ran North American stock on the CFR many years back I fitted LGB knuckle couplers to all my stock wether it be LGB, Aristocraft, USA Trains, Delton, Bachmann and others. Most of the time fitting was a straight swap and only occasionally did I have to do any modifications.
When I ran European stock I stuck to the LGB hook and loop couplers, they gave very reliable service.
These days I use three link chain on all the stock that I run.
 
LGB hook and loop for me (with hooks on all couplings). I want something that is reliable and effective (and also cheap). I know they look unrealistic but prefer that to something which will fail over my undulating trackwork. I have considered changing them for something more prototypical but so far haven't found anything which will be as effective and that I can afford (I have fifteen locos and 65 items of stock to re-equip).

Interested though in David's mod above.

Rik
 
ge_rik said:
LGB hook and loop for me (with hooks on all couplings). I want something that is reliable and effective (and also cheap). I know they look unrealistic but prefer that to something which will fail over my undulating trackwork. I have considered changing them for something more prototypical but so far haven't found anything which will be as effective and that I can afford (I have fifteen locos and 65 items of stock to re-equip).

Interested though in David's mod above.

Rik
Click to expand...

One thing that hasn't been mentioned is how reliably you can propel stock with the LGB hook and loop coupling. The bar provides a brilliant bearing surface that transmits the loads up the train without strain or locking.

Some couple and uncouple them automatically, but I have not done much with that.

James
 
Last edited:
James Day said:
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is how reliably you can propel stock with the LGB hook and loop coupling. The bar provides a brilliant bearing surface that transmits the loads up the train without strain or locking.

Some couple and uncouple them automatically, but I have not done much with that.

James
Click to expand...
Yes not mentioned re propelling, that is another of my reliability tests ticked.

I sort of hanker for a reliable Auto Uncoupling System but one that does not include any unwanted uncoupling. This suggests an Auto Operation of the LGB ones, but for me with all my stock having Hooks except Locomotives that makes an awful lot of electrical wiring work (that also means 2 of the units at each uncoupling location 10560 / 1056) that at times has not proved to be reliable. Plus of course a massive cost at around £30 each one.

So for uncoupling I use a Bone Handled Knife. Though a pressy thing on each Coupling a little like the Playmobil System would work very well. But again an awful lot of work to fit all my stock out.
 
dunnyrail said:
Yes not mentioned re propelling, that is another of my reliability tests ticked.

I sort of hanker for a reliable Auto Uncoupling System but one that does not include any unwanted uncoupling. This suggests an Auto Operation of the LGB ones, but for me with all my stock having Hooks except Locomotives that makes an awful lot of electrical wiring work (that also means 2 of the units at each uncoupling location 10560 / 1056) that at times has not proved to be reliable. Plus of course a massive cost at around £30 each one.

So for uncoupling I use a Bone Handled Knife. Though a pressy thing on each Coupling a little like the Playmobil System would work very well. But again an awful lot of work to fit all my stock out.
Click to expand...

I agree there. The uncoupling thing is the issue. I have found doing it manually by stoking the hooks down with a lolly stick or small screwdriver works really well. So well in fact that I am not planning to persue any other options.

PS: I love the PM button too. If you consider that the original PM version of the coupling came only a year after LGB introduced it, that was quite an advance.

Pity LGB never adopted it, but I guess it fits in more with the concept of playing rather than realism that LGB were keen to move towards.
 
Last edited:
Jimmy, a couple more comments from experience.

- Do use a height gauge and check each item of stock when you fit/modify a coupling. I have an old Bachmann screwed to a block of wood with slots that fit over the railhead.
- Bachmann truck-mounted knuckles are low enough and the pins are loose enough that a dead leaf will pop the pin and uncouple it.

Being in the USA I have knuckles on my big trains (some small stuff is LGB or link-and-pin.) My 1:20.3 coaches use Accucraft 1/32nd couplers, as they are the correct size for 3/4 couplers on EBT stock. The rest use Accucraft 1:20.3. Both Accucraft types will couple, though not automatically, and the Accucraft 1:20.3 will connect to Aristocraft and Bachmann knuckles.
 
Hi Jimmy,
Although some G Scale modellers may disagree, based upon experience, wherever possible, I tend to prefer Kaydee "knuckle" couplers. Robust, reliable, easy to retrofit and to operate, they suit all my needs.
Graham.
 
In Garden Railways Magazine , February and April 2018 issues, there is a detailed overview of all couplers and the interface issues between them.

I have Bachmann couplers on all my Bachmann hardware and hook and loop everywhere else (USA Trains , LGB , Piko).
 
I have about 40 hook and loop couplings and about 60 Bachman knuckle couplers if any one is interested PM with an offer, I have removed them and fitted Kadees. I won't be needing them any more
 
Graham North said:
wherever possible, I tend to prefer Kaydee "knuckle" couplers. Robust, reliable, easy to retrofit and to operate, they suit all my needs. Graham.
Click to expand...

Modelling, nominally 1:20.3 scale, I find Kadee are very handy when having to "standardize" knuckle coupling heights and operation when adapting locos and stock from different source "scales" and coupling conventions, or even those lacking a functioning coupler altogether. E.g. Bachmann's "Annie" 4-6-0 and USA Trains "work trains" series cars - so as to operate and couple together and with other stock.

Kadee offer a comprehensive range of full solutions and mod's that cover just about all of the coupling glitches that most of us will encounter in this hobby. That is if you are using knuckles. Take time to look at their site pages sometime, here's one for starters - https://kadee.com/conv/convpl.htm

Kadee's products also work very well in conjunction with other manufacturers standard knuckle fitments, like Accucaft (AMS) Bachmann, (Spectrum) and so on. Their products cover a whole host of scales, including the smaller scales lumped under the banner "G". So, you don't even have to refit wholesale throughout your fleet with their products. Only when you come across those annoying mismatches and omissions. Max
 
Last edited:
Good morning...
In spite of "Couplers" being a generally, a highly debateable subject, which no type of coupler group will ever win; I'll only point out, that "Standardizing" on one standard coupler, rather than trying to mix, and match, is highly desirable, especially in the area of "OPERATIONS".
Operations, as in operating a model railroad, as a model of a RAILROAD, not as a just a "Roundy-Roundy" style, display track.
You notice that I am not mentioning any specific coupler, manufacturer, or type. To do so would only bring out the worst in everybody...!!
I made my choice, over 20 years ago, before I had too many cars to convert, and have always been glad I did.
Fr.Fred
 
"I just run trains"...good for you...and I'm happy that you appear to be reasonably happy, contented, well nourished, and showing lack of frustration !!
Ben T.Conrod Jr.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top